About to install Rebel Racing front bushings...

[zippy_gg]

I'll first install the crossmember and A arms by themselves to ensure everything is co-linear.
Then I will need to install the T-bards and and wondering what is the angle between the A arm and the cross member (A and B) should be at a starting point. The car is a cab and I am shooting for Euro height.
The first pic shows the "before", but the sway bar was still in place, and many new parts are replacing the old so I didn't take any measurements.



And here is new shiny stuff, some was powder coated and some has been painted since the pic was taken...

[Kemo]

Not sure if the starting angle will be an issue. I usually use a jack to get the height close and then put the rear cap and screw on the torsion bar end...if that makes any sense.

[DaveMcKenz]

What Kemo said. Measure hub center to fender lip at say 13", and hold that position with a jack. Then insert your adjusting lever in the center of its range and add the adjusting bolt. Put the wheel on and put the car on the ground. Bounce on the center a few times, then measure your height by the means you have chosen. You can probably get an inch or two of adjustment. You should roll the car back and forth a few feet because the wheels can't slip when static. If you are not in range, jack that wheel up a little and re-index the adjustment lever by one notch and repeat. Each front adjustment will also affect the same side and opposite side rear ans well as toe and camber.
Good luck,
Dave

[zippy_gg]

I don't have the hubs on yet, in fact I am still in the process of installing the A arms with no load. Everything else in on the bench waiting to be assembled.
Then I thought the next step was to install the TBs and clock the arms at a certain angle, add the struts and button everything up.
I just want to make sure I am on the right track.
Thanks for the tip on the 13", as I was looking for a starting point.

[DaveMcKenz]

I started at 13" and it was too low. You might start at 14", but it's really only a starting point.
Good luck,
Dave

[zippy_gg]

Originally Posted by DaveMcKenz

I started at 13" and it was too low. You might start at 14", but it's really only a starting point.
Good luck,
Dave

Thanks Dave!

[zippy_gg]

A-arms in place with the Rebel Racing bushings.
Driver side has front bracket and cross-member already torqued and arm falls almost on its own weight. Success. Yes I will re-torque once the car is on the ground.
Good side


Passenger side, the A-arm falls easily when putting a 5 lbs weight in the ball joint but gets really stiff when get close to final torque. I tried adding washers and get the same results.
I then tried using the spherical washers, following Rebel Racing's instructions, and it is actually worse when I either properly torque the cross member or the front bracket...
Bad side


Any advice on the next step for the "bad" side?
I am so close and wanted to have wheels on the ground by the end of the weekend.

[RichardNew]

I'm thinking of putting the Rebel bushings on my '73.5. Elephant uses grease and that's not a good thing. Grease and dirt create a nice girding paste. Rebel seems to be a better choice here.

Actually I think rubber bushings would work just fine for a street car. Does Porsche even service these bushings any longer?

Don't talk to me about poly either. I know Poly is junk.

Richard Newton
Historic Racing Images

[Flieger]

Originally Posted by zippy_gg

A-arms in place with the Rebel Racing bushings.
Driver side has front bracket and cross-member already torqued and arm falls almost on its own weight. Success. Yes I will re-torque once the car is on the ground.
Good side


Passenger side, the A-arm falls easily when putting a 5 lbs weight in the ball joint but gets really stiff when get close to final torque. I tried adding washers and get the same results.
I then tried using the spherical washers, following Rebel Racing's instructions, and it is actually worse when I either properly torque the cross member or the front bracket...
Bad side


Any advice on the next step for the "bad" side?
I am so close and wanted to have wheels on the ground by the end of the weekend.

Did you turn the front mount upside down with the washers?

[zippy_gg]

Originally Posted by Flieger

Did you turn the front mount upside down with the washers?

Yes Max, I did when I tried the spherical washers, and turn it around again when I re-installed with no washers at all (side up is up).
The arm does not move when I put a 5 lbs weight on the ball joint, nor with 10 lbs but then a little push will make it fall.
I suspect I am not too far off but...
The arm moves fine until I get to about 85% torque.

[Flieger]

I guess some shims are in order.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by Flieger

I guess some shims are in order.

+1, this will help.

[zippy_gg]

I tried shimming but the issue remained...
Scratching my head but will resume efforts tomorrow. So many ways to skin a cat!

[DaveMcKenz]

Hi Zippy,
It sounds like your front and rear bushings are not co-linear on the PS. They could be parallel at different levels, or at the same level but at different angles, or both. The spherical washers may self adjust to a degree, but if the bushings are at different levels that may actually make it worse. I would try spherical washers, plus a shim in front or rear and see where the shim gives best results. Move the TA around a bit to let the sphericals seat themselves, before tightening.
Good luck,
Dave

[zippy_gg]

Dave, you brought a question to my mind: is it OK to shim the rear (cross-member)?
As I wasn't sure I haven't tried that yet.
The other question I have: If I use the spherical washers on one side, do I need to do the same on the other side even if it is currently fine?

[Flieger]

Only use the shims when necessary. I think it is easier to shim the front but there isn't any reason you can't shim the back.

[zippy_gg]

Thanks Max!
I am still learning about best practices on this car...

[zippy_gg]

Just a sanity check... The Service Manual indicates a torque of 47 Nm or 35 ft-lb for the front brackets bolts.
Rebel Racing doe not indicate any values at all so I am assuming I should use the "stock" torque indicated in the service manual.
Anyone aware of different torque values?

[DRACO A5OG]

Oui, that is correct! 47nM

[slow&rusty]

Might I suggest this thread:

Rebel Racing RSR Bushing (Front) A-Arm Install Question