Engine seems flat 3.2

[jlex]

I've learned over the years never to pull the plug wires on a warm engine if you can help it. I've pulled wires out of the heads that way or have disturbed otherwise good wires. Too much fiddling with the wires while they're hot never did me any good.

[scarceller]

I made my own set of shorter cables and routed them like this:

I used a set of pre-built magnacore 8mm cables and then shortened them at the distributor side connectors. I also added a dab of silicone between the connector and the wire when I reassembled them.

Most likely your cables where arcing to ground inside the valve cover area. Bad cables tend to do this at peak power and hi-cyl pressures.

Originally Posted by ALXinNZ

You won't believe me but today I took the car out for a drive with my wife to the flicks. Car was playing up lots (worst it has been) so when we got home i was straight into the back of the car hunting. Tested exhaust temps again and number4 was about 50 deg C cooler than the rest. So put on a big glove and started pulling leads starting with 4 but all affected engine the same. However No4 , No1 and No3. Plug lead left their plug connector on the plug and had seperated. an hour later i had repaired as best i could until i can replace and the car runs way better. If i replace the lot Id say we might have solved it. I have had the leads on and off lots over the last few weeks so I am surprised that they broke and may not actually be the original fault. They were one of the first things i had tested too. Will wait and see as i will get a diy kit tomorrow and make a set up.

[ALXinNZ]

Originally Posted by jlex

I've learned over the years never to pull the plug wires on a warm engine if you can help it. I've pulled wires out of the heads that way or have disturbed otherwise good wires. Too much fiddling with the wires while they're hot never did me any good.

Yes,Lesson learned. Never happened to me before. Thanks for feedback

[ALXinNZ]

Originally Posted by scarceller

I made my own set of shorter cables and routed them like this:

I used a set of pre-built magnacore 8mm cables and then shortened them at the distributor side connectors. I also added a dab of silicone between the connector and the wire when I reassembled them.

Most likely your cables where arcing to ground inside the valve cover area. Bad cables tend to do this at peak power and hi-cyl pressures.

Thank you for all the help. I really appreciate it. Will let you know how I get on.
Ps Your engine looks cool. I like your intake set up as well.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by ALXinNZ

You won't believe me but today I took the car out for a drive with my wife to the flicks. Car was playing up lots (worst it has been) so when we got home i was straight into the back of the car hunting. Tested exhaust temps again and number4 was about 50 deg C cooler than the rest. So put on a big glove and started pulling leads starting with 4 but all affected engine the same. However No4 , No1 and No3. Plug lead left their plug connector on the plug and had seperated. an hour later i had repaired as best i could until i can replace and the car runs way better. If i replace the lot Id say we might have solved it. I have had the leads on and off lots over the last few weeks so I am surprised that they broke and may not actually be the original fault. They were one of the first things i had tested too. Will wait and see as i will get a diy kit tomorrow and make a set up.

Are you saying you just pushed the spark plug boot on more securely?
And this seemed to fix it?

[jlex]

Looking in the engine compartment at night while the engine's running can be helpful. You can actually see arcing in some instances if you have a grounding problem. In the late '70's I had a 914 that tried to strand me out in the country on a snowy night. If I hadn't spotted the sparking, I would have been up the creek for sure.

[scarceller]

Originally Posted by jlex

Looking in the engine compartment at night while the engine's running can be helpful. You can actually see arcing in some instances if you have a grounding problem. In the late '70's I had a 914 that tried to strand me out in the country on a snowy night. If I hadn't spotted the sparking, I would have been up the creek for sure.

Very true, but usually the wires need to be in bad shape for you to see this. If the wires are border line you may not see anything but once cyl pressures increase under load (like WOT) then the spark has a hard time jumping the gap at the plug so it will then arc to ground else where. Also if the plug gap is to wide it may also happen. The 3.2L cars running inductive coil (NOT CDI) have a gap of 0.7-0.8mm I suggest checking plug gaps as well.

[ALXinNZ]

Update.
Still issues. The leads did not fix the problem. It is better but not the fault.
Ecu Check in another car and is fine.
Variostat tested the CHT sensor and is fine.
So injectors away to be serviced and checked.
Will keep you posted.

