Yes, I did. About 12 inches worth. I could have got away with less, but I wanted the transition to be very gradual. I could run 225/45s without problem, IMO.

Digital level attached to a piece of square tubing just long enough to run edge to edge of the wheel. Bungie cord the tubing and level contraption to the face of the wheel. -J

TY Eric. I saw 225s on rear in post and now can't find. If anyone is running them... pls post pic. I just can't fathom 225 fitting.

Laser level I got... bubble. Thought for $19 it was good move. Now I see the light of digital - TY JAR. Just looked at Harbor F. They have digi level for $22.

I love harbor frieight... most of their tools are actually great. Make sure the level is accurate though. You are talking fractions of a degree here. Keep us posted!

Went out yesterday and did some gas-guzzling accells... I don't have sensitivity to feel the difference. Larger size does feel softer over all.

Setting aside equipment used to take alignment readings, here's tool list:

19mm sockets & wrenches - breaker bar, torque etc . . .
8mm Allen Socket for your torque wrench
12mm Allen wrench

Anything missing?

Thanks for link Ian.

One thing I found to be very important is the level of the floor. It needs to be PERFECTLY level from side to side where the tires sit. I used thin pieces of plywood under my tires to shim up my floor. You need to be within 1/16" of level from side to side or your camber measurements will be off. It is surprising how uneven most slabs are.

225/45/16 front, 245/45/16 rear on 8's and 9's.

http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/...psa1960216.jpg

How much camber are you running and what spacers do you have in the front?

$40 at Home Despot. Measures to tenth of a degree. Closest Harbor Freight is two hours away. -J

Husky 9 in. Digital Level-THD9403 at The Home Depot

TY Gordon. Have been thinking about where to set alignment studio up.

LJ... nice relationship of wheels/tires to fenders. Looks like you (someone) spent some time and knew what you were doing. 225 on front... interesting. Am talking with TirePlus guys about changing tire sizes for me so your post is timely. TY. (Nice pic!)

Convenience understood JAR. TY for product ref. Am posting images & price. If anyone has more... pls add.

Home Depot $40

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1411732724.jpg


Harbor Freight $22

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1411732849.jpg

Wheels are 951 fuchs @ 16X8 ET23, toyo r888 tires. I have no spacers on the front, approximately 1.5 degrees neg camber (max with stock parts) , no AC lines, and rolled fenders. The above mentioned mods are definitely more than the minimum required to fit without rubbing.

Went back to 205 / 50 front and 245 / 45 rears---guys at Tires Plus were very accommodating. Working longer than expected on AC. When done with that... am onto alignment.

My opinion...

I'd sell the 9's, buy a set of 7's and run 205/225 summer tires in a good brand. I think you'll find those tires to be junk. The car will drive a lot better and that's more important than how it looks sitting still, right?

JR

If 7's on the rear of an SC work for you JR, I'm all for it for you. My foolish taste doesn't accept it. Seems to me an SC's azz-end needs a touch more substance to fit the space. Aren't we 911 admirers because of, at least in part, 911 design? Definitely not claiming to be the correct interpreter of what should be--am firm believer in what floats one's boat does not necessarily float another's. What I'd like to do is get out of the 16's... and go to 17's.

I thought you had 8's and 9's. If you have '7's and '9's, my advice would be to swap the 9's for a set of 8's.

For me, it's less about how it looks than how it works. Larger wheels have a downside, which is weight and (usually) a higher moment of inertia. Makes the car slower...

I actually run 7&8x15, which is lighter yet.

JR

I see what you're saying JR.

Am running 8s and 9s x 16.