Engine Noise Sound Pad

[deguitars]

I just picked up a very clean '82 SC with only 84K miles on it and, like many other cars I looked at, the engine sound pad is missing. I even found a service receipt listing "remove engine insulation" but perhaps that's because it was crumbling to pieces or something?

So I'd like to replace it but notice a small plethora of choices on the market (several by host) ranging from stock to "super duper" versions and I'd like to get some feed back on what's the most effective/cost choice, and how difficult is it to shimmy that thing in there with the engine in place?

Thanks,
David

ps. here's the car (sorry for lousy photo)

[Jdub]

Great looking 911 - are those 7"/8" Fuchs?

First off, it is very hard to get that pad in without at least a partial engine drop, though it has been done. I replaced mine (factory OEM item) with the engine out of the car.

Others will chime in with their preferred material. Something to keep in mind is the soundproofing quality. I did not want the engine drone coming through the firewall, so I went with the factory "heavy" material.

Clean very well and apply glue liberally with Fast Tack or equiv. when you do this.

[T77911S]

i got the one from automotion. recomended to me by someone else.
i think it was the heay duty one, about $150, maybe a little more i think. anyway, i was very impressed with it.

i would do an engine drop and also replace the seal around the engine bay, if it is bad.
also a good time to replace vacuum hoses and seals on the CIS.

[wayner]

I went with the "ultimate engine sound pad" sold on Pelican

Super easy to install. I did it with the engine out but since it didn't have to be glued down (just slipped under the clips) it was easy to work with

Post 371
Saving a 73 from the crusher...

[wolds]

Went with the stock replacement from our host. Removed the airbox cover and the duct between the airbox and throttle body for ease of install. Had I realized how easy a partial engine drop was I would have done that also to further ease the install. Warren

[Lyle O]

I did mine with the engine in, and without even a partial drop. It wasn't too hard, but you will need to unhook the cruise control servo, and remove the air box, at a minimum. I also removed the heat exchanger/blower duct on top. And don't worry if you don't get every square inch glued. Just doing enough so it stays in place is good. You want to be sure you have cleaned up/vacuumed all the old, crumbled one (if a shop removed the old one, I would bet they didn't get everything out). The key to these pads is the trade off between noise abatement and heat aging. The rubber pad versions (even the newer heavy duty ones) are very effective for noise, but will age over time and have to be replaced (just like the old one). The versions with foil on both sides have non-rubber core, similar to felt; they are pretty much there for they rest of the life of the car, but are more of an insulator than a barrier. In my case, I have a cab, and the noise thing is less of an issue than the fact that I never want to replace the pad again. Your choice. Good luck...

[christiandk]

It will be to much fiddeling about without dropping the engine a little, imo. Remember you have to get some glue/adhesive on the pad or firewall. It WILL be a mess when it is too cramped.

To ease the task further you can split the mat in halves.

On my SC the engine was out. On my 912 it was in, but a 912 E engine does not take up as much room in the engine bay as a SC or Carrera engine.

Good luck - it looks great with a new OEM pad.

Christian

[Baby]

I didn't want to deal with adhesive, so I used a few strips of Velcro to hold mine in place. Others use magnets.

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by wayner

I went with the "ultimate engine sound pad" sold on Pelican

Super easy to install. I did it with the engine out but since it didn't have to be glued down (just slipped under the clips) it was easy to work with

Post 371
Saving a 73 from the crusher...

If your "Ultimate sound pad" is the one that's foil on one side with felt in the middle and black foam on the other side, you installed it wrong side out! The owner of App
Biz told me, he designed the Ultimate to have the extra durability of the thick foil, but still look stock (black) when installed, ergo,black side out. When I ordered mine from App Biz on the phone, I asked the owner again, and he told me "black side out". I was confused because in the Pelican Ultimate listing it shows foil side out, but that is incorrect. I suspect what's shown in the Ultimate listing is actually the wrong picture, and is actually the cheaper double foil sided one.

I'm sure you're very pleased with yours the way you did it and won't change it anytime soon. LOL Just thought I'd clear up some misinformation which wasn't helped by Pelican showing the wrong pic in their listing
Yes you are correct, you can install it without the glue mess, just use the clips.
It is a great product, and I don't regret spending the extra money! At least, I doubt this one will crumble!

[wayner]

I'm dropping my engine so I'll flip it.

Thanks for the tip

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by wayner

I'm dropping my engine so I'll flip it.

Thanks for the tip

Sure was a good thing that you used no glue! Good luck.

[NY65912]

I did mine and it was easy, maybe I have long arms?

[wayner]

Originally Posted by uwanna

Sure was a good thing that you used no glue! Good luck.

I meant to do that

[deguitars]

Thanks for all the great replies! I have no plans or need to drop the engine so I think I'll give it a go with it in place. Now just to decide which one...

Yes, I the wheels are 7" and 8" and I's trill trying to determine if they were original to the car or not. I don't care for the chrome look so I'd like to trade or swap them for the stock anodized/black versions if anyone is interested? The window sticker lists "Option Group 06" but after a bit of researching it seems what that included is pretty much unidentifiable. The car has cruise, sunroof, a/c, power antenna, power windows and fog lamps.

Cheers,
David

[gjmascoli]

Folks-
For the standard pad that our host offers (911-556-891-01-M260), one side is the black open cell foam, the other side is a whitish-grey teflon-ey looking plastic. I am assuming the whitish -grey side is the side that I glue to the firewall, correct.

recommendations on adhesive? 3M Spray?

[Mitch1]

@gjmascoli, the foam side is glued to the firewall. Rubber side facing out. 3m makes an adhesive called Super trim adhesive, for stuff that will not be removed again. I used that. The OEM gray sound pad is very heavy and prone to scratching. I bought one but ended up not using it because it didn't fit well and getting it behind A/C hoses was a bear. I used the newer lighter weight version that is black.

[Mitch1]

light weight black sound pad. Fits perfect.

[sacoffee]

Ok, bad info in this post ... I just installed the sound pad found here Packed & Shipped

PEL-APBZ-ESPU
Double-Reinforced Foil-Backed Engine Compartment Sound Mat/Pad, perimeter binding in BLACK, 911 (1969-89)

1.) it's is foil on both sides, no black
2.) does not required a partial engine drop to install, don't know what anyone would do this other than to create work for themselves.

Remove lid struts. Prop up lid. Remove the air box on right of engine bay. Cut a slit in the pad on the drivers side about 3/4" to the left of the opening for the lid strut up to 1" below strut opening. The slit is to be able to work the pad in behind the cruise servo and AC hose. Now install, takes about an hour all in.

I sprayed some contact adhesive on each corner up by the engine lid and in the center to keep it from drooping.

Mine looks perfect, very pleased.