Replacing a shorted out tach wire

[Rick Sullivan]

I am trying to find some info on replacing the blk/red wire that goes from the back of the tachometer to pin 15 on the ignition switch. The wire chaffed against the metal frame and started smoking and I want to completely replace the damaged wire as well as inspect the rest of the harness. I have the following question: with gauges removed, I can see where the 14 or maybe 16 gauge wire goes into the harness and travels down (to the ignition switch). I removed the short harness that goes from the back of the ignition switch and has a small 4-pin plug on the other end. My question is;How do I get to the other part of that plug and therefore the red/blk wire? When I look under the dash the connector goes into a bowl-type portion of the body and is entirely sealed therefore preventing me from accessing the other plug with the red/blk wire. Am I correct in assuming that I must remove the fresh air blower for any kind of access? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[targa80]

There is a male/female connector that provides the pass through of the red/black wire from the ignition switch drivers side foot well through the frame into the frunk on the drivers side. To access those chassis mounted female connectors may require removing some of the vent duct work in the frunk. first isolate which connector it is on the underside of the drivers foot well. Then you can assess how much you need to remove in the drivers side frunk to access the mating connector. The connectors are molded rubber so you are not going to be able to replace it completely. I would start by unwrapping the insulation on the tach wire from either the ignition switch or the tach itself. If your lucky it is not fully burnt and follow it back to where the insulation is still sound. You can then splice in a new wire from that point.

[timmy2]

If you have really bad luck and the entire wire is burned through both sections of the harness including the connectors you may have to pull the entire dash harness and have me repair it with all new cast rubber connectors like I did for another member here recently...

Newly cast male and female rubber connector plugs with old melted wiring section pictured on the left. All new wires run to female plug as needed to termination point in fuse panel.