porsche0nut's 3.2 Carrera Engine Project

[porsche0nut]

I've been dreaming of having my own project thread for years, since long before I even owned my 911. Will be posting my progress in this thread, am looking forward to sharing the project and learning from the community as I go - there will be many questions along the way as I seek the advice of those more experienced than myself!

Over the course of my ownership, my 911 has been relatively leak-free, (no more than dime-sized drops underneath the engine) and does not consume much oil (maybe 1L every couple thousand km). This winter I did the usual pre-storage oil change and put her away. To my surprise, a quite sizeable puddle developed beneath the engine.



It appeared as if the oil was leaking from the return tubes, you can see in the photos where the fresh oil left a "path" down the side of the case.




Here cylinder 5 looks like there's another oil leak coming from somewhere - this is strange to me. It was the only one. (see future post... cylinder 5 also was the only cylinder where I found oil collected on the top of the intake valve in the runner, leaking valve guide)



I spent some time cleaning the underside of the engine (it was pretty filthy, grime and oil-covered) so that I could confirm that this was the source of the leak. When I checked the next morning, it was obvious that the oil was leaking from the oil return tubes, fresh oil had collected and everywhere else was bone dry. It sure looked a lot nicer! (pic below is right after cleaning, not after given time to seep)



Excellent, the excuse I needed to drop the engine and get myself into a project! There have been a lot of "want to do" things on my list for some time, so I am going to take this opportunity to dive right in! The goal will be to have it all done in time to drive down to Hershey. Bold... I may end up riding shotgun in a friends car instead - we'll see how things progress!

At the time of engine drop, my list consisted of the following:

• ENGINE
• Oil Return Tubes (Aluminum)
• Triangle of Death seals
• Other easily-accessible seals & gaskets (RMS/intake)
• Pressure test oil cooler
• Patrick Motorsports lightweight clutch set (KEP aluminum pressure plate, Sachs clutch disc)
• Patrick Motorsports lightweight flywheel
• New clutch hardware/accessories
• rarlyl8 1 5/8" headers with heat (plan to also backdate heat)
• M&K 2/1 muffler
• New exhaust studs, gaskets, hardware
• Steve Wong chip
• Wevo engine & trans mounts (black pillows)
• Clean everything for re-assembly, new harware where applicable
• New hoses/lines where needed
  
  OTHER
• Stainless steel braided brake lines
• Re-pack CV joints (they look very clean, no play, but boots were cut)
• Rebuild brake callipers
• Inspect/replace fuel lines as needed
• Finish removing A/C system
• *maybe* Re-index torsion bars (this could be dangerous... not ready for an elephant racing suspension bill yet and afraid of what happens if "I'm in there anyway")

Feel free to chime in with any suggestions - things I should add to the list, experience with different parts/suppliers, tips and tricks...

[porsche0nut]

The engine drop went well, without complication. Unfortunately I had decided to do it on one of the coldest days, but we survived! My plan was to figure out a way to transport the engine downstairs from the garage into the workshop so that I could work on it in comfort and warmth, and have everything out of the way and in a cleaner environment than the garage could offer.

Some pics from the drop process...







Only a couple minor snags... the fuel supply hose was caught on the top of the fuel filter as we were lowering the engine and bent the bracket the filter mounts to slightly before we noticed it, (no biggie, I can remedy that easily) and the electrical pins that connect into the front of the transmission broke from the wire when I pulled them out (also an easy fix).

Obligatory engine bay pic:



To get the engine downstairs I built a cart, and the original plan was to build a ramp and lower the cart down the ramp with my jetta. My 2 friends and I ended up lifting it down the stairs on the cart step-by-step instead. I think our egos were larger than our muscles but we did it.

[porsche0nut]

I spent some time this weekend starting to teardown the engine. My plan is to get it down to the long block before I put it on the engine stand. It makes me uneasy putting it on the stand earlier than I need to (silly, right) and with the engine sitting on the cart it is very easy and enjoyable to work away at anyway. I'm taking my time and organizing everything that comes off, labelling my hardware, and taking plenty of pics. So far everything has removed easily without struggle, but I'm sure that will change when it comes time to remove the heat exchangers!







