WTF!? (Where's The Fire) '78 SC Random No Start

[911SauCy]

All,

Went to jump in Eva last night to get some gas and level off the oil before a solid flogging tomorrow. Jump in, turn the key, all lights buzzers etc are on, car is cranking strong...cranking strong...now we have oil pressure...stillll cranking....now I can smell raw fuel so I stop.

There is clearly no spark, fuel is smelly, pump is on, ignition box is making its noise, plug wires are all good (incl master blaster) and everything else was good. Even stuck my head in the fuse box to start with other easy stuff, all good.

Strange thing that happened following numerous tries to get it started... When I turned the key, instead of it going through the stages, and ending with the sprung "start" portion. The key turned all the way and basically bottomed out, no sprung feeling on the key or starter action, but everything else was operating as normal, buzzers/lights/ign. on etc..

My fix was WD-40 down the keyhole and a little jiggle (I'm sure isn't a long term solution) but it started right up after that. And like 6 more times on my short adventure without issue.

Any thoughts on what needs to be fixed/refurbished to remedy this or previous experience is greatly appreciated.

[Flat6pac]

Sounds like you have to change the ignition unit behind the key. far easier to remove the whole key and srteering lock assembly than trying to change the unit in the dash.
No. 911.613.017.01


Ignition switch 96461301200, oem New

Bruce

[tirwin]

If I understood you correctly, that sounds like my car when I bought it. Previous owner was trying to fix it when I bought it.

The ignition switch has two parts -- the mechanical portion the key goes in and the electrical portion that gets engaged by the mechanical side. In my case the mechanical portion was worn out. Tumblers in the cylinder were worn and the pin on the backside that turns the electrical part would not engage. PO was starting the car with a flat-blade screwdriver. The electrical portion was hanging below the dash and I'd have to grab it and stick the screwdriver in and twist to crank the car.

First thing I would do is make sure you have a good key that is as close to original as possible. By that I mean one that is not worn. Second thing I would do is call Tony Euganeo. You can PM me for his contact info or do a search and you will find his info. If it's just your tumblers are worn (fairly common) he can advise you on what to do next. Every 911 originally had a card that came with the keys that had a 3-digit number on it. If you have that Tony can make you a new master key. If you end up having to buy the whole ignition lock assembly like I did then Tony can match the tumbler to your existing key so you don't need to carry two keys.

[911SauCy]

tirwin.

I did actually have a couple key copies made as the original was very warn.

Let me throw one more random symptom that might have a sliver of correlation... At all speeds, the speedo reads steady and properly. But when stopped at idle, the needle produces a bit of an erratic heart beat, if you will. Just a tiny jump, no more than a needle width, but motion nonetheless...

Thoughts? Correlation?

You're thinking the electrical is good, but the mechanical tumbler is the issue. If that's the case, why would everything else with key-on work? One faulty pin in there? Your car pulled the same crap until you were giving it the 'ole flat-head massage?

My brain goes crazy with stuff like this...

I.E. This would be a great time to do some trick stuff: Make a master power switch, disguised as one of the hvac controls not in use. And turn the cigarette lighter (which still works) into a push button start :0)