G50 Balky Shifting Fixed!

[Don Plumley]

I've been grumbling about my sometimes-balky 1-2 shift for some time now. There was also a slight leak from the selector/shift shaft seal, so I finally got busy (ordered the seal from PP back in March!) and took care of business.

In short, the old shift shaft seal popped off when I took off the boot. The hole looked a little oval as well (probably psychosomatic). While I was at it (and after reading the article in the April 2002 Pano), I took out and disassembled the entire shifter mechanism and replaced the shift rod bushing (it's only $3.65, so I simply had too).

I can't tell you how well the car shifts now! It's unbelievable! Gear changes are positive and quick - even the 1-2 shift under power. Wow!

If you have a G50 and are not happy with your shifting performance, I cannot recommend this maintenance task highly enough. To think that one garage wanted to drop the tranny and do the synchros - you can imagine how much that would cost. This total project cost less than $15 in parts and $21 in fluid. The satisfaction of doing it myself and solving the problem - priceless.

If there is enough interest I can write up a procedure.

Yea!!!!

{Unfortunately - I can't enjoy it. I was warming up the car to change the oil and just noticed I've got a torn CV boot. Arrghhhh. But I guess if I were not changing the oil, I would not have noticed.}

[gr8fl4porsche]

John,
Exactly which bushings did you replace?

You mention the "shift rod bushing" . are you referring to the shift rod coupler bushing within the trap door or the cup bushing at the end of the shift rod.

[Don Plumley]

Shift Rod Bushing here in red, p/n L-424-224-03:

Was the bushing I replaced.

The cup bushing:

Seemed fine - the ball snapped in okay and I didn't feel any play. If I had it to do over again, I'd consider replacing it (it's only $17).

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Don

[svlTarga]

I havn't taken mine apart yet but the recent Excellence article has me ready. For me, the small things seem to take forever to find a weekend where I can get around to it.

If you have the time, another source of "how-to" would certainly help.

[David Ceruti]

Thanks for the advice - I have been experiencing exactly the same symptoms, especially the 1-2 shift. I will strip and replace the bush this weekend. I can't wait to get rid of the intensly frustrating battle to get it into 2nd, especially when I am jumping away from the lights to get into a gap in the traffic.

While I was trying to sort out the problem, I did manage another useful modification. On the part of the linkage under the trap door I loosend the bolts from the gear lever part of the linkage (where it bolts through the rubber "donut") and put a fibre washer about 3mm thick behind each bolt.

This made a huge change to the feel at the gear lever. It is much more direct - all the sloppiness is gone and I can almost feel the detents in the box now. Now if I can get the 1-2 sorted out

[gr8fl4porsche]

I have changed both the cup bushing and the shift rod bushing with no great improvement. Mine must not have been very worn as the shifting felt only marginally smoother with the new parts.

I have had the rubber donut bushing within the trap door on backorder for months now with Pelican. Has anyone been able to find one?

[Don Plumley]

I think the shift shaft seal at the tranny did the most good - and perhaps it caused the shifter bushing to be a bit worn as well. I also replaced the M1 that I put in a year ago with new M1 gear oil, and from the looks of it, it took out more of the old Swepco.

David - where did you place the washers on the shift coupling? It seems to me you might have simply "eliminated" some of the effect of the rubber coupling - the shifting will be more direct. Are you having any vibration issues?

The process to overhaul the shifter assy is very straight forward and well documented in the Pano article. Do remember to mark the position of the bolts holding the shifter cage to the hump. I'd also test shifter movement before you button the console back up. One strange thing that happened to me was when I first restarted the car (after checking movement), the shifter would not engage. I was having a serious pucker moment. But then it finally did engage and stuff was great thereafter.

Check you shift coupling boot/in the tunnel/the drain plugs under the pan for signs of fluid leakage. If so, I recommend the shift shaft seal replacement.

[David Ceruti]

Don

Yes the washers do eliminate some of the flex from the donut but I haven't had any vibration problems at all - just a nice direct feel to the shift.

Please post your experience if you try it out. I'm quite proud of my first "improvement" to my baby (all the other work has been refurbishment) but I am also quite sensitive to changes that may have negative aftereffects and then I'll change it all back to the original

Regards

DC