![]() |
|
|
|
Registered User
|
Pertronix with no CDI
I'm trying to track down a misfire problem with my engine. I've worked on the CIS until there seems little opportunity for improvement. For various reasons I had no faith in my original ignition (CDI, Bosch distributor), especially the coil, and decided to replace it with a Pertronix for diagnostic purposes.
SO I avoided using the CDI and existing coil. This is what I did: ![]() The engine runs OK after setting the timing. It seems a bit angrier (which is good) and I'd swear that it's running hotter. BUT there is still a bit of a misfire and the tach is jumping a lot and possibly indicating a bit high. The tach jumps may be linked to misfires. I haven't driven it yet. Does my wiring look OK? Any ideas for what causes the jumps? Would it be stupid to try running wires all the way from the battery? |
||
![]() |
|
Registered User
|
Well, I guess that silence is good! Nobody has said "Oh my God - your car is going to blow up!".
As an afterthought I plan to add a diode around where the green box is on the old points lead. I only need the current to flow in one direction: from the tach to ground through the Pertronix, so it might be a good idea to make sure that it can't go in the other direction. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Why did you remove the CDI?
__________________
RGruppe #79 '73 Carrera RS spec 2.7 MFI 00 Saab 95 Aero wagon stick 01 Saab 95 Aero wagon auto 03 Boxster 90 Chevy PU Prerunner....1990 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered User
|
I think that my CDI is good - it whines away happily - but I wasn't sure. I wanted to remove the entire original ignition system and go from there. I may well add the CDI back in, although I saw a note in the Pelican product catalogue that the Ignitor II is not the one to use with CDI.
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered User
|
Hi Folks
I could really use some help with this! Since changing to the Pertronix my tach reads strangely: when I am idling the tach says 2000 RPM. Then when I get up to about 6000, it jumps back to 4000 and starts again! It worked fine before the change ... although I think the engine is running much better, probably because of the new coil. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: S California
Posts: 7,972
|
Quote:
__________________
1970 911E Sportomatic Albert Blue 1971 911T Sunroof Coupe w/ Twin Plug 2.5 MFI 1973 911E Glacier Blue 1973 911E RSR Tribute Viper Green w/ 3.5 Twin Plug MFI |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 12,655
|
The reason for CDI is a hotter spark and quicker recovery time after the coil fires at higher RPMs.
For lower RPMs a Kettering ignition will work just fine as long as the coil is designed for the service. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Quote:
I had exactly what you describe when fitting a Pertronix ignitor to my '73 MB 450SL. (Dont think there is any connection with the misfire.) It was recommended that I simply install an 11.5K ½ watt resister, but I never got round to it before I sold the car. I was going to buy a small tach adapt box (from Bob Ashlock ??) There is a good description of the unit somewhere in past posts. Peter PS: Try some NGK Iridium plugs Last edited by zelrik911; 11-08-2014 at 02:02 AM.. Reason: NGK |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Around Boston
Posts: 2,029
|
A while ago I follow this videos. It cleared a lot of things.
And it was a similar installation without CDI. Completely eliminated. Needed a tach adapter though... My distributor had to be rebuilt because of the mechanical advancement. It would work well and then went completely out of time. But that is a different issue. Hope it helps Electronic Ignition Install - 1967 Porsche 911S (Part 1 of 3) - YouTube
__________________
RSA Pinky Helga Turtle Carrera Luigi CDtdi Last edited by faverymi; 11-08-2014 at 05:16 AM.. Reason: . |
||
![]() |
|