picture steering rack

brokke · 10-25-2002, 02:57 AM

Hi,

Does anyone have a picture of the internal components of a 1973 streering rack? I want to clean and relube the rack.

Peter

Jdub · 10-25-2002, 05:55 AM

If there is a procedure for performing this I'd like to see it. Or, maybe it is so obvious that it'll be clear when I go in there!

Background is a complete suspension strip, including turbo tie rods to A arm bushings. Collecting information and want to be sure I am well-versed in this area!

Thanks much in advance,
John

KTL · 10-25-2002, 07:56 AM

Here's a snapshot of the procedure outlined in an old 914 Clymer Service Manual. Good manual. Wish manuals were still like this one!

If nobody else comes up with something better, make sure to remind me with a PM or something and i'll scan that section from the manual and post the pictures on my website.

APKhaos · 10-25-2002, 09:10 AM

These racks have changed little since the early days.
One area that has changed a few times is the way the bushing and seal is retained in the end of the rack - Kevin knows all about this.

Here is a pic [Thom, Widebody 911] of the most common arrangement, using circular star washers.

A heres a pic [Kevin KTL] of the 87-89 arrangement which uses a far superior circlip and groove setup.

silverc4s · silverc4s's Garage

Can the 87 to 89 steering box be retrofitted into older cars??? Just curious. Thanks in advance...

RoninLB · 10-25-2002, 09:34 AM

never did a rack re-build on my '77..I guess you need new seals and bearing..any micrometer/gear lash settings/shims ??..I didn't try to look up info in the books yet..............Ron

KTL · 10-25-2002, 10:45 AM

Can't say if the older steering gear can retrofit pre 72 cars. All I know is the 72 and up (to 89) use a 914 347 010 05 rack and the pre-72 cars use a few different 901 part number units.

Ron,

Yes, the Clymer gives you shimming procedure/clearance and a spec. for the drag (min. torque required) on the pinion shaft. Nice procedure really. I'll scan it this evening at home and post the pages for all to see.

I did not replace anything internally as I did not want to go thru the job of trying to find parts. This is something I don't have much of a knack for doing and it's been my experience (limited) that those who have the parts get bent outta shape for me doing the work instead of giving it to "the expert" to do the job. Whatever.

The two caps that are screwed onto the rack housing did not have gaskets (as shown in the picture) on my rack. I simply reinstalled the caps with new spring washers and sealed the caps on the outside with some RTV. I also reused all of the shims. The only part I would have liked to replace was the pressure block as it got scored pretty good somehow:

I just rotated the pressure block 90 deg. so the rack would ride over the groove. Gotta be better than it was before? I relubed the rack with the Clymer recommended amount of EP moly grease and it operates nicely. Can't say it's like new because I also replaced tie rods and ball joints as well. If I had just relubed and resealed the rack, I might have a better idea how my results are.

All,

I'd recommend doing this job to anyone who's replacing tie rods. I'm sure the rods are easier to remove with the rack in a vise. The rack is only held in there with two bolts on the chassis. The only other connection to remove is the u-joint inside the smuggler's box.

I made sure to mark the orientation of the rack to the rack housing before I pulled the pinion and slid the rack all the way out. Meaning, you could slide the rack out, spin it 180 deg., put it back in and things will work. I don't know if this is a big deal (kinda like swapping CV joints to wear the other sides of the joint if you ask me), but I wanted to put things back in just how they came out.

Also, be sure to measure and center the rack before reinstalling!