79SC - is my head light switch spent?

[Robey5]

Hey guys:

I have been reviewing the various posts that show 'how' to put the relay kit in to address some issue that has to do with headlights.

Here's the problem:

I cannot figure out why the lights will not work in the 79SC. Fuses are good, the parking lights work and when the light switch is in the "on" position - the brights work when I pull the turn-signal stalk back.

I also cannot get the fog lights to work. I am not sure if this is a related problem, but I think that if the headlights work, then the fog lights will be 'allowed' to work.

I have swapped the relay for the fog lights with a known good relay. Fog lights still do not work.

When I spin/turn the light switch to dim the gage lights, it works properly. So that this thread is complete with pictures:





From the best of my investigation, this car has not been equipped with the relay kit.

Any thoughts here?

[theiceman]

At.first.guess I would say it may be your turn signal switch, not your headlight switch. You need to get a meter and start checking for 12 volts at different spots. See if you have 12 coming off the switch into the turn signal assembly.

[Robey5]

Ok; digging a little deeper on this issue, I have still not been able to find the culprit: but *may* be dealing with the turn signal switch being in need of replacement.

...however... I do not see anything out of order in this part (see pics)







I am not sure where to go next, as I have applied 12V to the headlights directly, and they work just fine. Also, for some reason - the turn signals work, the brights shine when I pull the turn signal stalk toward the driver, but when I push the stalk toward the dash, it doesn't work. Also, the fog lights do not ever work, but may be unrelated.

One of the contacts looks a little worn on the stalk switch, but not spent to the point of replacing this part.

What say those who have dealt with this issue in the past? When there is an overheating condition, doesn't it present itself in plastic which has "re-flowed" and scorched wire coatings?

I do not think that adding the relay kit to this car will *fix* the problem, but once I have this solved, the relay kit will be installed...

[timmy2]

Arcing contacts can build up enough carbon deposits to actually block the flow of electricity through the contacts. Take a small file or some Emory or crocus cloth and clean the surfaces of the contacts in the switch until they look slightly shiny and see if that fixes your problem.
Also search for the hi low beam turn signal repair threads. Tons of good reading and solutions in them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bill Douglas]

About every five years I clean the contacts and bend them around a little until I have both high beam and low beam. Easier than buying the new part and fitting it.

[porwolf]

Originally Posted by Robey5

Hey guys:

I have been reviewing the various posts that show 'how' to put the relay kit in to address some issue that has to do with headlights.

Here's the problem:

I cannot figure out why the lights will not work in the 79SC. Fuses are good, the parking lights work and when the light switch is in the "on" position - the brights work when I pull the turn-signal stalk back.

I also cannot get the fog lights to work. I am not sure if this is a related problem, but I think that if the headlights work, then the fog lights will be 'allowed' to work.

I have swapped the relay for the fog lights with a known good relay. Fog lights still do not work.

When I spin/turn the light switch to dim the gage lights, it works properly. So that this thread is complete with pictures:

From the best of my investigation, this car has not been equipped with the relay kit.

Any thoughts here?

First, you say "the brights work when I pull the turn-signal stalk back"
The bright lights are supposed to work when you push the steering wheel signal switch forward. Is that what makes your bright lights work? If the turn signal switch lever is pulled towards you the low lights are supposed to be on. The fog lights are not supposed to work with the bright lights, only the low lights.

I would get the headlights to work properly first the tackle the fog lights. There is an issue with the steering wheel turn signal switch: After some age it will always try to turn both the bright and the low lights on. That has to do with some bent contacts in the switch shown in your picture. Though I don't see any obvious problem there looking at them. I would still make sure the contacts work properly. Here are some links dealing with this issue:

Headlight hi/low beam issue - newbie

Light switch stuff ... but slightly different

Lost my low beams.

Some headlight wiring help

turn signal switch quick fix pictures

[cabmandone]

My fog lights didn't work either. Then I realized like modern cars, they only turn on with the low beams. If the highs are on, the fogs go off. Turn on low, fogs come one. Your low beam and fog lights could actually be the same problem.

As for your headlight bright/dim switch, there are a bunch of threads here on how to fix them. In the end, I just bought a new one and installed it. I had a lazy "I don't wanna" moment or I'd have fixed mine.

I think I've got one of the main headlight switches here if you want to test a theory. I could mail it and if it works, pay me what it's worth to you. If it doesn't, just send it back. Might be worth $12 in shipping to help diagnose.

[theiceman]

The flash to pass feature uses a secondary set of contacts deper in the switch and bypass the other contacts on the turn signal switch ..
Get that meter out yet ? a cheap volmeter will remove tonnes of guessing.

[bugstrider]

Ok, this may be a very simple known fact to most owners, but it is a new thing to me. The OP "Roybe5" is explaining some issues that I am experiencing to the letter. We just go our car back from it sitting for over 3 months at a local garage. Wanting to get it on the road, I have been doing some systems checks and clean-up from a botched brake fluid flush which brings me to this topic. As I mentioned before, we are experiencing the exact same issues as the OP. After reading his thread, I literally just go out to the car and run through the drills he described. Low and behold, I too do not have headlights?????????? They worked several months ago, so why would they not work now? I know my switch was failing because of the constant high beam they always did. I ordered a new switch and was just waiting for the right time to install it.

