Should I replace rusty exhaust studs on my "new" B&B exhaust?

[sugarwood]

Billy Boat Porsche 911 Carrera Header Muffler Kit w Heat Exchangers B B Exhaust | eBay

Yea, this Ebay ad confirms it is Billy Boat with the stainless air box and muffler, but cast iron headers?
What are the upright slanted pipes protruding from the back side of the heater boxes? I don't think I have those.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by 86 ssinit

As for the studs billy boat has a special tool for removing the nuts. Without it some of them are in really hard places to reach. I think some of those nuts took me over 2 hours to tighten without the tool. I don't think I could remove them now without the tool. Good luck.

Any idea where to buy the billy boat exhaust bolt removal tool ?

Yea, you can barely even see all 6 of the exhaust stud bolts.
so that is what made me wonder if this is going to become a problem down the road.

I guess in an extreme worse case scenario,
a mechanic can just Sawzall the whole exhaust off,
thereby exposing all the exhaust studs (for possible drilling out)
Then just purchasing a new header/air box combo.

[gtc]

The B&B headers are stainless, not cast iron. Yes, stainless can rust.
The slanted pipes coming out of the heater boxes deliver heat to your heater valves, which direct the hot air either to your cabin or out underneath the car.
For removal tools, a flex-head gear wrench works well. I'm not aware of any special B&B tool. There is an SSI tool that might help, but I never cared much for it.
Why bother wire brushing the rust off the exhaust studs? They're just going to get rusty again.

You are really making way too big a deal out of this. Everyone's exhaust studs get rusty.

[Ayles]

Here is the tool that comes with the B&B exhaust:

[sugarwood]

That's one heck of a tool.
Is that used only for one particular cylinder?

Gtc, yea, I was mostly curious.
My engine is so clean and dry, it just seems to weird to have those rusty bolts stick out like a sore thumb.

Studs are probably is a moot point for a long time.
And if the engine is out, the studs will probably be the least of my worries. (and can be drilled out at that time, if needed)

I might replace my muffler bolts for the experience.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Here is a rusty bolt that attaches the headers to the muffler.
I assume this was new, so how can it get so rusty?
Were these just some cheap ass bolts that were used?
Would you replace these bolts?
What type of bolts would you replace them with?

On a whim, I tried to remove these muffler bolts today.
Wire brushed the threads, then PB Blaster.

I didn't jack up the car, so I had poor leverage, so they didn't budge with the 3/8" ratchet.
When I have more time, I will jack the car and see if I have more room to work.

I can see this being harder than it looks.
It's actually a pretty tight fit up in there for the other not pictured bolts.
I'll need to use a 2nd wrench to hold the bolt head still.
If I can't get them to move, getting a Dremel onto all 6 bolts may be tricky.

[sugarwood]

This muffler bolts thread popped into my head today. (Not the exhaust studs)
Back then, I see that I futilely tried to use a 3/8" ratchet to remove the muffler bolts.
Today, I'd use a 1/2" breaker bar.

In the 2 years since I made this post, I have purchased impact swivel sockets and both a 3/8" and 1/2" 18V electric impact gun.
So, I'd like to revisit replacing the rusted header -> muffler bolts, if there is access.

How can I figure out what size/material bolt I should replace them with?
Also, is there a standard size for the gasket?

[RarlyL8]

If you plan on keeping this car for another 10 years remove those cheap a$$ studs and nuts NOW.
It will only get worse. If you don't feel comfortable doing it take it to a P-mechanic. You don't want those carbon steel studs rusting up in the heads. Replace with stainless studs and copper nuts and you'll never see this again. For the muffler you can use stainless nuts, bolts and washers, that is what we use.

[Quicksilver]

I've got B&Bs on my car for over a decade...
For the exhaust manifold nuts I would get them off (listen to John Walker) and replace them with copper plated locking exhaust nuts with copper antiseize. (The aluminum antiseize is junk.) If the studs are REALLY toast you can clean the threads with a thread cleaning tap which is different then a regular tap. (It won't remove metal.) Note that the copper plated nuts are a smaller hex size (12mm) so they are easier to get a socket on. I purchased an offset 12mm boxend wrench and cut it in half for clearance which works great for the nuts that I can't get with a socket. Just use the factory exhaust gaskets.

For the header to muffler flange you can use the factory 3.2 muffler gasket or any 2-1/2" header collector gasket but I've found I got the most re-usability out of using a copper gasket (Mr Gasket I think). I've found the perforated metal and fiber gaskets work very well too. Use stainless allen head bolts with copper antiseize and the same copper plated exhaust nuts as the manifold flange. Stainless bolts with stainless nuts isn't a good idea as it tends to gall. Also stainless with steel promotes galvanic corrosion.

One additional thing is I'd make a maintenance item of loosening, re-antiseizing, and retightening the nuts every 2-3 years. You will never have a chance of an exhaust stud issue again.

[Flat6pac]

I've done the install a couple times on B and B exhaust. I couldn't possibly imagine doing the install in the car.
On an engine stand, working down still having problems with getting the nuts on the studs.
It's a night mare to get tight.
Wearing threads on the exhaust studs? Try prevailing torque nuts on the studs, and antiseize.
Bruce