Wire Connectors

[Ayles]

Almost time to start wiring things up, will be limited to MSD box, vacuum and fuel pumps.

I don't think I really care for the solderless crimp connectors at least visually. Would the non-insulated (using shrink tube) style have any advantage over the plain old crimp/solderless connections?

[timmy2]

Open barrel connectors crimp both the wire and the insulation, Normally providing a more secure connection if done correctly.

[Ayles]

Are you talking about the kind that come in a few colors and have a plastic sheathing?

This is what I found so far:
http://www.amazon.com/Non-Insulated-Terminal-Connector-Piece/dp/B008HNKDOA/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1423686383&sr=1-1&keywords=non+insulated+wire+terminals

[NY65912]

I think using non insulated crimp connectors with good heat shrink looks like OEM. I have used this method for years.

Get a really good crimper, not the kind you have to get around the connector. Either a ratcheting type or Channelock makes a nice one that has both insulated/non insulated crimps that are done from the front of the tool.

[r-mm]

I'm in the middle of refurbishing the entire wiring harness on my Alfa. I like using the uninsulated connectors, it leaves you options for how to insulate them and you can inspect the quality of your crimps when they're finished. I knew I needed tons of the .25" spades so I bought a spool of a hundred from Mouser. If you need fewer, I'd steer you to British Wiring (don't worry, the parts don't know they're going on a german car). They sell with no minimums and don't have an overwhelming selection. Agree that a good ratcheting tool is essential. I use this one for open barrel connectors and a Klein 1006 for ring terminals and other uninsulated closed barrel connectors.

[Tippy]

I'd solder and use shrink wrap. Crimps can fail unless you spend coin on a really good set. Solder is cheap and nearly fault proof provided you had good wetting.

I twist the two bare wire ends in a spiral arrangement overlapping each other pre-solder.

[timmy2]

Cycle terminal has most of the correct terminals. Spend the extra money for the 3M adhesive lined heat shrink...
Get a good crimper with swappable jaws. They do wear out! (I am on my second or third set from building harnesses)
The one r-mm posted a link to looks like it would be suitable.

[tirwin]

Originally Posted by NY65912

I think using non insulated crimp connectors with good heat shrink looks like OEM. I have used this method for years.

Get a really good crimper, not the kind you have to get around the connector. Either a ratcheting type or Channelock makes a nice one that has both insulated/non insulated crimps that are done from the front of the tool.

+1

I bought and returned several crimp tools. I believe the pair I have are the channel locks. Went through a lot of junk before I found a good pair.

I have redone most of my wire connectors. I have used a combination of insulated and non-insulated with heat shrink. I tend to use insulated in places where water could get in and where you could more easily get a short in tight places. Fog light buckets are a good example.

When I installed Fred Cook's fuse panels I used non-insulated with heat shrink because the insulated connectors were too fat to seat over the spade terminals because of the plastic housing. And because they are longer it made it really hard to work with some of the short wires that had little slack in them.

Someone (timmy2?) posted how to make a 6-pin CDI cable for the MSD. I think it's in one of the threads on the Streetfire. (The +/- mag pickups need to be reversed on the Streetfire.)

I had a hard time sourcing good quality terminal ends locally. I ordered some online in all the various sizes, male/female, etc. I can try to dig up my order if you need it. I think I have a lifetime supply now.

[Ayles]

Lots of good info here! Thanks for the replies.

Can someone provide a link to the correct channel lock tool?

[Tremelune]

Just echoing sentiments here. I like uninsulated connectors with a good crimper and adhesive shrink-wrap. They make a version that is 4:1. It is glorious.

I get a lot of stuff from Waytek.

[timmy2]

Search for the Ideal brand 30-586 die and their crimpmaster crimp tool. Google will get you a lot of sources.

[NY65912]

http://www.grainger.com/product/CHANNELLOCK-Insulated-Crimper-WP5003416/_/N-c2x/Ntt-crimpernls=1&sst=subset&ts_optout=true&s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/5LJ55_AS01?$smthumb$

Search HT-225D Full Cycle Ratchet on Amazon. For an inexpensive ratchet type it works very well.

[McLaren-TAG]

To the OP no, there's no advantage over the non insulated versus the insulated. If space is tight when connecting the spades as has been mentioned the insulation can make things difficult. Plus you'll be dealing with the added labor of insulating them.

Now on the topic of welding, IMO there is a greater chance to hose a weld than there is a crimp. If you've got some practice and a good crimp tool like a Greenlee or Klein you'll make repeatable crimps than will outlast the car. Porsche didn't weld those connections either.

The only place I've found welded wires has been on Bullet connector ends, but those would be required as the crimping could warp the bullet shape.

Additionally if you buy a good quality spade, the plastic will be pliable, add to the dust and water protection and will make for a better point to grab if you've got to pull them apart at some point later on.

[T77911S]

i use the non insulated connectors. then i solder the tip end of the wire to the connector and heat shrink the connector.

many will debate soldering. but i use to do electrical work on cars and you would be suprised at how many crimped connectors fail. whats worse is when they are intermittent.
this is what caused an intermittent start on my brothers 911. it cost him a new starter and new ignition switch. i fixed it for free in about 10 minutes.

part of the debate has been that it makes the wire stiff and that can cause it to break. well that same vibration can work a wire lose from a crimp or cause it to break at the crimp. the solution is to use minimal solder and just solder the very end.

[Spark Chaser]

Try these. http://raychem.te.com/documents/webservice/fetch.ashx?fileid=8460&docId=927
They do require a special crimper, but do a search on eBay, they do come available sometimes.
They are generically called "mil spec" splices.

[tirwin]

My favorites are the ChannelLock 909 (9.5"). I like the ratcheting style crimpers others suggested but I find myself using these ChannelLocks more because they are easier to get into tight spaces.