F/G deck lid

rfix'n · 11-01-2002, 07:07 AM

Adding weight in the back due to the 3.6 conversion. Need a new decklid anyway due to dents. Anyone make these in fiberglass and what would the weight savings be?

Thanks in advance

island911 · 11-01-2002, 07:27 AM

There was an aluminum deck lid at the last JohnWalker swapmeet. . $150. Very light, but had all the little holes for the P O R S C H E letters of an early 911; and was a bit dingy. (I don't think it sold)

If you want light, I suggest you look for a carbon-fiber version.

masraum · 11-01-2002, 08:09 AM

I've heard the best feedback on f/g parts from www.mashaw.com, best fit and finish. Their website is very lacking, the ad they put into Excellence is more extensive. I would call to ask what they have and a price. GT-racing also has parts made of f/g and c/f, but I have heard they may require a fair bit of prep work for fit and paint. Also you can do away with the shocks and make a prop rod which will remove more weight. If you don't already have a f/g rear bumper you may want to think about that (budget would be my problem).

rfix'n · 11-01-2002, 08:16 AM

Yeah, cost is my problem as well. I have a significant dent in my decklid and a body shop would charge and amount equal to replacement, therefore I can somewhat justify the decklid but not the bumpers.

Thanks for the above link but I can't get it to work. I imagine c/f would be really spendy!

masraum · 11-01-2002, 10:03 AM

mashaw
or
try this one

I've tested both. One should work for you.

ma shaw
13951 Gershon Place
Santa Ana, Ca 92705
Phone: (714) 730-6917
FAX: (714) 838-6847
mashaw99@earthlink.net

pbs911 · pbs911's Garage

Mike at MA Shaw has some excellent quality F/G and carbon fiber deck lids. And not the laid carbon fiber but the pressure something carbon fiber - there is a difference. The details on the stuctural compenents is very well thought out and provides alot of strength. If the quality of the deck lids is anything like the F/G hood I picked up from him, the rear deack lid will be bolt on. I've seen several of MA Shaws deck lids at his office and they are very nice. It may be a little more money, but after fitting other F/G parts from other venders the little extra $ is worth it. Give him a call, if he doesn't have it he will recommend a competitor IF the quality is up to his standards.

I am told that carbon fiber retains heat more than F/G. For a deck lid you would probably want F/G because ofthis.

Jack Olsen · 11-01-2002, 10:34 AM

Have you thought about a ducktail?

ErVikingo · 11-01-2002, 10:35 AM

Rob,

I have had a good experience with Hank from GT Racing. (www.gt-racing.com). They have parts for all years different from MA Shaw which mostly stocks later year vehicles with the exception of RS and RSR bumpers.

The parts do require prep work though and that can amount to some $$$. If interested in a nose/bumper with a cooler opening contact me.

Juan

rfix'n · 11-01-2002, 11:04 AM

Thanks for all of the replies,

I have thought about a tail. I have the brushed aluminum targa bar and chrome trim around the windows, so I don't think that anything with a black rubber lip would look appropriate.

Anyone have a pic of a similar Targa with a duck tail?

Lothar · Lothar's Garage

I have a fiberglass duck tail and decklid that I would sell. It is in new condition, unpainted and is in the original box. It has never been used. They sell for $349.95 new. I would take $250, buyer pays shipping. I will be posting this in the classified section soon. If you are interested it's all your's.

rfix'n · 11-01-2002, 12:54 PM

Somebody out there must have a picture of a Targa with a ducktail. Prefer brushed aluminum targa bar, but at this point just want to see what a Targa looks like with a Ducktail.

Should a Chin Spoiler be used with a Ducktail?

How much work can be expected to get a GT-Racing body part to work? I'm really bad at body work!

island911 · 11-01-2002, 01:00 PM

Here is a search on Targa Ducktail. I think you'll find something.

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

Here are some old poor quality pics of my old '72

Wrecked944 · 11-01-2002, 01:14 PM

"The parts do require prep work though and that can amount to some $$$"

I've seen this comment made a lot in reference to f/g and c/f body panels. Is this because of poor workmanship in the aftermarket body part or because the cars are old (i.e. bent) and/or were formed by hand at the factory?

11-01-2002, 01:27 PM

Early_S_Man · 11-01-2002, 01:45 PM

Janus,

The prep and fitting of f/g parts isn't related to 911 bodies or aging at all! It is due to the very wide dimensional tolerances in the manufacturing of f/g parts in general. Stamped and welded steel parts can be fairly precise, but f/g thickness can vary, and the fact that every part coming out of the mold has to be trimmed ... means that fit can never be as good as metal stampings!

island911 · 11-01-2002, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Early_S_Man
. . . but f/g thickness can vary, and the fact that every part coming out of the mold has to be trimmed ... means that fit can never be as good as metal stampings!

I know what you mean, Warren; but the poor kwality composites has entirely to do with poor tooling and workmanship; not the nature of composites.
Indeed most of these guys will just take a splash (make mold directly off a part) of an existing bodypanel (in who knows what condition) and not take in to account shrink factors. . .so they rework the mold . . and that doesn't usually have the best results either.
. .And then, there is poor layup, were no consideration is made to fiber orientation or number of layers. I suposse that's what you're getting at, Warren.

However, composites don't have to be so hackish; consider the tolerance and finish of a $70 carbon-fiber tennis racket; for instance. That's what you get when you spend the money on tooling. . .it's not metal vs composites; it's all about tooling $'s.

5axis · 11-01-2002, 04:36 PM

We built compression molds for the inner door pannels on the Hummer. The tools don't look like much but they accurate and they are 6 figure jobs each. ( R&L.) Probably not enough $ in RS spoilers to cover that kind of development.

Wrecked944 · 04:56 AM

"Stamped and welded steel parts can be fairly precise, "

Cool info, thanks. And like most Pelican threads, this one inspired me to do some extra-curricular research. And while I found lots of websites and books on diy welding and metal fab with english wheels and such, I found no sources on diy metal stamping. Is metal stamping within the realm of mere mortals or is it strictly left to the big shops?

Thanks,

Chuck Moreland · 11-02-2002, 06:48 PM

The stock steel decklid is pretty light, about 13 lbs. Not much oppty for weight reduction.

For comparison, my fiberglass ducktail lid weighs about the same. So going to FG, I was able to add the tail without a weight penalty.

Unfortunelty the oppty for removing weight off the rear is pretty limited. The only real significant savings is to replace the rear bumper and valance with fiberglass, and eliminate the bumper shocks.

Next in line is to relocate the oil tank.

Early cars can shave pounds by upgrading to aluminium trailing arms, but you already have them.

You can get a few pounds with hollow tbars and drive shafts.