2.4 engine in a 67 SWB, general issues and problems, like Zeniths

[strictly]

My cousin has given me his 67 to work on. Its got a 2.4 engine in it, which was originally on mech injection, but now on zenith carbs.

Ive got a few general issues, problems and questions and would appreciate any advice.

1) Oil Pressure Light

The oil pressure light glows dim (bright before start up). Am i right in saying a 72 2.4 did not have an idiot light, and only a sensor for an oil pressure gauge?

The reason I ask, is i can only find a oil pressure "tranducer" on the engine, and it has occurred to me that if i replace that with a simple oil pressure sensor (the idiot light type) then the light should go out, as im guessing that is all the 2.0 SWB's had. Ive tested the oil pressure and its fine, im sure its just the wrong "signal". Am i on the right track?

2) Distributor

The distributor has a vacuum pot on it which goes no where (i.e not connected)....should I look for another distributor? I can pull the dizzy tomorrow, and get the number off of it.

If I were to attach the vacuum line, where on the zenith carbs would I attach it? Perhaps answer that question after reading the next one?

If the dizzy is from a mech injection, and the timing id 5 deg ATDC, do i use the same timing for the zeniths?

3) Zenith Carb enrichment - easy disconnect?

I pulled and cleaned the right carb today. The enrichment thing looked okay, and i didn't give it much thought until I looked at the set up of the carbs, and then i realized, that i cant find a micro switch or rpm transducer!

I have already stripped and cleaned the carb, it is possible to do an easy disconnect of the auxiliary enrichment circuit.

If so, does it go something like this?

A) Screw fully in the enrich adjust screw on the "octopus" AND the similar screw above it next to the idle jet
B) remove wiring from solenoid
C) plug vacuum line on left and right carb only - or do i need to plug all six?

Im tempted to pull the octopus, and tap the main bolt only, ive read m8 somewhere, but if just screwing the screws in will do the same job, then i'll leave that for another time

4) Carb set up

With the aux circuit disabled, is this the right way to start the carb set up

A) all 6 mixtures screws set at 2.5 turns out
B) all 6 idle bypass screws turned in fully (not too hard)
C) disconnect linkage
E) start engine, use the idle speed screws left and right to get a rough idle, and then start synchonising (ive read the procedure)

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Thanks in advance!!

[MJHanna]

Oil Pressure Light

The oil pressure light glows dim (bright before start up). Am i right in saying a 72 2.4 did not have an idiot light, and only a sensor for an oil pressure gauge?

The reason I ask, is i can only find a oil pressure "tranducer" on the engine, and it has occurred to me that if i replace that with a simple oil pressure sensor (the idiot light type) then the light should go out, as im guessing that is all the 2.0 SWB's had. Ive tested the oil pressure and its fine, im sure its just the wrong "signal". Am i on the right track?


Is it the oil pressure or the alternator light? what color and location is it?

[strictly]

Originally Posted by MJHanna

Is it the oil pressure or the alternator light? what color and location is it?

I know what your thinking it sounds like a bad diode in the alternator - but ive checked, its the light on the right, it should be green, but its worn out, and looks reddish. The light on the left is the alternator, which does go out.

Now, im fairly sure i checked the wiring colours, but I will double check that tomorrow when im in my workshop!

[47silver]

on my 75 (cis) not carbs, the vacuum is not attached and is not required as the distributor uses a mechanical advance mechanism. i think yours is the same.

[strictly]

Thanks for the info, Ive now fixed the oil pressure, and found an issue with the firing order, but ive got a few questions on timing/spark plug gap/etc if anyone knows the answer?

• The engine is a 911/51 (2.4 orginally on mech injection)
  
  The distributor is 0 231 169 008 (with JFUD 6 under it)
  
  I have checked the vaccum pot is working (sucked on it) and it has electronic ignition, its also running CDi
  
  The spark plugs are WR5DC (0.8 gap)
  
  The timing i have set to 0 deg BTDC (i.e TDC), although its supposed to be 5 deg ATDC

A) Now for the questions - spark plug gap, according to the book, it should be 0.55 for this engine on mech injection, and 0.7 on carbs, my plugs are 0.8 out of the box - reset to 0.7? Does CDi make a difference, or was that designed to jump bigger gaps

B) Timing book says 5 deg ATDC, seems to run a bit better at 0, Can I advance the timing as long as I stay at max 38 BTDC at 6000rpm, with no pinking or detonation on load or is this a no no, and i need to be at 5 ATDC more or less

At 0 degrees, the carbs are less "poppy". I havent checked the float heights, or yet thought about a fuel pressure regulator (aftermarket facet pump, not sure of model)