Help with broken intake stud please.
 

disaster strikes.

Talked to Richard from PMO today, and he mentioned I needed to swap out my intake studs to accommodate the insulators of the carbs. 11 out of 12 came out REALLY easily using the "double nut" trick. The 12th...not so lucky.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...e914501b21.jpg

I've never dealt with this before, and I'm on an incredibly tight timeline, with no time for a machine shop. Any suggestions?

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...81cb5021a7.jpg


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Google the term "drill jig".

http://www.sherbournemews.com/s2/assets/IMG_5661.jpg

http://www.sherbournemews.com/s2/s2-4.htm

Make yourself a jig with a drill slightly smaller than your bolt. Then use an "easy out"

....or do this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/192188-does-anyone-sell-fixture-drilling-broken-exhaust-studs.html

You can also try plug welding a washer to the stud, then welding a nut to the washer and then backing it out. Sometimes the heat from the welder helps break loose the stud.

I feel your pain as I recently went thru this with the exhaust studs.

Fortunately, the intake studs are probably less welded in place with less heat that happens with the exhaust.

There are several ways to approach this.

1) tape the opening of the port to keep dirt & metal shavings out.
Get penetrating oil on that stud now so that it can soak for a while before removing the stud.

2) try using an easy out. Do this by first drilling a pilot hole in the center of the stud. I would start with a very small drill bit and then move to a larger, then larger, then larger until you have a decent size hole (WITHOUT hitting the threads).

Since you have snapped off the stud below the surface, and it looks a little uneven, it might be difficult to get a pilot hold started in the center. It really needs to be close to center. You could take a piece of metal (like flat steel or aluminum), drill a hole for the existing good stud, then measure and drill a pilot hole into the steel. The bolt it down and drill your pilot hole into the stud about 3/4 of an inch.

Once you have a decent hole, use an easy-out (from home depot), and try to remove the stud. The easy out will grab the stud and turn it out. BUT, be careful as easyouts are very brittle and snap easily.

After the easy out works, use a M8 thread chaser to clean up the threads.

3) If the easy out does not work, or it snaps off, you can drill out the easyout with a dremel tool.

Last resort would be to use a Time Sert. This is where you buy an M8 Time Sert Kit. This has everything to drill out the stud, tap new threads, then install a time sert. This will allow you to use the original M8 size studs.


Here's some photos of my Time Sert project on my exhaust studs:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414200602.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414200634.jpg

Vern's instructions are very good but I really avoid using easy-outs on anything. They are a last resort as they are very hard, like Kryptonite hard and if they break off you are then really screwed.

I would try heat from a propane torch and a left hand drill bit. As most bits have a few binding moments when using, they usually just unscrew the broken stud as they work. Heat is key, not a lot of heat but enough to allow the aluminum head to grow but not the stud.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/415Pgd0zmUL.jpg http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41MNJY41XJL.jpg

Irwin Industrial Tools 11119 Metal Index Spiral Flute Screw Extractors with Left Hand Cobalt Drill Bits Set, 10-Piece - Power Core Drills - Amazon.com


The stud doesn't look flat so a drill guide is and excellent idea. Block up that port so nothing can go down. Be VERY patient and it will work out. Very, very patient....

Good luck!!!

I hate easy outs.
I have removed a few broken bolts with easy outs broken off inside them and it wasn't a fun experience. Get a very good quality easy out set from Mac/Snap On/Proto. Screw type seem to be a little stronger.
You must "Use the force" when trying to back out with the easy out so not to break it.
Keep in mind there is a reason why the bolt broke in the first place. The easy out will not be stronger than the bolt.
Heat/penetrant/patience.
It might help to hit the bolt with something like Dupont's Deep freeze penetrating oil just as you heat up the head around the bolt.

Stuff those intake runners. Things happen, no need to compound it.

Drilling these studs is not easy. At least its not a Dilivar head stud.

1. rotate engine so #3 ( Looks like this is 3 cylinder) intake valve is closed. fill up all the other intakes with paper towels and top the tops shut. Then stuff paper towels that are oiled down as far as you can into #3 leaving 1.5" clear from the top. Then tape off the sides.

Do you have access to a welder? Lay a nut on the top and fill the center with a weld bead welding it to the stud. Then just turn it out. If not, read on.

Get out your dremel tool. purchase one of these carbide bits.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363061255.jpg

Start milling the center of the stud keeping it as far from the sides as you can. Go down as deep as you can. You need a rock steady hand to keep it centered. I found these cut really well if you put a drop of oil. The oil will heat and burn. Right before it burns off the cutter will start making progress. When it stops, don't force it. put another drop of oil and repeat the process. It is SLOW!

Do not start with a drill bit unless you have a jig. Too easy for the bit to walk making a mess. You can convert from the dremel bit to the drill bit once you have a nice centered hole with some depth.

If you can locate some left hand drill bits the next step is easy. Drill them out one size at a time until there is very little sidewall left. They usually spin out by the time you get close to the edge. An Easy out will work well once you get to this point.

At least the engine is out of the car and easy to get to. Pull up a chair or stool. Get comfortable and start milling.