Anyone have a solution tank to cooler line with B&B Headers?
 

My brother and I are installing his freshly rebuilt 3.2 with B&B headers and have run into a roadblock. When I went to install the S hose it will contact the headers. I have found that B&B sells a steel line to replace the rubber line but as luck has it, my bro didn't buy that line with the used headers. Does anyone have a fab solution to get us up and running? A temporary fix is Ok until he can get the proper line.

Fire any suggestions my way. We're stuck until we get this fixed.

I cobbled together a B&B system from used parts. I would just call them. They sold me the bracket that I needed. Don't see why they wouldn't sell their custom S hose. Just be sure to get the silicone bits for each end.

That's what we've about come to. My brother (Gordo2) and I were hoping to find some sort of temp solution until we can get the correct line or have one fabricated locally. We're hoping to find someone with an idea for a line to get the car fired today.

Thanks for your reply.

Just installed a used B&B system on an 83. I bought the B&b s tube $100. Have them quick ship it should get it before the weekend. You could try cutting the end of the old s tube as a temp fix.

instant G has some from when they were B&B dealers (or they did). I found the B&B line used. In the interim I used zip ties and a piece of scrap sheet steel to pull the line away from the headers and shield from heat. Not pretty but it worked for a year. Remember you have to drain the oil when you change the s line - something to consider. I think I have seen people use braided line but you have to weld on a fitting etc.

Do you guys need a muffler? I have one if you do.

You sir might have just breathed life back into this project. We were both concerned with heat melting the rubber tube. I think the idea of some tin and possibly some insulation at the closest points just might work.
We aren't worried about the oil draining since he'll be draining soon once we get through the initial break in on the rebuild. It's good to know your quick fix worked for that length of time.

Thanks to everyone for the replies.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1402787404.jpg
I just have heat tape wrapped on mine and it's been fine.

I had their metal line but didn't like it so made a steel line welded from the tank outlet had to do a hard 90 degree and ran it along the tank then just cut a small section out of the stock S hose to go from my fab tube to the engine since it had to flex a bit. Can get pics tomorrow if you want?

Craig I would love to see a picture if you have time. Sounds like a great solution.

I studied this setup and think that dropping the oil tank and brazing in a 45% brass or copper elbow and then running the rubber tube down to the oil cooler would be about as clean as you could get while still maintaining some semblance of serviceability for valve adjustments when the time comes. My brother decided to just wait to get the BB tube so our goal of getting his engine installed and going over the weekend went by the wayside. Oh well, it was a nice trip to N.O.V.A and I got to drink a fair amount of his homebrew.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

Here is my setup, hard line from the tank to a small rubber connector short steel line then the S hose to the engine. I think the connector is because I didn't make the hard line long enough.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/17/6e9apemu.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/17/ybyna8et.jpg

That's something like what I had in mind. Thanks for the pics.

Thats still pretty close to the headers. Have you guys noticed the engine runs cooler with the B&Bs? Maybe they dont get as hot as I think they do because of the way they are spaced out in the air flow.

What if you just moved the oil out let to the front end of the oil tank and closed up the stock out let? Then it would be way clear of the headers. Maybe the baffling in the tank is not set up for the oil to leave from that end.

My brother and I were discussing the potential for the headers raising the oil temps but in the end decided if it was a problem, there are enough guys running B&B headers that we'd have read something about it while researching the headers.

Sorry, meant to reply to #13

I never had a heat problem, I guess if the car sat and idled for a long time it might transfer heat to the oil but any moving not a problem, There is a lot of air from the cylinders blowing thru there anyhow.

We have a heat insulating fabric cover over the rubber S hose and a bracket to hold
the hose away from direct contact with a custom header (not BB) -- this has worked
for 5 years now on both a 3.2L and now the 3.8L race engines.

Regards,

here's what I did with mine...
[IMG]http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/IMG_1673.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/IMG_1671.jpg[/IMG]

I figured that the Oil Tank would appreciate a little insulation from the heat as well.

Nicely done PDT, great fabrication skills. I am embarrassed to show a picture of mine. It looks like you are using the B&B 'p trap' ( as some have called it)?

Be careful with just a sleeve - I had mine raised up - and with the torque of the engine - stll had it rub - even with a heat sleeve

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338429884.jpg

I broke down and got the B & B line - you can get direct from B & B - I'll have to take a picture of mine - I do have it pretty well insulated