IIRC, the Motronic system in an '85 is pretty "dumb", and there is no capacity for "learning". I could, of course, be wrong on that.

The Cap'n

Agree with posters as to not having to mess with the pedal cluster, as well as it being a PITA down there. I just finished a pedal bushings rebuild and replaced a broken clutch cable. I did go with the bronze kit, however for the bell crank bushings I went back to the originals for two reasons. One I cracked mine when I accidentally used a hammer instead of rubber mallet during installation, and two the nylon felt smoother against the metal bell crank rod, plus no one sells just those 2 bushings by themselves.

Enjoy your tinkering....

901-423-253-00-M105

Todd

Keep Us Updated - With Photo's
 

Todd,

I found the same thing as I was adjusting linkage for my carbs - the rest of my pedal bushings were replaced with bronze bushings, but the pedal lever wobbled like it had no bushings at all.

If you pull it off without removing - appreciate if you can document and photo your process.

Thanks, Gordo

Bushings showed up today Gordo (just the accel bushings). My new baby girl showed up this week too ;-), so may or may not get to it in the next day or 2, but hoping so. I'll take pics and let you know how it goes.

Todd

Well, that was a lot more worry than necessary. Put bushings in freezer and they slipped right in. Took all of 20 minutes. Haven't checked too see how much better it feels, but no more wobble.

Bushings
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409958598.jpg

All separated
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409958776.jpg

Test fit before bushings get pressed in, just in case
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409958842.jpg

Good as new (need a new cotter pin, and vacuum up after drilling for Rennline pedal covers)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409958908.jpg

Todd

Sweet...
 

Thanks Todd,

Will add that one to the quick project list of things to do while I'm working my linkage.

Gordo

Draco, I found your comments on replacing the accelerator cable bushings in the tunnel, but, as this is my first porsche, could use some further clarification on the one under the shifter: You suggest marking the shifter housing before taking the bolts out and moving it out of the way-do you mean marking it for front to back and side to side orientation on the tunnel? Other two bushings are completed as you described...thanks for the help!

Ok, I think I've got it: you're taking out the shift lever coupling and rod as an assembly so you mark the connection at the rear coupling to get it back in the right spot.

I'm going to see if I can get the accelerator cable bushing without removing that.

If I can't, now that I'm in there, I think I'll order the rest of the bushings in the shift assembly and do the accel one when I do those...

It's not like I dropped the engine by myself, but I'm going to reward myself with cold Banquet anyway!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1417299985.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1417300025.jpg

Speaking for 3.2s, if you haven't replaced the accelerator pedal arm bushings, PLEASE take all of 10 minutes to inspect. This is a safety issue. Our toys are old.

I was on the interstate, went to pass some traffic, pedal got stuck WOT! I had just up-shifted from 4th to 3rd and so my instinct was to try to pop it out of gear since my hand was still on the shifter. Shifter was jammed and wouldn't pop out of gear, my guess is because it was under full load. Fortunately my next instinct was to put the clutch in to remove the load (RPM limiter works, check!). I got home and upon inspection the plastic (nylon?) bushings were nonexistent! WTF puts a plastic bushing in a critical path? Why Porsche does and so they just won my Engineering Excellence Dildo of the week award.

So... perusing our host with the most, PP has a Stoddard kit for the cluster. It has bronze (brass?) bushings for the accelerator pedal arm (same for the other pedals too). I suspect these are superior to the plastic OEM replacements. Replacement was quick easy and did not require any removal of the cluster. Took all of 20 minutes for the accelerator pedal arm portion (spent some time cleaning things up). Do save the washer cotter pin side, the kit doesn't come with one (WTF Stoddard?)! I have saved the other parts and will get around to the rest of the cluster as time permits.