Turn sig. low/high beam switch

Silveresrty911S · Silveresrty911S's Garage

Since buying my car haven't driven at night much but last night discovered my high beams work but I have to hold the lever to keep them on. I thought on these cars they usually stick in the high beam mode, is this an easy fix? Do I have to get a whole new lever/ switch?
TIA, Rick

I just got the shift coupler bushings in yesterday and she shifts much better after a few adjustments, my first atempt had it starting out in 3rd gear

Next will be the shift rod bushing and the ball cap at the end of the shift lever

stinkpot · 10-06-2002, 12:48 PM

Mine did the same thing. I did it the easy way and replaced the switch, but you can probably fix it. When you remove the switch, you will see that there are a couple sets of "points" that close when the switch is in different positions. It's possible the points are dirty or burnt. Also, it's possible you'll have to bend the springs that hold the points to get them to make good contact.

If you decide to buy a replacement switch, bear in mind that the replacements available now have the newer style plastic stalk, so it won't match your wiper switch.

Regards,

Todd Sadowsky
'76 911S Targa

Silveresrty911S · Silveresrty911S's Garage

Todd,

Thanks for the info, sounds like I'll just put in a new one. Was it hard to do? Looks like I have to pull the cover around the steering wheel and then it is all accesible?

Rick

82SC · 10-06-2002, 06:25 PM

are you pulling or pushing the lever...??

you have to push to click the highs on...

you pull to momentarily flash...

hope that saves you a weekend project

RazorRacer · 10-06-2002, 06:31 PM

On at least one occasion, pushing the high beam forward didn't turn on my high beams. In fact it simply turned off my lights. Most other times the high beam works. So try it a few more times just in case.

Silveresrty911S · Silveresrty911S's Garage

82SC & RazorRacer,

Thanks for the tips, I'll try them tonight and see if they'll work.

Rick

vesnyder · vesnyder's Garage

Had similar issue with my high/low beams. Took the switch off and tried to celan it up but that did not fix the problem. Put a new switch in and no problems since!

Very easy job. Only potential problems is re-installing wires on the back of the headlight switch. Easiest thing to do is remove the push/pull headlight switch when hooking up the wires.

Jdub · 10-07-2002, 05:24 AM

Hey guys:

Nobody mentioned the need for relays for your lights. You might consider putting these in esp. if you decide to upgrade to H4s. Basically the contacts cannot take this kind of current draw and need a relay to handle this sort of current.

A Search will reveal much. Search on relays and Marcus or Sucro.

I will be doing this as soon as I get Marcus relay kit.

Jw

diy83sc · 10-07-2002, 08:20 AM

I did exactly as Jdub suggests. The relay kit I picked up for $20 US took the load off the signal switch, saving me about $80... Whenever I used the turn signal, the low beams would go out. Sometimes, the high beams did not work. This was the same with the oem lights. I've since upgrade to H4s and can't complain.

http://members.rennlist.com/msucro1/relaykit.htm

I have no affiliation and to my knowledge, Wayne does not sell these! You can probably build your own, but the costs are going to be similar. Marcus present a very fair exchange.

Tony

Jdub · 10-21-2002, 06:37 AM

Since my SC is a plain-Jane model (no power windows, one mirror, no fogs) I have enough room behind the fuse holder's metal base to put the pair of relays inside the base structure. I simply used a small strap with two holes on the outside of the metal that lets me tighten down the relays to the backside with a pair of nuts and bolts, the strap on the topside. Holds it in just fine!

All the wiring sits inside, with the bonus of a free fuse location (frontmost on the fuse rack) for my yellow power from the + terminal of the battery. So I wired the yellow wire from relay to the fuse holder, put in a blue 25amp, then from the other end of the fuse holder screwed in a soldered end of the yellow wire that runs to the + battery terminal. The white ground goes directly to a hole already existing for a small machine screw I prepared for this purpose. Smeared it all with dielectric grease.

Low beams work fine, and you can hear a distinct click as the relay handles the current. Have not yet pulled the signal stalk to clear the contacts and so have not put the high beam fuses back in again. I'll do this this week.

Two questions:
= Do you put dielectric grease all over everything, or do you screw in and make a clean dry connection, then smear the outside of your contact with the grease? I guess I'm asking if you use the grease as an overcoat, or if you use it inbetween wire and ground face? I do hope dielectric grease does not *prevent* proper grounding...
= What size is the steering wheel nut? I pulled the Momo front padding off and could not get a 1 and 1/4 socket to fit, so must be larger mm size I am thinking. Does anyone know the exact size?

John, confusing imperial with metric...

steve911 · steve911's Garage

Jdub-
the steering wheel nut is 27MM.

can you post a picture of your 'flying fuse' installation for the headlight relay? Is it as simple as cutting the hot lead from the battery to the relay and splicing in an inline fuse? I'm such a pansy when it comes to electrical stuff...

Superman · 10-31-2002, 11:35 AM

Don't know how big the nut is, but silicon grease should go over the parts first, and then connect them. It will certainly not inhibit the electrical connection, but it will inhibit the corrosion that attacks the contact area over time.

Jdub · 11-01-2002, 05:05 AM

Steve:

I used the very frontmost fuse position on the fuse rack, so there is no fuse outside of the fuse box proper, but instead a blue 25amp fuse, just the same in type and look as the others, at the unused (for my car) fuse position closest to the battery.

I have the relays under the metal structure, having loosened the two bolts/two screws that hold the fuse box to the body of the car to get them in. The yellow line runs to the uppermost position of this open fuse location, is held by the screw after having been soldered to emulate the "block" or "finger" end Porsche uses. The other side of the fuse holds the remainder of the yellow line, which is in turn soldered to a ring that fits nicely on the nut/bolt combination that holds the + battery cable.

Very simple. Very easy and you will like the look. However, keep in mind this can be done on my SC as it does not have fogs or power windows and does not have all that nonsense cluttering up the fuse box.

John, rolling his own windows