I took pictures of the intake runners for every cylinder. Check out #5, I think my valve guide is leaking on this one, in addition to the oil pooled up you can see the path it has left over time below the guide.



Questions:

Does this mean I need to replace my valve guides? If so, should I do all of them or just this one? What about the exhaust ones?

Also, my intake manifold was pretty dark inside (as in, the walls of the runners had dark coloration/stain). Is this normal to see?

[hcoles]

I didn't see listed the engine history - e.g. what has been done at various odometer readings.
If you have e.g. 150k without a valve/guide job then it could be time to do that. Others here can advise on how to check the play in the guides without removing the valves. There are a number of possible slippery slopes to explore.

[Jesse16]

I think your engine looks remarkably clean and fresh on the outside. I'd guess you'll be lucky and have no problem with any phase of the dissassembly including the exhaust. I know my 170k motor came apart with no fuss. Very nice now 5 years later and never a drip anywhere.

[CBRacerX]

Enjoy the project! You are lucky to have a basement workshop this winter.

[silverc4s]

Jonathan,
That looks like a great winter project! We'll be following you as you go. I'd recommend giving serious consideration to doing a valve job at this time, given the age & miles you have.
If you can access the exhaust side now, it's a good time to start with PB Blaster or the like prior to actually trying to bust those rusty critters loose...

[NY65912]

Don't forget to do the fuel lines if you have not already done so.

[whiz05403]

Subscribed. Just did this last winter ( Vermont First Engine Drop-87 Targa )

Definately send the heads off for a valve job. How is the compression?

[porsche0nut]

Originally Posted by hcoles

I didn't see listed the engine history - e.g. what has been done at various odometer readings.
If you have e.g. 150k without a valve/guide job then it could be time to do that. Others here can advise on how to check the play in the guides without removing the valves. There are a number of possible slippery slopes to explore.

I have the history back to the late 90's... no engine-out work listed. Mainly just maintenance actually. Currently has ~145k (miles) on it. It's definitely been at least 80k miles without engine out, and potentially has never had a top end done.

Originally Posted by Jesse16

I think your engine looks remarkably clean and fresh on the outside. I'd guess you'll be lucky and have no problem with any phase of the dissassembly including the exhaust. I know my 170k motor came apart with no fuss. Very nice now 5 years later and never a drip anywhere.

Thank-you, I hope to have the same fortune that you did with yours!

Originally Posted by CBRacerX

Enjoy the project! You are lucky to have a basement workshop this winter.

I am fortunate to have the workshop to work in. When it's -30C outside and I can wrench in my t-shirt.....

Originally Posted by silverc4s

Jonathan,
That looks like a great winter project! We'll be following you as you go. I'd recommend giving serious consideration to doing a valve job at this time, given the age & miles you have.
If you can access the exhaust side now, it's a good time to start with PB Blaster or the like prior to actually trying to bust those rusty critters loose...

I will definitely heed your advice and give the exhaust studs some frequent penetrating oil doses! I'm trying to decide right now if I'm going to get into the top end or not. The engine was very strong, and I'm trying to keep costs under control (although I may have splurged on a rarlyl8 exhaust order today....). I will have to assess as I get further and make that decision. My problem is that I don't like to compromise, so if I get into the top end I'm going to have trouble not putting the best of everything into it. I'll love it, my wallet won't.

Originally Posted by NY65912

Don't forget to do the fuel lines if you have not already done so.

Definitely on my to-do list!

Originally Posted by whiz05403

Subscribed. Just did this last winter ( Vermont First Engine Drop-87 Targa )

Definately send the heads off for a valve job. How is the compression?

Thanks for the link - going to read through your thread! I'm not sure the compression, haven't tested..... can I do it with the engine out by turning it over by hand, or does it need to crank?

[Tippy]

"cgarr" will rebuild your heads for an unbelievable price.

I mean, I was shocked what he charged me. Very happy customer!

[Jcslocum]

Originally Posted by porsche0nut

I will definitely heed your advice and give the exhaust studs some frequent penetrating oil doses!

HEAT is your best friend when it comes to the exhaust studs. I used MAPP gas on mine and didn't break a single 1.Get a wrench that will fit in the hex nuts before you start heating. Even if you have to go to Harbor Fright and buy one to bend.