I just walked in the house all bummed because now I can not driver the car if the headlights are non-operational. Kinda important on a dark Hwy-49, way too many deer and mountain trolls smoking da reffer. I start trolling around on the BBS to see if I can find a similar problem and then it hits me out of the blue. I go back out to the car, turn the ignition on and "WHAM" I now have headlights again just as long as the ignition switch is turned on.

So, my advise to the original poster, try your ignition and be sure to turn it to the on position and see if your headlights are still MIA. I am not sure if it is a 911 safety thing, bad switch(which I know is failing) or a faulty headlight switch. I also heard a very faint whining sound coming from the switch or turn signal switch, so that is yet another info quest.

Cheers Trevor

[porwolf]

Originally Posted by bugstrider

Ok, this may be a very simple known fact to most owners, but it is a new thing to me. The OP "Roybe5" is explaining some issues that I am experiencing to the letter. We just go our car back from it sitting for over 3 months at a local garage. Wanting to get it on the road, I have been doing some systems checks and clean-up from a botched brake fluid flush which brings me to this topic. As I mentioned before, we are experiencing the exact same issues as the OP. After reading his thread, I literally just go out to the car and run through the drills he described. Low and behold, I too do not have headlights?????????? They worked several months ago, so why would they not work now? I know my switch was failing because of the constant high beam they always did. I ordered a new switch and was just waiting for the right time to install it.

I just walked in the house all bummed because now I can not driver the car if the headlights are non-operational. Kinda important on a dark Hwy-49, way too many deer and mountain trolls smoking da reffer. I start trolling around on the BBS to see if I can find a similar problem and then it hits me out of the blue. I go back out to the car, turn the ignition on and "WHAM" I now have headlights again just as long as the ignition switch is turned on.

So, my advise to the original poster, try your ignition and be sure to turn it to the on position and see if your headlights are still MIA. I am not sure if it is a 911 safety thing, bad switch(which I know is failing) or a faulty headlight switch. I also heard a very faint whining sound coming from the switch or turn signal switch, so that is yet another info quest.

Cheers Trevor

It's a Euro thing. Headlights, the "driving lights" (high and low) only turn on if the ignition is turned on. If the headlight switch is turned on but the ignition turned off only the parking lights are on. Saves batteries too.

[Robey5]

Update:

I was able to hit the contact with a very small/fine file and clear the area that needs to make contact. I cleared a little piece of something (plastic possibly) and -- the low beams work. (sweet!)

Now, we have the low beams functional, the flash to pass working, but when you push the stalk forward to activate hi-beams ON, they do not work ...meaning that the low beams stay on, but the high beam does not turn on. (lights tested, problem does not lie there).

I will continue on troubleshooting, but consider the "meat" of the battle to be over. I think that there is a little lever inside the turn signal switch that is broken or missing, because the contacts do not move up to the correct position when I push the stalk forward. If I do not get hi-beams for now; I am OK with it for the time being... but wonder: is there a little mechanical pin inside the switch box to push the contacts to the "hi-beam" location and stay there?

[Rodek]

Thank you for making this thread and posting various links. I have the "don't have high beams" issue and have no clue as to where to begin the repair. For some reason or another, a few months ago I bought the relay kit because my 78 SC has Halogen bulbs. Recently my bright lights quit working. If you were me, where would you begin?

[bugstrider]

Now I was planning on getting the relay for a soon to be headlight upgrade. Since we to have a 78 SC, is there an inherent issue I should be worried about with this year and modification?

[timmy2]

My 78 works great with H4's the relay kit and a new turn signal switch. I even had to adjust the contacts in the new one after a year... Kept jumping to high beams. Simple to adjust by bending the contacts.

[Rodek]

Wow! I love this forum. Using this very post and the links inside, I was able to fix my bright light problem (I had to bend the metal tab). This post saved me time, money and aggravation and I truly appreciate it! Thank you.

[kidrock]

Just did the same fix today. Replaced the turn signal switch 5 years ago with a new one. No issues until last week, the high beams would come on by themselves or by using the turn signal. Pulled the steering wheel and bent the tabs....good as new again.

To the PO: if you've bent the tabs and they're not making the necessary contact to make everything work properly, you're probably due for a new turn signal switch.

[Robey5]

Progress:

I bent the terminal springs back - and got the flash to pass feature to work, as well as the low beams.

I went ahead and purchased the relay kit from our host. In sum, I spent about 45 minutes installing the relay kit (from jwest engineering) and confirming that that the lights were still in working order.

So, I noticed a couple things "while I was in there"

The ground pin was corroded, so before I hit it with a wire brush, cleaned all ground loops, and put the ground wires back together with a little dose of dielectric grease.

I would include pictures, but really - if you're in the frunk playing with the fuse leads and adding the relay kit -- you would pretty quickly understand.

For now, the problem is solved, but I am going to get a spare turn signal switch and light switch for the parts arsenal.