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gunlover05's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Knoxville
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yes I measured the resistance, but at the sensor plug in the engine bay, not at the dme connector.

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Old 03-29-2015, 04:04 AM
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Thanks. Anyone know what the proper reading (at the plugs in the engine bay) is supposed to be? I'd like to test mine to see how it compares against a known good value.
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Old 03-29-2015, 06:26 AM
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I got the upper sensor out but can’t get the lower one. Soaked it with PB Blaster and it turns freely but will not pull out. Anyone have any suggestions or words of wisdom to share?
Old 10-27-2025, 08:18 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #43 (permalink)
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Remove the bracket, put it in a vice and pull the sensor out. You might be able to turn it but not pull it out because the sensor metal case is sticking to the bracket.
I had to drill it out with a 15mm bit, but I was replacing it anyway. And I saved the bracket.
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Old 10-28-2025, 03:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlex View Post
Thanks. Anyone know what the proper reading (at the plugs in the engine bay) is supposed to be? I'd like to test mine to see how it compares against a known good value.
Speed and ref sensors are the same, and thus should measure about ~1.1k Ohms at around 68F.

CHT is similar: 1k Ohms at 68F.

You can ALSO measure for VAC when cranking: you should see a small +VAC pulse on the speed sensor and a very small VAC (about +0.2VAC IIRC?) blip on the ref sensor.
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Old 10-28-2025, 06:40 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #45 (permalink)
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@wazz THANK YOU! You were 100% correct, the sensors plastic body was seized in the bracket and was allowing the plastic portion to turn and not the metal portion. Removed the bracket and used a small socket to pound it out. The attached a 0.8 mm washer to old sensor to relocate the sensor correctly to the flywheel.

Old 10-30-2025, 06:17 PM
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