[Smoove1010]

That was a quick drop! I did mine two years ago for a top-end and other assorted stuff, and it was a very satisfying project. (87 Drop Top - Drop-n-Top End) You already look like you're having a blast!
Definitely go for new fuel lines. If I had it to do over I'd have ordered mine from Len (BoxsterGT). It sounds like you already did what I did, i.e., read many, many engine-drop and project threads. This forum is a fantastic resource. I also studied the Bentley book and Wayne's engine book and found that doing all that homework really paid off.
A few tips from a one-timer:
- use the ziploc bag & label method to keep track of parts - it's a lifesaver;
- take lots of pictures at various stages of dis-assembly. Take more than you think you need;
- Be prepared to spend a lot of time cleaning things. Any time you open up an engine cleanliness is really, really important;

Now that the engine bay is empty, there will never be an easier time to do that rear suspension over. What kind of shape are your rear wheel bearings in?
Beware the slippery slope.

Good luck!
GK

[TheSt|G]

Looks like you are off to a solid start. Off the top of your head, do you know what the clearances were to get that engine past the doorway? Ideally I'd like to bring mine to the basement as well.

[911 Rod]

Looking good Jonathan!

How are you going to get it back up the stairs?

[porsche0nut]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

Looks like you are off to a solid start. Off the top of your head, do you know what the clearances were to get that engine past the doorway? Ideally I'd like to bring mine to the basement as well.

The doorway was 30", we had to take the door off its hinges. I built the cart 28" wide, and with the heat exchangers begin staggered it was a squeeze... once the first side was through we rotated the cart/engine about 15 degrees to get the other one through.

Rod - to get it back up the stairs I'm probably going to build a ramp and tow it up on the cart with either a winch, or just hook a chain to my jetta with some friends to guide it. Or perhaps it will warm up and I can bring the long block and stand into the garage for re-assembly.

I really love working in the basement. All my tools are right there, I can sit on my stool and tinker away with a beer while wearing my t-shirt. It's a luxury!

[porsche0nut]

Originally Posted by Smoove1010

That was a quick drop! I did mine two years ago for a top-end and other assorted stuff, and it was a very satisfying project. (87 Drop Top - Drop-n-Top End) You already look like you're having a blast!
Definitely go for new fuel lines. If I had it to do over I'd have ordered mine from Len (BoxsterGT). It sounds like you already did what I did, i.e., read many, many engine-drop and project threads. This forum is a fantastic resource. I also studied the Bentley book and Wayne's engine book and found that doing all that homework really paid off.
A few tips from a one-timer:
- use the ziploc bag & label method to keep track of parts - it's a lifesaver;
- take lots of pictures at various stages of dis-assembly. Take more than you think you need;
- Be prepared to spend a lot of time cleaning things. Any time you open up an engine cleanliness is really, really important;

Now that the engine bay is empty, there will never be an easier time to do that rear suspension over. What kind of shape are your rear wheel bearings in?
Beware the slippery slope.

Good luck!
GK

Thanks GK! Good advice on the fuel lines - definitely going to do them.

The rear suspension is in really good shape. Bushings still look nice, bearings seem ok from the very basis "grab and check for play" inspection. I'm very afraid to get into the rear suspension right now knowing that if I do, I won't be able to hold back from a full ER suspension refresh. I'm (read: my wallet) not ready for that yet! One project at a time...

[porsche0nut]

Originally Posted by Jcslocum

HEAT is your best friend when it comes to the exhaust studs. I used MAPP gas on mine and didn't break a single 1.Get a wrench that will fit in the hex nuts before you start heating. Even if you have to go to Harbor Fright and buy one to bend.

Is it safe to use MAPP gas indoors (I'm guessing no)? What other method of heat can I use inside the basement?

I was lucky enough to be able to borrow the porsche heat exchanger wrenches, so I should be good on the tool front.

[whiz05403]

One thing I wish I would have done is have the rockers refinished and rebushed. They are still a little noisy for my tastes.

Lens new fuel lines fit perfectly.

[Jcslocum]

Yes, MAPP can be used indoors it just burns a but hotter than Propane.