Door and window experts - need your thoughts.

[jlynch1960]

Hi- Targa seal replacement led to window adjustments. While the doors were apart, I replaced felts, channels, squeegees etc. Two unrelated issues.

First, driver's side window is fine until it's about 3/4's down, then it starts to drift back and jumps out of the channel with an awkward clunking sound. It's always done this a bit, but it's more noticeable now. If I keep pressure on the window forward, no drift, no clunk. I'd guess either the rear channel is too far back or the white plastic piece at the bottom of the window that rides in the channel is worn. Although that begs the question why it would be fine most of the way down and up, but not the last bit. Nothing looked bent or dented when I pulled it all out. Am I missing something?

Checked the parts diagram and there's no spacer on the inside of the door where the lower attachment point is. Thought about trying to bush it out with a washer or two to move it forward, but thought I'd check here first.

Second, I replaced the driver's side power door lock motor which had failed. Found out the door button was getting hung up going through the door top garnish - it's leather and a bit warped. Tried some grease, gentle bending of the door button rod, etc. but it still gets hung up most of the time. Anyone ever ream the button receiver out with a drill bit to open it up a 1/16 or so? Rattle?

Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim

[jlynch1960]

On a side note. I posted a couple weeks ago about the outer door felt that sits below the squeegee. The part for Targas/cabs is $120. The same part for coupes is $23. I reasoned the doors were identical for all body styles, so the only difference was likely the length of the respective pieces.

I ordered the felt for the coupe. It's about 1" longer than the Targa part. There are two receiving holes at the back end of the window slot - one for the coupe, one for the other body styles. See the crappy cell phone pic below. I used a Dremel to trim the part to size, relocated the attachment point (it just pries off and clamps back on - see pic below) and hit the bare metal with some Rustoleum.

One person responding to the earlier thread thought it was galvanized steel and ought not to be cut. I think it's actually aluminum - hard to tell but it cut pretty easily. Anyway, to save $97, it was worth it to me. Time will tell.

Kind of makes you angry with Porsche (not Wayne) for letting stock levels drop so low and jacking up the price on such a simple, fiddly little part.

[universeman]

I bought that part a few months ago for my targa, I don't remember it being anywhere close to $120. I installed whatever it is that I bought, and it fit perfectly. 901-531-935-20-M260

The genuine Porsche original part is indeed $137.50, but that part was $29.50 - just FYI. Huge markup on the P brand as usual....cheaper OEM part will do just fine.

Pelican Parts - European Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche • BMW • Mercedes • Volkswagen • Audi • Saab • Volvo • MINI

[DRACO A5OG]

The rear guide channel may be too deeply set. What I did is to add longer bolts that I round the tip off so it will force the window forward.

My plan is to put a piece of aluminum to build up the guide to a bit over 1/4".

PM me you email address and I will send you the sealing manuals.

Jim

[jlynch1960]

Jason - the Targa part is 911-531-295-40 (which is $120 at Pelican). I think there's some confusion on the Pelican listing as it shows the part you listed as being for all body styles - I actually had to speak with a sales rep about it. The part you mentioned will certainly fit in the door slot but I don't think you'll be able to get your window out with it installed due to the difference in the lengths. Have a look at the different parts numbered 7 here:

Installation Parts Doors

Curious if you were able to install it with the window in?

[universeman]

Hmm. I didn't try - I was removing my windows anyway so I pulled it before I started trying to get the window out. The passenger seal wouldn't come out without removing the window, I do remember that, and I think it's the original, but I don't remember whether or not the other way around was a problem...in any case you could always just pop the seal out if you ever have to remove your window again. Still saves you $90 or so. Or you could just cut it, like you did.

[universeman]

Also - noticed that part is listed for Carreras (84-89) and I have an SC (82) so maybe that's why the part worked on my car. Not sure that it didn't change between 82-84? Seems odd that it would have given body/doors didn't change much.