Replace the Injector seals, injector sleeves and seals, rubber air box to runner sleeves, Throttle body to air box o-ring, metering plate assembly to air box gasket. Cold start injector gasket.

When apart test your air box for cracks using the pressurized air submersion method (seal all holes to vacuum area and apply a little air pressure while submerging)
There are posts and pictures of Tony (boyt911sc) demonstrating how in some threads.
Read this thread too:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/758788-cis-troubleshooting-dummies.html


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First batch of items is here :D

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psxotveipg.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps6tm4pqhf.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps1igfp0mr.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...pssrbx2hwi.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psii2vocmo.jpg

and took my car to service and saw another beauty :eek:
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psstyb4vbq.jpg

911 engine porn !!!! :p

Nice... :)


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Things are trickling in. Main shipment from Pelican is outstanding and just got an email it will be delayed. Second time this happens - the shipping time on the website is wrong. Last time it said shipping in 9 days and its been over a month :(

Rennline stuff - RSR Engine Carrier and Fan Housing Strap :D
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...pszd86nvlc.jpg

I found a local shop that does ultrasonic and chemical cleaning. I am thinking about chemical cleaning for the oil tank, however I am not sure if I should do US cleaning on the cam housing, engine case, oil cooler, etc. What is the general consensus?

More engine porn - my custom harness by timmy2 :D

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...db364d5215.jpg

Got stuff!

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdri5zsce.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psg4kdeiuz.jpg

Gotta say, excellent service from Dougherty, quick and efficient.

Turns out my heads need major work so cgarr (Craig) is taking care of that, and my rods are getting the royal treatment from Steve@Rennsport.

Once those arrive, I'll be able to start assembly!

Wow this is epic. Nice build! Sub'd

Craig does great work, pay the extra cash and have him R&R all exhaust studs on the heads!

Yes.
I had my case, cam towers, and chain housings ultrasonically cleaned after spending way too many hours trying to clean them by hand. I should have done that from the start.
I still need to take my oil cooler in.

I'd prefer to replace the exhaust studs since one broke while I was removing the heat exchangers

I dropped my cam towers, chain housing, oil cooler and oil tank yesterday. Once they're done I'll drop the case. Looking forward to how it turns out.

I got some bad news yesterday from one of my instagram followers who said his Bursch headers rusted very quickly and that I should coat them or use heat wrapping. Looks like I'll start sanding them to remove the paint and then paint them with high heat spray paint.

Got the first batch of stuff back from ultrasonic cleaning

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...pszumvdfnw.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psby1qyt45.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps8mp3atu1.jpg

Find any dipsticks in that oil tank?

Craig will look at them when he's working on the heads and give you his thoughts on their condition. I agree with whiz that now is the best time to do them & Craig has all the tooling and experience to get them out cleanly and quickly, even if some break in the process of replacement. If you've never dealt with replacing a broken stud before, especially one that has broken off flush with the head surface, you may want to have Craig do them & save you some troubles.

Yes sir, I'll email Craig and see. My new set arrived, but I can probably sell them here :)

Just the one I dropped a month ago ;)

Got a question. When removing different parts from the crankcase, a few studs came off (pics below). What is the general consensus on reuse? I ordered new studs that mate the engine case with the transmission since one was bent, and ordered a set for where the oil breather cover mates with the engine, but what about these random ones?

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...pscabbqeym.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps0sgc1cw7.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...pskcjilvyh.jpg

Got my crankcase halves cleaned but they still have a layer of whatever liquid they used so I started wiping this half down with Dettol wipes. Will go through it one more time then use rubbing alcohol to finish it off before assembly.

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...pshifzelp7.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgrutnfam.jpg


and an update on the final setup:

100mm slip-fit nickies with 9.5:1 JE pistons (essentially 3.3L), 964 cams, Bursch headers, M&K 2-in-1-out exhaust and a bitz EFI kit

Anybody? stud reuse?

I reused any studs that just backed out.
Unless they were damaged.


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Did you use a thread locker?

I used blue locktite on the ones that backed out on the cam tower.
If a stud has proper torque applied and is not something that comes apart often I don't apply any.

Agreed you can reuse the studs M8 studs as they're not highly stressed. There's so many of them around the case perimeter that they have a lot of holding power. They pretty much never break. Just because it backed it out doesn't mean there is something necessarily wrong.

