ignition timing

Farrell · 03-14-2015, 06:39 AM

hey guys,

i just backdated my heat and while doing the backdate i did not remove my distributor however, i hit it a few times and now the car runs like ****. its real delayed when i try and give it gas. starts and idles fine, but will not go. so is the easiest fix grabbing a timing light and adjusting the distributor until its back in place? is it that easy?

this is for a 82 SC. 3.0 engine.

thanks

rwest · rwest's Garage

If you hit it and it moved, yes getting a timing light and putting it back to spec should do the trick, although I can't see it moving very easily, so I would also check to see if maybe you cracked or shifted the cap, broken or loosened a wire, or did some other damage to the distributor.

Farrell · 03-14-2015, 07:21 AM

Ok great info. I just hit and moved the cap. I suppose that's what I was referring too. So I was thinking I'll be able to twist the cap back into place with a timing light. That shound right?

I looked for broken wires but everything looks good so far.

LJ851 · 03-14-2015, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farrell

hey guys,

i just backdated my heat and while doing the backdate i did not remove my distributor however, i hit it a few times and now the car runs like ****. its real delayed when i try and give it gas. starts and idles fine, but will not go. so is the easiest fix grabbing a timing light and adjusting the distributor until its back in place? is it that easy?

this is for a 82 SC. 3.0 engine.

thanks

It would be hard to move the timing by bumping the distributor. My guess is that the green wire from the distributor was on it's last leg and you knocking it around was more than it could handle.

rwest · rwest's Garage

The cap has a notch that is indexed to the distributor body, so no timing light needed, just get it back in its notch.

Farrell · 03-14-2015, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LJ851

It would be hard to move the timing by bumping the distributor. My guess is that the green wire from the distributor was on it's last leg and you knocking it around was more than it could handle.

Green wire is good. Just checked that. The battery light was on. I wonder if my battery is bad or I have a bad ground. My negative terminal doesn't have the greatest connection. I through it on the charger for now while I tinker with the distributor.

On a side note. I'm nervous because my air box does not have a pop off valve, so I don't want it to backfire and blow up the air box. When installing a pop off valve can you install with the air box in the car or do you need to remove the whole assembly to drill the hold and seal properly?

Farrell · 03-15-2015, 10:42 AM

Do you guys think it runs like **** due to some minor rubbing on distributor cap?

Maybe needs a little massaging out?

Farrell · 03-15-2015, 10:44 AM

Also when I recieved these ducts from parts heaven there were two open screw holes on top. I take it they are supposed to plugged?

al lkosmal · 03-15-2015, 11:01 AM

Farrel,
I noticed that you have one plug wire whose boot looks to be in bad shape and jammed into the duct. Is it possible that the duct is an interference fit with the plug wire/boot and the boot was damaged when you installed the duct.....and maybe the insulation is cracked and you have a short to ground there.

regards,
al

Trackrash · Trackrash's Garage

The hole where you have a bolt has a rubber plug on my '71. The other hole, toward the hose clamp contains my rubber spark plug wire loom.

I also have a spare duct that was used on an SC and it was "modified" with a hammer to clear the larger distributor on that car.

Farrell · 03-15-2015, 01:09 PM

I'm almost wondering if this has something to do with my CIS system? The car sat all winter in a garage, and now she mad. It bogs down when idling for a few minutes then Stales.

I just replaced the broken plug wire you pointed out and that did not fix the issue. I took some good whacks with a hammer at the heater duct to free up some space inbetween the distributor. That didn't do much either, beside make my ducting look crappy.

Anyways may have to take to a shop tomorrow.

Bob Kontak · Bob Kontak's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farrell

Anyways may have to take to a shop tomorrow.

You have a forum full of folks who can help you.

Why would you pay a shop to do something when you can do it yourself with a little help?

Farrell · 04:20 PM

I do need a hand. I'll take a video of it a post that up so you can see what's up.

The car is basically sputtering when you try to accelerate. Then has small backfires

Thanks all

Farrell · 03-15-2015, 04:56 PM

Ok, I decided to go back to basics and at least take the cap off and not be such an idiot...

I think it may help if this comes in one piece. It's always the simplest of things.

I'll order a new rotor tomorrow and that should solve the problem.

I should be able to just slap new rotor on, put the cap back on and good to go, correct? No timing needed since I did not move the actual distributor?

Thanks again all!

Bob Kontak · Bob Kontak's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farrell

I should be able to just slap new rotor on, put the cap back on and good to go, correct? No timing needed since I did not move the actual distributor?

You whacked the cap hard enough to kick it off it's mount and crack the rotor.

You want confirmation that the distributor did not move?

It probably did not move but there is no one here in this tech forum that will say you are A-Ok to go given we did not tighten your lock down nut.

A decent timing light is $50.

Also order your rotor from NAPA. Echlin number EP407. Get a cap as well.

Your new name is "Crunch".

All the best, Crunch.

emcon5 · emcon5's Garage

Looking at where the locking bolt is in the slot, all the way to one side, I would think it probably moved.

Farrell · 03-15-2015, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

You whacked the cap hard enough to kick it off it's mount and crack the rotor.

You want confirmation that the distributor did not move?

It probably did not move but there is no one here in this tech forum that will say you are A-Ok to go given we did not tighten your lock down nut.

A decent timing light is $50.

Also order your rotor from NAPA. Echlin number EP407. Get a cap as well.

Your new name is "Crunch".

All the best, Crunch.

Bob you're the man!

I'll grab a new cap and rotor tomorrow and a timing light and get her running smooth again.

Thanks guys!

Farrell · 03-20-2015, 08:04 AM

well, a small backfire ended up cracking the airbox and now creating a vacuum leak.

guess I'm buying a set of PMO 46mm Carbs. not gonna waste money on the CIS system.

just my luck!

fred cook · fred cook's Garage

If nothing else, use this as a good teaching lesson. 1) Hammers are not always your friend and 2) if in doubt, ask for help before getting in too deep. There is an endless list of folks here on Pelican Parts that will go out of their way to help answer questions and avoid making big boo boos! Now, while you are waiting for the PMOs to arrive, spend some time searching the BB for posts on doing the carb swap. Read a lot, make copious notes and develop a plan for the swap. You will be amazed at how much easier things will go!

Jerome74911S · 03-20-2015, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farrell

well, a small backfire ended up cracking the airbox and now creating a vacuum leak.

guess I'm buying a set of PMO 46mm Carbs. not gonna waste money on the CIS system.

just my luck!

For $250 you can buy a used metal airbox that will not crack, ever. It might take some fiddling to fit it, but not more work than installing PMOs. CIS works fine if all is well.