Replace accel pedal busing in situ
 

Well, I just went to install my new Rennline REV2 pedal, and find the gas pedal bushings are non-existent. All other bushings were replaced by PO (according to some receipts I read through), not sure why that one was skipped.

Anyway, need to order a rebush kit it looks like.

My question is, with the bronze kit, am I going to be able to get the new bushings into place without removing the pedal box? There is no other sloppy movement, just the gas pedal.

Todd

What? The accelerator pedal on an 81 is a plastic/rubber hinged piece with no bushings.

Post a pic pls?

Not the pedal itself, down at the cluster where the rod from the pedal and the accel rod down to the transmission bell crank meet.

Todd

I did my '87 with a Rennline replacement accelerator. No bushing required. Post pics if you're having difficulty.

Good luck!

Just saw your last post. There should be helper springs to take up the slack both at the pedal itself and at the throttle body I believe.

Pretty sure there is a bushing in there on both sides (well, supposed to be, mine is missing). Here -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409418589.jpg

The whole thing I'm holding wobbles about a quarter of an inch.

Todd

When the accelerator bushings fail, no springs are going to help. When my accel. bushings failed I was running up through the gears entering the interstate and the throttle was stuck at WOT... an interesting experience as the accel. pedal just flopped around.

Even if the prev. owner replaced the other bushings and not the accelerator (which doesn't make a lot of sense) it might not be a bad idea to go ahead pull and replace all the bushings in the cluster.

Todd, you can tell by looking that the bushing has disintegrated, there should be no free play. No idea if you can replace it without pulling the cluster however.

Guess I'll order and try. No worky, my 20 minute Rennline pedal replacement will turn into a much longer job.

Todd

Yeap, you need the bushing there. it is tight but it can be done in the car. If you remove the seat your body will thank you :D Also re-check your throttle play to insure you get full throttle after replacement, it may take up or loosen your slack.

Patience and being careful will get you through this. It's really not that difficult to do it in the car. Take care with the cotter pin when you pull it, get all the bits of the old bushing out, press the new ones in with your fingertips. Lube the shaft.

The Cap'n

+3 or 4 on being able to do it in the car. Never any fun working down there, but doable. Saves lots of time.

I did'em in situ...

Working on the same thing for my 85 last night. Throttle not opening all the way, so I'm checking all the plastic bushings starting at the accelerator-one side of mine was totally gone. I bought a $4 small diameter brush at the hardware store and ran it in there to clean it out before I pressed the new bushings in. Hope to get back on it this afternoon.

What should I lube the "ball & socket" joints with, bearing grease?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409499873.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409499908.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409499960.jpg

Just purchased bronze ones this AM myself. I know they'll be harder to press in, but hopefully they won't be too tight to squeeze in with a C clamp or nut/bolt and some washers to press in.

Todd

I bet the bolt & washers would work. Take a look at the tunnel side of the tube with a mirror if you can. My tube had a slight burr on it, didn't worry about it with the plastic bushings but if you have one it might keep the brass from going in square...imho

Don't worry the brass ones slip right in, the pita is get the ball end cap off, use a small vice grip, hold it straight and push back until it pops off.

I found it better to disconnect at the bell housing to allow less load on the linkage while you are working on it.

Whoa, is that black rubber piece OEM? :confused:

Nevemind, it sure is. looks like a bushing in the PAG diagram. 901-423-193-00

I ended up cleaning the hard black stuff out of the sockets and putting in some lithium based multi-purpose grease with moly as the top "ball" for the pedal linkage was galled.

Checked my throttle after and it seems to be opening all the way now. First test drive last night I could tell no difference in the performance, but it was a short one. Second drive this morning was 90 minutes and felt a little zippier...

Does the '85 Motronic have to relearn anything since the throttle is now opening completely?