1976 911S Build Thread

[Tcrate]

Greetings to all.
I recently purchased a 1976 911 S, Euro Spec with Turbo Flairs and here is my build thread. The car is in rough shape as you can see from the pics below.

The good:
Low mileage, 66,000 miles.
Engine was rebuilt at 34,000 miles.
Pop off valve added
Hydraulic tensioners added
Turbo valve covers
Bosch distributor
There is rust but I guess it could be worse
Fuchs in decent shape but will need some touchup

The Bad:
Car sat for 15 years at least. Reportedly inside for 13 and 3 years outside.
Sun roof leaks (needs new seal), which means interior was damp and moldy - NASTY to say the least.
Rust - Windshield area on right side, bumper mounts, drivers side torque tube area as well as heater duct, various rust spots on rear fender, door and others.
Clutch pedal goes to floor. Upon further investigation the throwout bearing is not connected to the pressure plate.
Engine turns but no compression. I did not try and start it after running leakdown and getting high rate of leakage through both intake and exhaust.
Will need painted and a new interior
seat tracks are rusted tight cannot move the seat which is making it hard to remove them.


Plan for the car:
1. Rebuild engine which I am 80% done with teardown.
2. Send heads and lower case out for modifications, inspection, cleaning and rebuild where necessary.
3. New clutch
4. Clean and repair CIS fuel system
5. Clean out the Oil tank and lines
6. Gas tank, pump and lines. replace fuel lines. Clean tank and pump?
7. Bleed brakes and inspect for function. Repair if necessary.
8. I want to get the mechanicals in working order.
9. Teardown for rust repair and paint. Back to original Orange.

[Tcrate]

So now you have the general idea of the condition of this car I do have some questions.

1. Heater Tube.
I dont see an issue welding this area shut however the heater tube inside is rusted away at the bend at the bottom. Any ideas on the best way to fix.


Engine Mount Stud broke the case. I am assuming this can be welded and retapped.


As well the Oil Pressure Plug area the case is showing signs of erosion. Should I also have this welded also?




Cylinder type:
So oddly enough number 6 cylinder has a good bit of magnetism but not the others. Slight if any on the others. Here are the cylinder ID's. Nikasil or Alusil? The ID is the same on all of the cylinders.





Case Savers: Looks like they left those out in the last rebuild?


CIS Repair:
I would like to give this to someone to go through. Any suggestions?

Last but not least. Clean the tank or replace?


Thanks for your input.

[Hil911]

Chipmunk city in there.

Yeh - Go orange!

[Tcrate]

Oh yeah. The Acorns were in the heater tubes, exhaust, top of the engine cover, under the engine cover. In the fins of the cylinders. Probably good I did not run this engine like that.

[timmy2]

Magnesium case, finding a welder to repair it will be tricky to say the least...
Mahle Pistons are Nikasil as far as I know.
Tony is the man I would contact for CIS info. (boyT911sc)
With that many chipmunks I would spend some time inspecting the wiring harnesses. They love to chew the plastic. I know someone if you need advice on the harnesses...
For the rust, check out the many restoration threads, someone has fixed that area before...

[Tcrate]

Thanks Dennis. I got your PM on the wiring harness, I will let you know on that one.

[timmy2]

No worries on the harness stuff Tom, you have a lot of other work ahead of you before getting to that point.
How extensive is the rust, I remember you posting about the car in September?
Are the flares Steel or Fiberglass? Should be an interesting project.
Can you get a dremel in to remove the bolt heads on the seat rails if a ton of PB blaster doesn't work?

[Tcrate]

Flares are fiberglass. There is just spotty rust. Front Fender just below the headlight, Drivers side door, Rear fender, Roof has bubbles, Jack port on drivers side is rusting out. I am sure there will be more once I get into it.

I think either the dremmel or I have a small belt sander that is long and narrow that I might try to get the bolts ground down. It would be nice to get the sliders loose but I am not sure that is going to happen.

[Tcrate]

I think I just answered my own question on the cylinders.
Pistons are numbered 90L61...... Except for number 6 which is 90L58. So looks like I have 5 Alucil's and one nikasil. Explains why number 6 cylinder is magnetic and not the rest. I guess they only wanted to replace on cylinder/ piston set and not all on the last rebuild.

[tassie targa 76]

Can't wait to see your progress as another 76 owner, but definatley plus 1 on the Timmy 2 wiring.

[Tcrate]

How many miles on your 76 and have you gotten into your engine yet?

[Tcrate]

I am getting ready to send the case and heads out for rework so I can focus on some other things to prep before the engine goes in. A couple of things are:

1. What is best option for gas tank. Now that it has been sitting I plan on scoping it for rest etc. What is the best option cost wise buy new or have the old one cleaned and coated? I do plan on replacing the fuel line and testing/cleaning the fuel pump also.

2. I plan on taking the oil tank off and cleaning it in my parts washer with mineral spirits then having it painted. What should I do with the oil lines. Take them off the car and flush. leave them alone? Any other suggestions?

Thanks.

Tom

[CountD]

Trash the tank. It's not worth it. For the price of having one boiled and coated these days (and it won't be as good), you can buy a new tank here from Wayne. Just buy it here and be done with it.

[Jmorski]

Another mid-year getting a new lease on life, I love it!

[Tcrate]

Makes sense. I did just get a call back finally from a local renewer and his price starts at about the price of a new one. I think new one it is.

[Tcrate]

Well an update and a few questions.
Engine case is out getting case savers, cleaned and checked for other needs such as whether it will be line bored, etc.
Looks like I will be ordering new pistons. With 5 Allusils, 1 nikasil and one of the Allusils damaged I think the best is to start fresh.
I have replaced front and rear seals on the trans, cleaned it up and will be changing fluid.
Also need to put a new clutch fork on as the old one was broken.

Cleaned and regreased all the CV joints put new boots on and will be replacing bolts. I do need 12 CV locking plates if anyone has any to sell.

Started working on painting parts. I had a batch powder coated but I am not all that happy with my powder coater so I am going to paint things like the heater fan box, the starter and some other parts. with high temp. paint.

I did pull the gas tank. Pics attached. After draining quite a bit of brown and rusty gas I am convinced to buy a new one and not mess with renewing. I am also going to replace all the fuel lines, filters, accumulator. I am going to test the pump and see what it looks like.
Hard Poly lines going through the tunnel on this car. Still debating what to do with those.

lastly I am looking for some opinions direction on the oil tank and lines. Pictures attached. The lines are in decent condition. At least not all rusty. However the tank does have spots of rust. It appears the tank is stainless. Can I get away with sanding and repainting. I would like to clean the inside in my parts washer. Maybe the best would be to scope it once I clean it out. I am nervous about sand blasting it so I am probably going to stay clear of that.

Secondly, I was able to get the oil line off the tank using heat but I broke one tube out of the thermostat housing. What is the best way of breaking these loose. I have Kroiled and tried heat on one but no success. Thoughts.

[reddogmotrsprts]

Try a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. The acetone does a great job of carrying the ATF into the smallest hairline cracks to help break loose stuck fasteners.

[Tcrate]

Good thought i forgot about that mix.