Engine/CIS preservation?

[june82000]

Hello, I have a 1974 2.7L engine currently out of the car and has been for almost 2 years. It was running when pulled. I don't have a timeline when it will be in use again but I think probably at least another year. I am assuming it does not have any fuel stabilizer in the system so whatever fuel was in it at the time is still in the engine. What's the best way to deal with this in order to introduce fresh fuel/stabilizer into the system without having to reinstall into the car?

[Flat6pac]

Break the connections all the way to the injectors and let it drain out.
The pin in the fuel distributor is probably already frozen
Bruce

[Dodge Man]

Be sure to pull the plugs and fill the cylinders with ATF or some sort of cylinder lube. ATF(auto trans fluid) is an old school used motor broker trick for long term storage. Pistons are aluminum & rings are steel (galvanic corrosion) so do something to prevent the rings from drying out & corroding to prevent sticking on the pistons or jugs. Keep it lubed and pull the plugs & rotate it on a regular basis especially in humid climates. CIS parts can be rebuilt by CIS FlowTech for a lot less than a seized motor or stuck rings. Your plan for Fuel system storage additives make sense. Get a running old CIS pump that has low pressure for scrap and pump fluid thru the CIS but clean out the cylinders, re-lube & rotate after. I sold a 76-79 WUR as a clean core that had been in indoor storage for over 10 years and it Plugged & Played(worked properly) on a 78 SC. Keeping things out of the weather is key. Best of luck.

[june82000]

Originally Posted by Dodge Man

Get a running old CIS pump that has low pressure for scrap and pump fluid thru the CIS but clean out the cylinders, re-lube & rotate after.

Dodge Man - With the injectors removed, will fluid run though this type of CIS system simply by applying positive pressure or is power (and/or) system manipulation required? Also, do you know if there is there a minimum amount of pressure required?

[june82000]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Break the connections all the way to the injectors and let it drain out.
The pin in the fuel distributor is probably already frozen
Bruce

Flat6 - I noticed you're near Rocky Mt. I just bought a couple of BMWs from a guy in Spring Hope...

[boyt911sc]

If your engine still has the complete fuel lines connections (delivery & return lines) in place, all you need is a fuel supply to the FD. You would need a small gasoline supply tank (1 gallon) and a good FP that delivers sufficient fuel pressure greater than the system pressure.

Connect the FP between the fuel tank and FD. Install or connect the fuel return line to the fuel tank. You would need a 12-volt power supply to activate the FP during the purging of the system. If you have a CIS pressure gauge, I would suggest to install it to monitor how much pressure is generated by the FP. Run the FP with fresh fuel with gas stabilizer for at least 3 mins. to 5 mins. and stop. This is a good time to inspect if the FD plunger is free and not binding. Have all six (6) fuel injectors pulled out during purging.

Lubricate the P & C if you are storing the engine for an extended period of time. Don't forget to install the spark plugs back.

Tony

[june82000]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

If your engine still has the complete fuel lines connections (delivery & return lines) in place, all you need is a fuel supply to the FD. You would need a small gasoline supply tank (1 gallon) ........... if you are storing the engine for an extended period of time. Don't forget to install the spark plugs back.

Tony

Thank you Tony - that's what I was envisioning, just thought it would be a good idea to ask also.