SOT MaxJax users (911 and 914)

Phoenix-MN · 03-27-2014, 05:41 AM

I will be installing a MaxJax lift sometime next month. Instructions show to space the posts anywhere from 105" to 130".

So my question is:

What spacing did you use that works well with a 911? I know I can install a second set of anchors for multiple cars/ trucks with different width requirements.

Thanks
Paul

Gillies · 03-27-2014, 12:49 PM

I installed mine at 110" and I wished I'd gone with at least 120". I can barely open the door to get into the car.

bushle · bushle's Garage

I probably win the award for the narrowest, mine is set at 85" inside to inside, approx 117" outside to outside. I have a tiny garage space with concrete block walls on both sides. Not even 10' wide! It works, but I have to roll under to go from front to back. I can' t remember if I ever got in the doors when it was lifted. On the other hand, wider apart will increase your moment arm and stresses on the anchor bolts. I sawed out my existing crappy concrete and put in 3' deep footings with 16" long anchor bolts. I think about stuff like that because I'm a civil/structural engineer. I feel pretty safe when I'm under the car. But I do supplement the lift with some extra jacks. Better safe than squished, that's my motto. The lift has worked great, so far. Brad

KTL · 03-27-2014, 02:50 PM

Brad,

What was the footprint of your footings? I assume the spread was mostly toward the center of the lift area to counteract the moment the lift arms place on the column?

Thanks,
Kevin

tocobill · 03-27-2014, 03:24 PM

I did 125 for mine. Ill check again tmrw. My RSR is fairly wide and its just perfect. My mini and cobra fit very well too. I put my old mans Element on it too and it was perfect.

bushle · bushle's Garage

KTL,

I think I did a 4' wide strip, side to side, by 2' by 3 deep for the deep footings under the pylons. 24CF of concrete per deep footing (almost a yard), so about 3200-3500# of concrete under each pylon. The middle about 1' deep with rebar tying both sides together. The outside is also tied to the foundation walls with rebar, so the moment is well-resisted by not just the concrete footings. In other words, they ain't goin' nowhere. It was total overkill. I used 2+ yards for the whole deal and plenty rebar. The old floor was only about 3" thick and it had to be done, so may as well do it right. Better safe than squished.

GaryR · GaryR's Garage

Hope you used a few gallons of Calcium Nitrite and 7% microsilica to protect that rebar!

Phoenix-MN · 03:44 AM

Thank you all for your replies, I think I'll try 125", this seems to be good for the 911. I also have a 914, Scion xB, Grand Cherokee, and a Dakota Quadcab, 125" should do the trick.

Paul

KTL · 03-28-2014, 05:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bushle

KTL,

I think I did a 4' wide strip, side to side, by 2' by 3 deep for the deep footings under the pylons. 24CF of concrete per deep footing (almost a yard), so about 3200-3500# of concrete under each pylon. The middle about 1' deep with rebar tying both sides together. The outside is also tied to the foundation walls with rebar, so the moment is well-resisted by not just the concrete footings. In other words, they ain't goin' nowhere. It was total overkill. I used 2+ yards for the whole deal and plenty rebar. The old floor was only about 3" thick and it had to be done, so may as well do it right. Better safe than squished.

I see what you mean about needing something done when you find a floor 3 in. thick.

If you have to get concrete delivered anyway, gotta make it worth the truck's trip & meet the supplier's min quantity, so might as well dump as much concrete as you can fit & afford!

I'm a CE as well, so I speaka the same language.

Jcslocum · 03-28-2014, 06:18 AM

125" here. It's the best thing ever to have the MJ!!! I could KICK myself for waiting so long to install some kind of lift. I would NOT drill extra holes, as this will provide a place for stress cracks to form between them.

I used some foam pipe insulation on the post edges to protect the doors when up and made some foam on magnetic signs for the doors when I pull them in so we have no banging.

I have tall 48" floor jacks so that I can let the car down and move the MJ post away for long term resto work. I'm working on a vintage mini right now so this allows full open work area for the sills.

KTL · 03-28-2014, 06:49 AM

What are the guys' thoughts who have the MaxJax in terms of ultimate lift height, meaning, any regrets that you can't stand under the car at full lift ?

Plavan · Plavan's Garage

You should really look at a Midrise lift. Less space, you can park over it when not is use (with ramps). You do not lose any space for other cars in your garage, and you can do anything with a Midrise you can do with a Max Jak on a 911.

Plus, you do not have to worry about mounting, only making a couple of easy ramps.

bushle · bushle's Garage

KTL,

Yes, 2 yards minimum delivery, so I kinda designed around that, plus I wanted lots of moment resistance, front to back and side to side. I think I succeeded. I ended up with a little more than 2 yards. CEs love concrete, what a wonderful material.

KTL · 03-28-2014, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bushle

KTL,

Yes, 2 yards minimum delivery, so I kinda designed around that, plus I wanted lots of moment resistance, front to back and side to side. I think I succeeded. I ended up with a little more than 2 yards. CEs love concrete, what a wonderful material.

Roger that. The challenge is, regardless of how much footing support there is, the MaxJax columns want to tilt inward if you load it with a considerably heavy vehicle that is near the maximum limit of the lift. That's why most lifts are typically floor plate or top plate with a span across the columns to counteract that desire to tilt. But for light cars, it's really not an issue.

What a wonderful material is right- when it behaves!

MotoSook · 03-28-2014, 08:37 AM

Why don't some of you guys get a C-channel the width of the posts and fabricate a bolt on bar. Say one that is easily removed. You can make it so the bar is just above the roof of the car so you retain clearance to the ceiling when raised. This won't work if you're going to use it regularly for working on your wife's car (or just make an adjustable height bar).

Both picture above with the 911 and Cobra, the roof is just at or above the top of post.

KTL · 03-30-2014, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MotoSook

Why don't some of you guys get a C-channel the width of the posts and fabricate a bolt on bar. Say one that is easily removed. You can make it so the bar is just above the roof of the car so you retain clearance to the ceiling when raised. This won't work if you're going to use it regularly for working on your wife's car (or just make an adjustable height bar).

Both picture above with the 911 and Cobra, the roof is just at or above the top of post.

Like this dude did.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oTxnEtxJQg

Phoenix-MN · 08-02-2014, 09:50 AM

Installed

dad911 · 08-02-2014, 10:49 AM

Looks like everyone that posted pics in this thread could have fit a full height 2 post, instead of the MaxJax.

Why did you go with the MaxJax instead?

Phoenix-MN · 08-02-2014, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dad911

Looks like everyone that posted pics in this thread could have fit a full height 2 post, instead of the MaxJax.

Why did you go with the MaxJax instead?

Looks are deceiving, a full height would not of fit

and the MaxJax can be unbolted from the floor and moved out of the way

dad911 · 08-02-2014, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phoenix-MN

Looks are deceiving, a full height would not of fit

and the MaxJax can be unbolted from the floor and moved out of the way

Don't you have open trusses, that would be open between the crossbars? Perhaps you won't get full height, but could lift much higher.