Horns of a Dilemma - Shocks/Struts

[grizzfan]

I've read all the posts concerning the various manufactures. I have Koni's on the rear and Boges in front. Front is not the problem.

On a hard drive this weekend (To Yaak & Back) with our local PCA group I heard loud clunking sounds from the passenger side rear wheel well when I hit a bump on that side. Thought I could find where something was hitting the body, but to no avail.

My mechanic friend suggested to look at new rear shocks.

Our sponsor sells these KYB shocks for about 1/3 of any other manufacture. I've searched the site and they don't seem to have very good reviews. I'm a Scot and will pick the bargain every time to a fault. But I'd like your advice first. Thanks.

Tom

[911s55]

Our sponsor sells these KYB shocks for about 1/3 of any other manufacture. I've searched the site and they don't seem to have very good reviews.

Tom[/QUOTE]

Boge struts with Boge inserts, or?

[DRACO A5OG]

Okay try find a burmed paved road and roll up the side several times slowly and see if you can duplicate the sound. If so, it may be the rear wheel bearings.

If there is no play on the rear struts then I say it is the bearings, Cheaper fix but more work, sorry.

Jim

[grizzfan]

Some "full disclosure" here that I didn't originally add so as to keep the post short:

We recently installed an Elephant Racing, late Carrera, fender mounted oil cooler with some associated new piping in and around the rear passenger wheel well. I thought the body was coming into contact with the new pipes during these bumps and that it would leave mark on the undercoating - to no avail. Also it seems I have a torn inner CV Boot. Do these add anything to my dilemma?

Tom

[Flat Six]

While you're in there checking, take a look at the rear sway bar links.

[Trackrash]

I had a problem with my CV boot hitting my oil lines in the right rear, tearing my boot. It was difficult to diagnose, as it would only hit during hard bumps. I ended up remounting the oil lines to fix the issue.

I had also added an SC front cooler setup. The difference is my '71 did not have the clearance built into the frame. I had to add that with a BFH. Your '73 may have had the provision for the oil lines already. Your rear lower shock mount and your ride height may also have an effect. At some point either '72 or '73 the lower shock mount and subsequent shock length was changed. BTW my car has been lowered quite a bit.

[grizzfan]

Trackrash, I think you've solved it! Much to my chagrin a PO lowered the car quite a bit too using the built-in factory adjustments. I'm told it's a bear to put the rear back to "normal" so I haven't at this point. Your photo is perfect and I hope I have enough "slack" in the pipes/hoses to do the same. It looks like you've used a woven, armored cross-over hose; I didn't, already having a cross-over at the rear of the engine.

It looks like my lower pipe (about where the bend is in your photo) has moly grease from the torn CV boot on it. That's probably the culprit.

Anyhow, I appreciate your help. Thanks.

Tom

[Trackrash]

You may also want to check to make sure the rubber stop in the shock is still in good shape. Those can deteriorate and cause the shock to bottom out.

[grizzfan]

Good point. I will be replacing the rear shocks anyway and their associated rubber parts. Still trying to decide which brand. One of them, I think Bilstein, makes a "heavy duty" rear shock. But then again there's KYB!

Tom

[gtc]

Don't bother with KYB. Even a used pair of Bilstein HDs would be a better choice and last longer.

[McLaren-TAG]

My advice? If you

will pick the bargain every time to a fault

then an air cooled 911 is not a car to subject yourself to.

[DRACO A5OG]

Now now, be nice.

+1 go used HD Bilsteins, you can have them serviced at bilstein for like $60 each, still cheaper than new. Heck if you can corner balance your girl then they can calibrate for your car specifically.

J

[McLaren-TAG]

I was being nice!

[DRACO A5OG]

Lol :d