Tune up complete 72t MFI Veeery long

[jeff m]

After the flatbed man asked me if I wanted to open an account I decided it was time......
It began with my problem with the speed switch which I labored thro with numerous prods from Warren.
I downloaded everything I could find from the tech stuff on this site. Then I searched and read a LOT of post from this board, not only subject searches but also searches of various individuals posts. So all you guys Thanks.
Before I started the car ran ok, started ok, but was very rich.
Valves adjusted, what a horrible job that is. didn't change oil because I was going to be running rich till total job was complete.
Then I set about checking all the sensors/ senders/thermastats etc. Whilst doing this my paper/foil pipe to the thermastat got a bit messed up, changed it for one inch heavy rubber hose as a temp measure, will replace later.
All ancillary bits working, started on the stacks, I did not remove the stacks (I know I should have done) I threw a ton of cleaner into the stacks, reset the butterflies. I found a blocked vacuum on #4 and two of the air screws all the way in.
Cleaned all the holes, screws etc.
Then started to adj the rods!
I either misread the instructions or did not fully understand them but I needed help there, which I got from the board. Whilst doing the rods I realised how badly my car was adjusted. The pump was well away from its stop! (worried me at the time) gave the pump a few clicks of lean, then got out the strobe to check timing.
You would not beleive how far out it was (but the car was running) I started to doubt myself, there were the marks the light was flashing, reved the engine, now I'm really confused it seemed to move in the wrong direction. Called the wife said if the engine turns that way, no just kidding, I did wait for a neighbor to arrive and talked it over with him as I thought I had "lost it",
Next day after brain had recovered, I had another look,
That white paint is on the wrong mark, I'm sure. It was.
Had a guess at static timing set it, car will not start, not even close.
Put it back to POs place, starts right up. But I know I'm right.
Out comes dist for the second time, (I had put points and run WD40 through etc before) The two plates were stuck together, just a bit of old grease I thought, no they had been hammer peened together (so no retard from vac) Out came the dremmel
luckily I was able to do a half decent job and the thing survived.
Sorry this so long.
Replaced dist with approx timing car started ok, idled around 2000
Leaned out the pump got it down to below what it should be and start increasing a couple of clicks at a time.
Got it to where I knew it was lean but good enough to drive, took it to put it on a machine (small garage does mostly fleet work but shop forman 15year porsche guy, hired because owner is PCA)
It was just under 2 for co and thru' the roof on hydrocarbons.
Had a rest for a few days. Gave it a few more clicks took it back
4.3 on co and the hydrocarbons 800. It runs well.
I did have to redo the butterfly rods, I don't know why, I really took a lot of care when I did them, I will be checking them again soon!
The guy at the garage said he was impressed and added that maybe one more click (richen) would make it perfect and would also reduce the hydrocarbons further.

I don't understand the hyrocarbon measurement, he is obviously correct because from under 2 to 4.3 on co brought them down dramatically, but it's unburnt fuel isn't it? So why would richening it dercrease it.

Anyway, for you S MFI owners he said the early S was like a dirt bike, point and go. Interestingly he added that they, to his knowledge, never worked on an MFI, they never failed in warranty
and we never saw them again, they probably all went to Fred (I Service Imports)

Total cost of project less than $200
Includes sensors stolen from neighbor, oil change engine and gearbox, plugs, poiints, valve cover gaskets and the little rubber bit for hand throttle, and plenty of cleaner! (and speed switch)

So now I know what a T really goes like, anyone with an S in South Jersey!

Thanks again everyone, sorry this was really long, but I wanted to include my mistakes and the probs I found to help others.
Jeff
A much better 911T

[Early_S_Man]

Jeff,

I am glad to read of your success! I applaud your persistence, and must say it is a pleasure to work with someone who is willing to work through long troubleshooting procedures, and who does not give up or is not just looking for 'the quick fix' ... unlike most who are not actually interested in finding out how the fuel, electrical, and ignition systems work, and the complex relationships between subsystems!

Yes, the MFI engines are marvelous when running properly ... and it isn't too hard to imagine that you have half of a 917 engine under the deck lid when you hit 6500 rpm going through the gears! Something that owners of the later, quiter, tame 'whooshmobiles' can't quite understand ...

[Cornpanzer]

Way to go Jeff. I wish Ihad the patience and desire to tackle the project the way you did. (And now I have Warren's post making me feel guilty for taking mine to a specialist) J/K Seriously tho. Thats a very complicated little system and you should be proud of what you have accomplished. Heck, I learned a ton just watching someone else work on it for me They sure are a different animal when they are running correctly, arent they?

[jeff m]

Dave
Matbe sometime you could post details of your low 12 sec V dub.
Some may consider it a bit off topic, but if the discovery that Sarah has a "full tool kit" qualifies, then I think it should be ok.
Worst they can do is shift it.
Jeff
911T

[warment]

Stupid question, but does anyone know what the timing should be set at for a 1973 911 T with mech. fuel injection?

I had my engine converted to a 2.7 RS, so should that change the appropriate timing setting? I am planning to buy a timing light soon so that I can get my timing in check...

Bill

[Early_S_Man]

Bill,

Check your distributor model number ... if it is a Bosch 0.231.184.004 (replacement RS 2.7 distributor) then you would use the RS 2.7 specs below, otherwise, the 2.4 specs would apply:

[warment]

Thanks Warren.

As far as I know the distributor was not changed when the engine was rebuilt...only a new cap and rotor was installed. I guess you got the timing for my 2.4 T from the Check, Measure, Adjust manual? I just wanted to make sure that the setting should be the setting for the 2.4 dist.

Bill

[Early_S_Man]

Bill,

Those pages are from the '72-'73 spec book ... originally posted in the 'distributor lube' thread last year:

distributor lube...