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Dropped My Engine this Weekend - Easier than I was expecting

I dropped my engine this weekend. This is related to my PMO install that I am currently working on. I decided to drop the engine and do the clutch as well as retrofit the fuel lines (including tunnel).

I read as many posts as I could to get prepared. I think that my drop was easier than sum because I removed the CIS prior to dropping the engine. Also, my car is a '74 so there is less CIS stuff to remove. I figured that I could pull this stuff off without too much worry since I won't be using it again (and I've removed a few times in the past).

I also removed my SSI's prior to dropping because I needed to take them in to get an oxygen sensor welded on.

I made a platform that had various blocks to support the main case and also had two 4x6 blocks that sat under the heads. I made sure the case was fully supported as I did not want the heads to be supporting the engine. I screwed the platform to a furniture dolly and then set on top of a rolling jack. The platform was 30" wide (needed to reach heads) and 22" long.

It took a couple of hours to disconnect everything (including the axles) and for the most part was very easy (I did this a few days in advance). It took a couple more hours to remove the exhaust since I didn't have the proper tool (I have since acquired the special SSI tool). One word of advice....Put a secondary dolly near the end of the transmission. I'm very glad I did because when I pulled the engine a few inches back to clear the tunnel, the trans immediately dropped and landed on the carpeted dolly.

When it was finally time to loosen the engine support bolts, the entire process to drop the engine took about 20 minutes. I had the car jacked up both front and rear approximately 24" at the torsion bars. Once I started lowering the engine, I lowered the front of the car to give me more rear height via angle of the car. I also had to remove the rear lower valance to get a bit more clearance.

Here's a few pics of the process:






Old 07-21-2014, 04:36 PM
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...and you're tempted to crawl into the engine bay and take a selfie...

congrats!
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Old 07-21-2014, 04:44 PM
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Well done!!!
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midnight911 View Post
...and you're tempted to crawl into the engine bay and take a selfie...

congrats!
Definitely coming. And I'm tempted to do it in a suit since 90% of the time I started working the instant I got home, without regards to changing clothes.
Old 07-21-2014, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tidybuoy View Post
Definitely coming. And I'm tempted to do it in a suit since 90% of the time I started working the instant I got home, without regards to changing clothes.
I know that feeling.
Congrats.
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Old 07-21-2014, 06:29 PM
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Congrats!
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:28 AM
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Congrats! If you did this alone, great job for first-timer.
No need to remove heat exhangers, the flat surface is a good place to support weight of engine and it's stable.
While you have it out, recommend you change plugs, adjust valves, change all the O-rings in the triangle of doom on top back i.e. do all the maintenance you can do with it out, much easier.
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:39 AM
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A no-drama drop - well done! No shortage of while-you're-in-there's...
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:31 AM
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I have no need to drop mine but all these recent drop threads are giving me the itch!
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jager911 View Post
Congrats! If you did this alone, great job for first-timer.
No need to remove heat exhangers, the flat surface is a good place to support weight of engine and it's stable.
While you have it out, recommend you change plugs, adjust valves, change all the O-rings in the triangle of doom on top back i.e. do all the maintenance you can do with it out, much easier.
I did this alone. My neighbor volunteered to help but I got anxious and didn't think it was appropriate to call him at 11pm.

I know I didn't need to remove the heat exchangers but I needed to have an oxygen sensor bung welded on - I brought them in to work since we have expert stainless welders here. Also, I had exhaust leaks so I needed to remove and replace gaskets.

Valves will be later this week. Even though I adjusted about 2 months ago, I want to re-check everything and engine out will make it a little easier.

All the other items + some. I'm tired of leaks.

I plan to spend a couple of hours each night this week cleaning & cleaning & re-cleaning. I have a few things to install for the Electromotive and I don't want to drill for the cam sync sensor or any other sensors until I have a spotless engine (and work space) to work on.

I'm dropping off the flywheel to be re-surfaced tomorrow. It looks like it won't need much, if anything.

Thanks for all the tips (this thread and all the others out there)!
Old 07-22-2014, 09:09 AM
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How about a new sound pad for the engine compartment while the engine is out? Serious bang for the buk!
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Old 07-22-2014, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by CCM911 View Post
How about a new sound pad for the engine compartment while the engine is out? Serious bang for the buk!
Definitely. I bought the version that is foil on one side and then felt/rubber on the other side. My engine compartment looks bad now but only because I removed the old sound pad. I'm going to be putting the wheels back on so I can roll it outside and really scrub the engine compartment.

Any suggestions for removing the old glue? I was thinking of trying a product that I have that is used for graffiti removal. I will also use a plastic scraper and at least get the surface as smooth as possible.

I'm also looking for something that I might use to finish off the exposed edge of the sound pad (like a rubber molding or something). I was thinking of going to the wrecking yard and picking up a door molding or something (preferably light) that I can cut and use as a cover for the top edge that you usually see.
Old 07-22-2014, 09:54 AM
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^^^

Curious as well for that and my eventual interior recarpet.

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Old 07-22-2014, 11:39 AM
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