Am I missing something?

[Gordo2]

Folks,

I'm checking out an '83 911SC Targa. I've done a great check out, thanks to Pelican PPI checklist:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/technical_specs/911_checklist.txt

I'm getting a Porsche shop to give the mechanicals a once over (PPI). The guy recommended a compression test vs. a leak down. Said compression test should indicate problem, leak down isolate...

I've run a CARFAX report (worthless as far as I'm concerned, but I was curious). Clean report.

The vehicle is in good condition. Minor exterior and interior wear and tear (as I would expect of a vehicle this age, 20 footer...). Has 164k on the Odo. Drives great (powerful, tight, shifts well, solid clutch, a little funky 1st to 2nd, but not bad). Has Carrera tensioner upgrade. Minor oil drip (none on pavement after weekend but noticable on bottom of engine). Targa seals in good shape but poor mate to driver's window (Targa top to vent window frame, rear of window to Targa bar seal). No service documentation. PCA sticker in window.

Posted problem on BBS related to loud ticking noise under accelleration (sounded like valves). More I think of it, it probably broken head stud(s)/leakage.

I'm hoping the mechnic's PPI goes well. Hope to get a few years with limited miles (20k) prior to going for an engine rebuild.

If the compression test shows leakage, how soon would I need a rebuild (assume if I'm yanking the motor to fix head stud's I may as well go whole hog)?

Place wants $6,200 which I consider fair if not cheap compared to what others are asking for similar vehicles.

Am I missing something.

May be part of the club this week, let me know soon.

Thanks, Gordo

[emcon5]

Make sure the mechanic pulls off the lower valve covers during the PPI and checks for broken head studs.

If it has a broken stud/studs, I say keep looking.

Tom

[Wayne 962]

That is cheap. If this is a used car place or some place that actually sells cars, then they are not stupid - there's something wrong with the car.

However, for that price, you can't be too wrong. The parts alone probably add up to that number...

-Wayne

[Gordo2]

A little more info:

It's at a dealer. The place deals mostly in newer mid to high milage luxury sedans. This thing is an oddity on their lot (most vehicles are $20k and up... Lexus, Mercedes). They have had it on thier packed lot for a month. They move a lot of vehicles (they were off loading a bunch of sharp vehicles while I was there).

I'm normally hestiant about buying from a dealer, I normally like the one on one with owners. So far this place has been good (no pressure tactics).

Really intersted in rebuild/fix requirement for broken head studs (assuming that's the deal). How soon is it required, what's the effect of putting it off for 10-20k miles.

Thanks Again, Gordo

[nostatic]

Depends on how good you are at working on the car. Consider the economics if you had a shop do the work. Sounds like it needs a rebuild. If you spend $6K up front, then you could easily drop $10K into a rebuild and other things (and that is assuming you don't need to do the tranny and clutch). You now have a 164K mile car that cost you $16K. You could buy a MUCH lower mile car for that amount of money.

I would think this is only worth it if you are a good DIY person and want a project. And offer them $4K.

[Gordo2]

Agree on the maintenace part. I'm not sure how anyone affords to run these things without working on them on thier own. Deep pockets, insanity, lack of wife or nearing that point???


Whatever Porsche I buy, my first investment is aimed at repair manuals (ouch, $250 ish... I hope they are inclusive).

I intend this thing to be maintained by the same dude that does 100% of the work on my '87 Landcruiser... Me.

On the price note: I take a dealer asking $6,200 to mean he has some room to play... $5,000 is my going in. If the PPI engine results come in strong, I'll meet wherever I can walk away with it. I assume he didn't pay more than KBB high trade value: $4,825.


Thanks, will see what happens today.

Gordo

[Gordo2]

PPI came back as expected...
-Somewhat raggy on the visual side (expected... price)
-Good enough on the mechanical side (165-175 PSI with minor variation between cylendars).
-Intermittent rough running(I never noticed during a 45 minute beating that I gave the car?). Said possible CD problem. Unknown cause.
-Heater & A/C problems (rusted exchanger shroud). No A/C fill. I don't intend to drive with the top on anyways (not a primary vehicle).
-Lambda computer bad (possible lean mixture)? Not sure how bad this is. Understand may impact emissions. Licence Ohio, read no active testing...
-Plugs clean
-Minor exhaust smoke (possible rings wearing... 160k miles, expected)
-Ticking thought to be valve adjustment required.

Nothing sounded like anything I can't handle/invest in when I'm ready.

I'm on my way tomorrow. I think I'll keep the location to myself.

Thanks, Gordo

[jabb]

DId they pull the lower valve covers ?

This where I would look first.... the noise you first describe under acceleration can be a broken head stud, and not valve adjustments