[scarceller]

What about spark plugs? What are you using and what's the gap?

[ALXinNZ]

I am using NGK B8EGV . GAP .8mm have also tested bosch platinum 4's and NGK BPR6EY also .8mm Found the NGK B8EGV the best here .

[scarceller]

Originally Posted by ALXinNZ

I am using NGK B8EGV . GAP .8mm have also tested bosch platinum 4's and NGK BPR6EY also .8mm Found the NGK B8EGV the best here .

NGK B8EGV at 0.8mm is fine. But never use multi electrode plugs like the platinum 4's the old school coil in our 3.2L motronic cars may not have enough output to jump multiple gaps that wide. Stick to simply single electrode plugs.

[LOVEHZ]

Is there a trick to remove the WOT switch cable? Doesn't seem to just pull off and I don't want to damage the cable. My switch doesn't seem to be working and I wanted to test it. Thanks.

[ALXinNZ]

Originally Posted by LOVEHZ

Is there a trick to remove the WOT switch cable? Doesn't seem to just pull off and I don't want to damage the cable. My switch doesn't seem to be working and I wanted to test it. Thanks.

Two ways of testing.
Quickest is to have a helper. Engine and ignition off. Remove throttle switch plug put your multi meter leads on the top two pins of the sensor. Set to ohms and you will have a No Continuity reading. Get your helper to floor the throttle At this position you should have continuity. If not further testing is required.
Check the power to the plug, Ignition switch on ( not running) should be 5 VDC bettween plug terminals. If fine there is a chance it is out of adjustment. Get yourself a Bentley Manual. All test info is in there and is essential for the 3.2 owner.

2nd if you are on your own. Remove your ECM plug Its the big one under the seat. ( as I am sure you know) Then using your multi meter on Ohms put one lead on pin 3 of the plug and one to ground, No Continuity at this point. then put your foot on the gas pedal.... to the floor if you have Continuity then the switch is working. no Continuity and further investigation is required. tests all wiring from throttle switch to ECM plug and because it is in the car you can read the meter easy.

I am no expert but i hope this helps.

[ALXinNZ]

Thank You Pelicans. And Pelican Parts for all the help and Service.

With time running out I had to do a few things to the car before testing so no isolation pin point sorry but it is running very well so I am Stoked. Yes it is finally FIXED.

So in my last attempt at solving the issue. I had the injectors ultrasonic cleaned serviced and flow checked. ( they didn't test them first so have no data on operation before and after). They are even at 240cc.
I also removed the intake manifolds and replaced gaskets. I recommend buying the thermal spacers as well as the gaskets as they were all breaking down on my car and were hard to clean. took ages.

And I pulled the AFM apart and very carefully moved the manipulator arm to run a new track.



Bolted it all back together and BOOM all sorted. Running meaner and louder than ever.

So happy.

Thanks to all.

Thanks to Pelican for supplying the parts I needed in a timely manner.

Regards

Alex

[LOVEHZ]

Originally Posted by ALXinNZ

Two ways of testing.
Quickest is to have a helper. Engine and ignition off. Remove throttle switch plug put your multi meter leads on the top two pins of the sensor. Set to ohms and you will have a No Continuity reading. Get your helper to floor the throttle At this position you should have continuity. If not further testing is required.
Check the power to the plug, Ignition switch on ( not running) should be 5 VDC bettween plug terminals. If fine there is a chance it is out of adjustment. Get yourself a Bentley Manual. All test info is in there and is essential for the 3.2 owner.

2nd if you are on your own. Remove your ECM plug Its the big one under the seat. ( as I am sure you know) Then using your multi meter on Ohms put one lead on pin 3 of the plug and one to ground, No Continuity at this point. then put your foot on the gas pedal.... to the floor if you have Continuity then the switch is working. no Continuity and further investigation is required. tests all wiring from throttle switch to ECM plug and because it is in the car you can read the meter easy.

I am no expert but i hope this helps.

Thanks for the help. Tested my wot switch with the multimeter and all was good. Continuity tone on the multimeter made it very easy!

[ALXinNZ]

Somewhere in the South Island of New Zealand.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEbAJFL6Q5w&feature=gp-n-y&google_comment_id=z13siz3znrvfyxfga04civbhoynov134 55o