The former is very telling. You must have had noise in your crank trigger signal as both the tach signal and the trigger signal for the ECU are fed off the crank. If your tach signal dropped, your ECU also thought your engine stopped revving as high and fuel was cut like a rev limiter as you said/felt.

Oscilloscope would have found this.

Bored plated cylinders
98mm JE pistons 9.5 for single, 10.5 for dual (includes rings)
993 RS cams
Head rebuild (guides, seals, valves if required)
Rocker reface/rebush
Top end gasket set
misc hardware
SSI (compromise) or other 1 5/8 exhaust
Steve Wong chip for mods

This motor will meet your power goals in single plug, we have built a few.

We have also built a few motors with ITB's and bigger cams. With proper tuning, there really is no driveability issues. But it takes time (dollars) to tune all of the variables and make them happy at cold start, cruise, tip in etc. But these motors make 270+ RWP...

Thanks for the feedback Geneman - good to hear people's experiences. The non-plug and play factor of ITB/EFI is something I am worried about.

Hey Trader220, I'm in the philly area too. Do you know a reliable , reasonable place to get my car dyno'd? I'd love 2 find out my RWHP.

-d

Watching with interest .........

230 hp...
 

I am still looking for an experienced pelican that resorted to a 3.2 to 3.4 conversion on a 1987-1989 carrera. no regrinding...
Please advise in detail what parts were used, preferred brands, and what results have been achieved?
I am not using my car on the track, just pleasure driving but would like to increase torque in lower gears.

Fun 3.2L
 

I rebuilt my 3.2L with the intent to improve lower RPM torque - and succeeded...

Not sure what my #'s are, but I plan to run it on a dyno sometime this fall - primarily to fine tune the ignition, secondarily to see what the #'s are. The #'s don't really matter to me though - its hitting the mark for what I was looking for with regard to drivable power...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/785959-gordos-3-2l-engine-rebuild-ready-reassemble.html

Not cheap and rebuilding yourself can be time consuming but it was and is a great experience.

Gordo

There really isn't anything different in a 3.2-3.4 conversion on a 87-89 car than any other Motronic 3.2, or for that matter a 3.0 to 3.2 conversion on a 78-83 91 SC, aside from the fact your rod bolts are made of string cheese and should be replaced with ARP or Raceware.

You remove your 95mm pistons and cylinders and replace them with 98mm Pistons and cylinders.

When I did mine, I found a good set of used Mahle Max Moritz Pistons and Cylinders, and then sold the pistons and replaced them with Mahle RSR pistons.

Now there are a couple of different options out there, aside from the Mahle Motorsport set, you can get a set of Nickies, available from our host, or get your existing cylinders bored out and replated with new pistons. EBSracing does that, others may as well.

If you have the heads off, it is silly not to get the cams reground to 964 profile, it will make more power and still pass smog.

The more I kick it around the more I am thinking of doing just that. The 3.4 conversion with cams cams, I don't have to worry about smog and we get 93 octane gas here so I don't think I'll need the twin plug. While the heads are off its probably worth working on those too.

Thoughts?

Thanks emcon5...in following your suggestions of 3.2-3.4 conversion , and assuming that i already have a free flowing cat and a free flowing Monty muffler and a Steve W 91 Octane chip, what do you believe my total HP will approx be?
Also what compression should I set and which 964 cams should I use

If you will consider changing to 3.4 p/cs, then that will be more practical than a high strung 3.2. You can easily achieve your goal of 230+ rwhp while being as quiet as stock, on pump gas, and deliver the low and midrange torque of a larger displacement that a 3.2 doesn't have.

You can send your cylinders out to EBS Racing to be rebored and replated to 98 mm, and they can supply you the Mahle 98s 9.8cr for the setup. Thsse pistons are dome shaped for single plug so keep the motor as such. You can stay with the stock cams, or go with cams such as 964, 20/21, 993SS etc. If you go with 964 cams, I prefer using factory cams and cutting off the power steering lobe, as Porsche factory cams are very precisely ground. Bore the throttle body, use a modified or different air filter intake, and either use the stock exhaust, or if you go headers, be sure they are at least 1 5/8" O.D. Do not use SSIs or similar as they are too small and will choke off the motor by at least 10 hp across the rpm range. I have never seen a 3.4 with SSIs exceed 220 rwhp on a Dynojet, even with every trick in the book done to the motor, whereas simple 3.4s with a completely stock exhaust including a cat and stock muffler have no problem matching or besting 230 rwhp on pump gas.

Steve...regarding your 3.2 to 3.4 response...
Are you suggesting a regrind of my P/CRs rather then buying new ones because of cost differential?
ALSO...I do have already a 100 cell cat and a 2 in 1 out monty muffler (free flow) and your 91 octane chip...will the set up as you describe will complement them or?

Steve...regarding your 3.2 to 3.4 response...
Are you suggesting a regrind of my P/CRs rather then buying new ones because of cost differential?
ALSO...I do have already a 100 cell cat and a 2 in 1 out monty muffler (free flow) and your 91 octane chip...will the set up as you describe will complement them or?

Doing absolutely nothing else, you should get ~6.4% more power than you have now (3164cc to 3367cc. is ~6.4% more displacement).

You can get your existing cams reground. Mine cost $275 from Elgin, but that was 10 years ago.

If you can stay with one plug, that would be preferred, that adds a lot of extra cost.

The cost of this makes doing it outside of a needed rebuild pretty damn expensive. If you need new pistons anyway, going to the higher displacement is almost a no brainer.

Steve Wong's chips are worth every penny, you pay for it.

check this

Pelican Parts Technical BBS - View Profile: Brando

.

I am guessing you are referring to this:
Any idea of the source of those numbers?

I am really skeptical that headers and a chip are going to get you 260+ HP from stock internals, no matter what fuel you run.

i believe those figures were supplied by Steve Wong?

Instead of going to all the trouble discussed above, why not just throw a nice reliable 993 engine into your car

here's a comparison of the thrust available from a healthy 993 3/6 vs a very healthy 3.0SC w/ going though a stock 915, no muss, no fuss, stock reliability and idle
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1415050696.gif

Steve,

I am considering the 3.4 bump with cams, and throttle body bore as the best option to achieve sounds like exceed my goal.




In terms of exhaust, I am already running the M&K pre muffler and 1 in two out, stock heat exchangers. I was going to stick with that exhaust set up.

I am also running your chip for that setup with 93 octane. I am guessing I would need a different chip with the new P&C's, Cams and throttle bore? My other question is on the air filter / intake. Whats your suggestion? Is it really necessary?


Thanks

By the way.... the RWHP is an easy to use/grasp bench mark what kind of torque increase would a set up like that make.


Bill V..... that thought has crossed my mind continuously. I don’t possess the skills to do the job, or the time for that matter, so the cost becomes prohibitive. IMHO that’s really the best solution.