CIS - Need "While I'm In There" Advice

[DaddyGlenn]

After several years into my short winter project to refresh the suspension, I've gotten to the point where I have the CIS disassembled on the table.



My intention is/was to clean everything, replace injectors, rubber hoses, gaskets and o-rings, etc.

My question to the collective is......

Given that there were no noticeable issues when the engine last ran, what else should I do to/with the CIS "while I'm in there"?

[ManniB]

Sounds like a good plan of attack. You should add the injector sleeves and o-rings while you are in there.

- Manfred

[Bob Kontak]

It would be nifty to read up on bench testing the air valve/air device(s) and see if they work within specifications. Suspect you could rig a Mighty-Vac hand pump to them and check where they open. I do know you can squish the decel valve on the newer SC's to seal vacuum leaks (tighten up the diaphragm interface) but not sure about the earlier SC's.

The aux air regulator can be tested with 12V to see if it closes. Look through the hole and you should see a 1/3 maybe 1/2 moon shape. Put voltage to it and it should close in a minute or so.

Run the base of your intake runners over some 220 grit paper (on glass plate if possible) to check for and/or knock down any high points.

Check the operation of the micro switches. I don't know if or how many the 78 has. Additionally, aside from the basic open/closed functionality, they may have to be dialed in while the car is running. E.g., at a certain RPM the switch should open or close. That would take some research and fiddling with a multi-meter but it would be cool to gain comfort that they are working and at the right time.

Originally Posted by ManniB

You should add the injector sleeves and o-rings while you are in there.

+1

Here are my runners that I powder coated chrome and the associated refresh parts.

They looked spiffy for a couple months but they stained to easily. Note sanding marks on bottom of runners.

[Moozak]

Here's what I did last winter:

Install an Aluminum Airbox
6x intake manifold gaskets
6x intake runner/airbox sleeves
6x injector o-rings
6x injector sleeves
6x injector sleeve o-rings
1x thermostat o-ring
1x oil pressure switch
2x throttle lever (bell crank) bushings for the throttle linkage console on top of the engine
2x rubber bushings that secure the airbox brackets to the airbox (at cyl #6 & at the throttle lever console)
1x cold start injector o-ring
1x cold start injector spacer o-ring
1x throttle body o-ring
1x sensor plate housing gasket
1x engine breather gasket
new oil breather lines
new vacuum lines
Tested and cleaned injectors

Perhaps a little overkill, but many of the parts were pretty cheap and they would be hard or impossible to access with cis installed.

If I had been "really smart" I would have tested all of the components more thoroughly as Bob suggested. That way I would have found the airleak in the decel valve setting earlier.... Just my 2 cents,

Jon

[Hil911]

Get rid of that one discoloured intake runner. It's probably possessed by evil. ;-)

You COULD get the WUR rebuilt but since your car was running fine before, is that asking for trouble? I would check the fine mesh on the WUR intake to make sure that it isn't getting clogged. That TINY bit of dirt from when you fire the system up could be the straw that breaks the camel's back.

[Dave Kost]

Merry Christmas Glenn.

I would also test the air box for air leaks.

[DaddyGlenn]

Great advice. Thank you all.

Manfred - The injector sleeves and o-rings will be replaced.

Bob - I also had planned to test the AAR and WUR. But have now added testing the switches and sanding the base of the intake runners. I don't think I would have thought of that.

Jon - Everything on your list is on mine (or recently completed) with the exception of the aluminum air box. The decel valve is now on the list, too.

Hil911 - I think I will leave the WUR with a good cleaning and test. I don't want to open it unless I really have to. The intake runner is suffering from an oil leak I fixed a while ago. I'm sure I can exorcise the evil with a little solvent.

Dave - Good idea to test for leaks. I think I saw a thread on how to do that here.

[fanaudical]

A few esoteric things that are past the CIS:

- Check condition of the fuel lines coming to/from the CIS?
- Engine sound pad?
- Removing the shroud and clearing any debris off the oil cooler and cylinder fins?
- Examine engine wiring harness for any repair needs?
- Check the bushings at the top of the rear struts?

[DaddyGlenn]

Need some more help... I damaged one of the fuel lines while removing the engine, oh so many years ago, and I have misplaced the broken piece, but I have the ends and some replacement stock. My problem is, I have no idea how long it should be.

Would one of you kind folks (with a similar vintage SC) measure this line on your car and share your findings?

The line goes between the engine and the bottom of the fuel accumulator and is marked in yellow below. I'm sure it has a name. I just don't know what to call it.



Thanks in advance.