Torque settings on lug nuts?

[pwd72s]

Originally posted by Scott Chytil
From the '84-'89 factory manuals:

Page: 44-6

Removing and Installing Wheels on Car

1. Use special tool P 300 in perfect condition. (everyone has one, right?)... Never use impact tools.

2) Lubricate threads and nut contact base with Optimoly TA.

3) Always tighten nuts to specified torque of 130 Nm (94 ftlb).

I could not find a similar reference to Optimoly in the earlier manuals. All torque specs were for 94 ft/lbs though.

Scott

Scott, actually I do have the P-300 socket. It's aluminum lined, steel outer. IMHO, other aftermarket sockets are better. My current favorite is the all aluminum one sold by stoddard, but the nylon lined ones work well too.

[Jim T]

This is the only list where a question like "what torque should I use on the lug nuts" cannot be answered in less than 3 pages and a couple of dozen posts!

[GSpreeman]

Last week my fiance asked me if I was "obsessing" over the "new" Porsche. I snapped back, "Yes! Perhaps it's time for an intervention."

She just starred at me confused when I told her that I posted a question on tightening the lug nuts on my car and had 40 some responses.

Thanks everybody for the responses. I successfully removed the road wheels, adjusted the parking brakes, removed the wheel centers for painting (I'll redo in black if they look sucky), cleaned the wheels, and repainted the centers. Oh yeah, then I put the tires back on and tightened the lug nuts using my new Napa Autoparts torque wrench...to 94lbs.

[pwd72s]

LUVIT! Keep working on your intended...she'll either come around or not. But keep working, okay?

[Dana_Drury]

Yes but did you lubricate them before tightening the lug nuts?

[car911]

Just another question to add to the debate.

If we are meant to torque the lug nuts, why does Porsche include only a regular lug wrench in their tool kits? I wonder if they expect me to use the "body weight" method of torquing the nuts?

Now, I weight about 150 lbs. The lug wrench in my tool kit is about 18 inches long. So, if I stand on the end of the wrench, how much torque do I exert on the nut? If I bounce on it just a bit, how can I calculate the additional torque on the nut ...

[Dana_Drury]

Thats extremely easy to answer... its the same reason they include a space-saver spare in their cars.... Its just to use in an emergency....

[HarryD]

Originally posted by car911
Just another question to add to the debate.



Now, I weight about 150 lbs. The lug wrench in my tool kit is about 18 inches long. So, if I stand on the end of the wrench, how much torque do I exert on the nut? If I bounce on it just a bit, how can I calculate the additional torque on the nut ...

OK let's see.

150 lbs * 1.5 ft = 225 ft-lbs.

To get 95 ft-lbs, put a mark on your wrench at 7.6 inches and stand there.

See, no bouncing necessary.

[n8marx]

Alright, I've been following this thread for a while now. This evening I had an interesting experience that changed my opinion on the anti-sieze vs. no anti-sieze argument.

The last time I had my wheels off I put them back on dry and torqued to 94 ft-lbs. This evening I attempted to remove them to inspect the brake pads and twisted the hex shape right off of the lug nut on 3 nuts! Twisted it off right at the base! The darn things fused to my wheel! Let me tell you what a gawd-awful feeling you get in the pit of your stomach when looking at a nut you've just twisted off and then you contemplate drilling and chiseling it out of your perfect Fuchs wheel. I am an anti-sieze user from this day forward!

Luckily I found another thread where John Walker gave his recommendation for removing the offending nuts. 3/4" hole saw slipped over the stud and drill away the nut very carefully. Much better method than the "drill and chisel method" I was going to try. Will be performaing this surgery tomorrow AM.