Be sure to check the back side of the chain housings. There is an epoxy that is applied on the back to seal the chain idler arm post and also the chain ramp posts. When you have the housings cleaned in solvent, that epoxy can come loose. Test the epoxy with a scraper to see if it is easily removed. If so, put some new epoxy on there. Favorite choices on the forums are JB Weld, Loctite Hysol 9340 or Devcon Liquid Metal.

Also don't apply too much epoxy. Only a thin layer is needed. If applied too thick it can interfere with the cam housing and make your chain housing gasket leak and also the more critical camshaft thrust plate gasket.

Thanks for the advice Kevin - I'll do just that. I happen to have JB Weld on hand. I'll make sure to use it sparingly.

It seems to be several studs are missing after getting the case back from the machine shop - not sure if they were there before but I'll find out soon enough

Received my harness and bitz kit from timmy2.. the harness is artwork.. he also helped beef up the bitz harness and now everything looks great and brand new!

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps5tlts1xk.jpg

This is the current state of my home gym :)

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps4wgoarn5.jpg

While waiting for the parts to arrive, I embarked on several mini projects. I removed the whaletail, started cleaning and prepping the engine tin and other parts for painting, and deleted the radio. I bought a 2 gauge pod for my wideband and voltmeter, but while looking at the radio delete plate I got an idea. Finished it today

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psoonyy2ob.jpg

Sorry for the bad pic, its night time..

Now I have all the stereo wires to sort through. I am pretty sure I'll be able to use the wiring from the stereo to hook up to the voltmeter. I have zero electric experience :)

Looks like you're on the right track taking pictures, putting stuff in bags and marking them and buying lots of new shiny parts!!

Great use of weight bench, stationary bike, tread mill basket ball hoop!!

Looking great!
There are a number of places on the engine case to apply a shmear of epoxy - including this one:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/603362-case-jb-weld-question.html#post5968282

:D

Knee injury put me out of commission so might as well make use of the space!

Thanks! I'm following Waynes book and its pretty detailed, I'm not too worried

New fuel lines from Len!

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psgqklykmo.jpg

Len really knows his hose and fittings. Great resource for people to refresh their oil and fuel plumbing

All you guys are a great resource! between the invaluable help on this thread, and emails with Dennis (timmy2), Len and Craig, I am very happy.. the SC should turn out great if I manage to pull everything off..

Only rods outstanding with Rennsport with no ETA, otherwise I can start assembling soon.. weather just started turning around here (below 30c) which is great for working outdoors

Worked 6 hours straight today, no breaks.. removed all the AC/heater components in the boot and installed the fuel tunnel lines and new fuel pump. Didn't get a chance to install the rear fuel lines. Found out I don't have the grommets for the tunnel lines so ordered those today along with a new fuel tank.

Must say, Lens lines are wonderful, and the adapter he includes makes pulling the lines much easier. One tip though, I read in another thread to just push the grommets into the tunnel and get them later. Did that, but one of them ended up being in the way of me pulling the line.. had to spend a lot of time fishing it out and getting the line through.. but the job was very easy since the engine, transmission and fuel tank are all out

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psoldtrv00.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psry4gxwj6.jpg

Next step is to rebuild and pedal cluster.. I didn't like the way the wiring looked so I might try to clean that up as much as possible and then repaint the boot area

More fiddling around today
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps4eidmhmj.jpg

Now that I've removed all the AC components, I have a lot of open vents in my trunk area - how do people usually go about closing these off?

I used aluminum flashing (thin sheet essentially) and glued it to the inside with weatherproof adhesive. No expensive tools, no new holes, and reversible. Doesn't look factory, but I don't look at the bottom of my smuggler's box often, nor do I feel around behind the front bumper.

That'll be a good option. I need to shave off some rusted parts around the battery - would covering the area with the same flashing and repainting the entire area yield reasonable results? I've never worked with flashing

Flashing is just thin aluminum sheet you buy at the hardware store. It cuts with tin snips or very stout scissors. Painting flat black would make it unobtrusive.

As far as around the battery, I'd be sure that all the rust was neutralized and all the metal protected first. Bad things happen in that neighborhood.

Some more car parts porn.. thanks to Craig (cgarr), a true professional and delightful guy to deal with. Did a super job on my heads and rockers and in the promised time frame! Also thanks to tom1394racing for the quick dispatch of a new-used head

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...pspcmestkg.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/n...psdsj2df5s.jpg

Hmmm - I am getting a tiny bit jealous now!
( & my wife wouldnt let me put engine parts on the lounge room table - ever ;) )