Another Rennshift thread.

[Jezza]

So, the weather has finally broke and I've decided to install my Rennshift that I bought 2 mos ago from our host. I ripped everything out, as it seemed like a simple enough job. Once I installed it, everything worked except that I couldnt engage 2nd. Upon reading some other threads, there seems to be a likelihood that I may have to tweak some things back at the coupler. So I did a very minor adjustment at the collar, as I read in one of the help threads. Now I keep losing the bushing from the cup under the shifter. It just pops out when I dry shift in the garage into 2nd. I fixed it twice, then took it out and noticed that the Rennshift bushing isn't sitting in the cup nearly as far as the stock shifter did (by like 3/4 inch). I know I'm doing something stupid here, any thoughts? I am putting it in a 1980 SC. Does it come set up for a different trans?

Take a look at the pic below, you will see what I mean.


Thanks for any input. I have all day tomorrow to play with it.

[JWest]

It appears your old shifter had a short shift installed - the bushing is extended down further than original. Look for a spacer under the shifter (perimeter of the base) or a small two-hole spacer on top of the shift rod bushing bracket.

The RennShift used to use a similar spacer, but the current version (that you have) drops right in place of the original shifter.

[Jezza]

That totally makes sense. That spacer is what creates the gap that I was wrestling with and beyond that, it is an absolute ***** to line up. Oh man, I'm going to have this thing in in no time tomorrow. Thanks for the quick reply James, you're the man!

Is this the culprit of which you speak?

[JWest]

Originally Posted by Jezza

Is this the culprit of which you speak?

That's it! Make sure you move the shift rod bracket back on top of the tunnel - you'll see a relief cut in the base of the RennShift that it fits into.

[Gary.H]

Prompt, helpful advice as ever from James supporting his products

[Jezza]

Originally Posted by JWest

That's it! Make sure you move the shift rod bracket back on top of the tunnel - you'll see a relief cut in the base of the RennShift that it fits into.

Got it all in, it shifts great. However, there's a very light vibration/ rubbing noise at lower rpm's in 3rd and 4th gear, echoing from inside the tunnel. It's almost non existent in 1st and 2nd and it all shifts very smoothly. I have adjusted the coupler about 50 times, trying to get rid of it... haven't adjusted anything on the shifter itself (limiter, springs).

Originally Posted by Gary.H

Prompt, helpful advice as ever from James supporting his products

Absolutely. This was really cool, what great help. I would have made myself nuts figuring that out. What an amazing product... night and day. Now if I can only figure out this sound and get the car buttoned back up.

[JWest]

Originally Posted by Jezza

Got it all in, it shifts great. However, there's a very light vibration/ rubbing noise at lower rpm's in 3rd and 4th gear, echoing from inside the tunnel. It's almost non existent in 1st and 2nd and it all shifts very smoothly. I have adjusted the coupler about 50 times, trying to get rid of it... haven't adjusted anything on the shifter itself (limiter, springs).

First, back the limiters off very far - they should never touch in normal use and contact in a static state would probably cause noise. Adjust to proper position per the instructions after everything else is perfect.

Next thing I would try is to go for a drive with the tunnel access panel off. Reach back (or use an assistant) and grab the shift rod around the coupler when you hear the noise. Try to isolate the noise by putting pressure on the rod.

After worn coupler or shift rod bushings, the most likely possibility is that the shift rod is making contact with one of the tubes in the tunnel. When the former short-shift was installed it moved the shift rod lower in the tunnel (your problem spacer). One of the tunnel tubes may have been "adjusted" out of the way, and now that you have returned the shift rod to its factory position there may be interference.

[Jezza]

Originally Posted by JWest

First, back the limiters off very far - they should never touch in normal use and contact in a static state would probably cause noise. Adjust to proper position per the instructions after everything else is perfect.

Next thing I would try is to go for a drive with the tunnel access panel off. Reach back (or use an assistant) and grab the shift rod around the coupler when you hear the noise. Try to isolate the noise by putting pressure on the rod.

After worn coupler or shift rod bushings, the most likely possibility is that the shift rod is making contact with one of the tubes in the tunnel. When the former short-shift was installed it moved the shift rod lower in the tunnel (your problem spacer). One of the tunnel tubes may have been "adjusted" out of the way, and now that you have returned the shift rod to its factory position there may be interference.

Excellent. I'll take a look at this tomorrow. My fear is that it is putting pressure somewhere in my transmission and that is making the sound. I imagine that there is always a little vibration and any metal contact in the tunnel would cause some sound. My trans is rebuilt and bushings are new. Thanks for the help man.

[Jezza]

Well, it is shifting well, but all of the limiters are still out. I am not 100% happy with how it's set up. It did grind on me twice going into reverse. I have had it with this oem coupler clamp though and just ordered one from your site that doesn't require the use of my knee to stabilize the shifter while making very small adjustments. When that arrives, I'll try to start from square one again.

I have a feeling that you are right and the rod may be the issue with making the noise. It doesn't make sense to me, having adjusted the coupler all over the place and still hearing that vibration noise, that the sound is cause by something happening internally within the trans. Seems like there is something touching the rod in the tunnel and amplifying the normal vibration that would travel through the linkage. Wish I had access to one of those colonoscopy cameras (for the tunnel).

Thanks, I'll report back.

[VW_NUTT]

If you look on ebay for a USB Endoscope they are around $20 shipped from china. I got one last year for $15 shipped. Works very well for being so inexpensive. All you will need is a laptop or get one with a really long cord for your desk top. Just as a warning, DON"T USE YOUR WIFES LAPTOP! My wife has never forgiven me for the oily residue on the keyboard.