Help. Fuel hose replacement.

[Dizzy911]

First some background. After browsing the forums for a few years I finally jumped into my project to get my 1977 2.7 running again. Original owner, garaged since 1981. I have removed and cleaned the tank and fuel distributor. Cleaned all fuel lines with seafoam and air pressure and even pulled knottted strings thru them to get the most varnish gunk out of them I could.

Connected the fuel line ends under the hood to each other and used air compressor to test for leaks, first test appeared OK (used new autozone hoses between air hose and plastic tunnel lines up front). Next made a temporary setup with portable gas tank and new fuel pump and ran gas (ethanol-free!) thru the lines for awhile. Looked good. Then assembled all under hood fuel lines to FD and injectors to six bottles. Ran pump and got decent pressure readings I thought, 65psi system, 25psi control, about 85 deg.F. ( I had disassembled the FD a few times due to some injectors free-flowing and ended up replacing all Orings inside.) The old injectors all sprayed OK, maybe not the best pattern, but will probably replace them all later. But then noticed the hi pressure hose was leaking at input to filter, darn. Kinda expected that since the hoses were as old as ther front segments, and they rotted pretty good.

So, I finally removed the rear, old leaking rubber fuel hose sections that connect to the tunnel fuel lines. All these four segments, hi and lo pressure, appear to be made from the same size hose, 7.5mm x 13.5 mm with a cloth covering. The PET katalog I have doesn't list these, only as portions of the entire assembly including the plastic tunnel lines.

I can not find the same type hose at PP. They have a 7.5 x 13.5 porsche pn (999-181-152-50-OEM) hose but it doesnt appear to have the abrasion resistant cover and it does not list the WP. They have a few cohlines: a 7.5 x 12.5, 7 bar, with cloth cover; a 7.5 x 13.5, 10 bar, no abrasion resistant cover, and a 7.3 x 13.5 "Low Permeation" no cloth cover. Has anyone had any success with any of these hose in this application?

Also due to the tight fit underneth, after removing the old hose, I was planning to use the Oetiker clamps over the new hose on the old fittings. Anybody have good long lasting, leak-free results using these clamps here?

For the Oetikers, if the hose-over barb measurement is in the range of two different clamp sizes, which is preferred, tighter or looser?

Thanks to all Pelicaners for providing confidence to us newbies.

Jim

[Jesse16]

Do some quick searching and defer to the one forum member who is all things fuel hose. I'm not remembering his name. I think you have a solid source who can help and you can trust with a quick few searchs. Name maybe Len ??

[Dizzy911]

Oops. Error in my original post. My car was garaged since 1991, NOT 1981.
Jim

[Jesse16]

And its BoxsterGT or Len who does all fuel hoses, or at least used to.

[Dizzy911]

Recent post I read that Len had retired. So I thought I'd go the DIY route with the Oetikers. Never used them b4 so thought somebody may have advice on them to share..
BTW, i put info in 'my garage" here, but it doesn't show up under a line in my posts. How 'd you get it to work?

[Jesse16]

I thought I read that he sold his garage/car repair business somewhere but was still doing hoses. I may not have seen more recent full retirement info.. I just edited my garage today, go up to user "cp up" top of this page and drop down to "edit signature".
May have to save that change to be sure.

[zedsn]

Find a local hydraulic line shop in your area and take your old hoses to them and I bet they can fab new ones for you. I have done this in the Cleveland Ohio area.

[Dizzy911]

Originally Posted by Jesse16

I thought I read that he sold his garage/car repair business somewhere but was still doing hoses. I may not have seen more recent full retirement info.. I just edited my garage today, go up to user "cp up" top of this page and drop down to "edit signature".
May have to save that change to be sure.

Thanks! I'm new to this forum stuff. Didn't even see that Control Panel/Signature options.

[Dizzy911]

Originally Posted by zedsn

Find a local hydraulic line shop in your area and take your old hoses to them and I bet they can fab new ones for you. I have done this in the Cleveland Ohio area.

Thanks, good idea. I read somewhere here that most hydraulic shops don't do our small diameter hoses, but it's worth a try.

[cmonref]

Watch out for fuel hose from Autozone. I went to my local one and found only SAE R7 hose. it is marked "fuel Injection" but it is NOT suitable for the line from the fuel pump to the front of the supply line that goes into the tunnel. You MUST have R9 or better hose. I went to NAPA and found SAE R14T2 hose, labeled "Barricade" which is suitable for pressurized FI lines. SAE R14T1 is NOT suitable for pressurized FI lines.

Oetiker clamps are suitable for connecting fuel hoses. Each Oetiker clamp has a clamping range and you want to hit the mid-point of that range -- or slightly higher than the mid-point. I just used Oetiker clamps to install the rubber lines from the tank (return line) and fuel pump (supply line) today, using 2-ear clamps and 5/16" SAE R14T2 hose. Room is limited, so crimp one side, turn the hose 180 degrees to expose the other ear, and clamp it. Don't twist the poly lines that go into the tunnel -- hold them on the metal part to twist the fuel line between crimps. Those lines are the first lines in your photos above.

I have used Oetiker clamps on other FI hoses and they have never leaked.

[Tidybuoy]

You might consider contacting len.cummings@verizon.net aka BoxterGT.

He made replacement lines for me and the price was pretty reasonable and the quality was great. He even made some custom lines for me when I moved my fuel pump from the rear to the front on my '74.

He uses the correct lines that are rated for the fuel pressure.

He made me CIS lines that go from the fuel distributor to the injectors. new lines that go thru the tunnel from front to rear, and the connecting lines that go to the fuel tank and connection lines that go to the rear engine compartment. When I moved my fuel pump to the front, I had to replace the tunnel lines since the original on a '74 are not high-pressure lines as they are originally "before the fuel pump"

Below are some fuel lines he made for me:

[Dizzy911]

Originally Posted by cmonref

Watch out for fuel hose from Autozone. I went to my local one and found only SAE R7 hose. it is marked "fuel Injection" but it is NOT suitable for the line from the fuel pump to the front of the supply line that goes into the tunnel. You MUST have R9 or better hose. I went to NAPA and found SAE R14T2 hose, labeled "Barricade" which is suitable for pressurized FI lines. SAE R14T1 is NOT suitable for pressurized FI lines.

Oetiker clamps are suitable for connecting fuel hoses. Each Oetiker clamp has a clamping range and you want to hit the mid-point of that range -- or slightly higher than the mid-point. I just used Oetiker clamps to install the rubber lines from the tank (return line) and fuel pump (supply line) today, using 2-ear clamps and 5/16" SAE R14T2 hose. Room is limited, so crimp one side, turn the hose 180 degrees to expose the other ear, and clamp it. Don't twist the poly lines that go into the tunnel -- hold them on the metal part to twist the fuel line between crimps. Those lines are the first lines in your photos above.

I have used Oetiker clamps on other FI hoses and they have never leaked.

Thanks! I was using those autozone hoses only for the tests. i think i identified the PP hose (cohline) i will use for the permanent fix.

Looked for oetiker clamps online, so many different types, single band, double band,etc.. Still looking for professional supplier to make the assemblies. As you suggested, the connection in the front I will have to make since the fitting is fixed to the plastic tunnel hoses.
Did you select 2-ear clamps for extra insurance? 1-ear, high pressure clamps should work also?

I also think there is room there for good fuel injection clamps, like ABA. Double clamps and loctite on the screws for good measure.?

[Dizzy911]

Originally Posted by Tidybuoy

You might consider contacting len.cummings@verizon.net aka BoxterGT.

He made replacement lines for me and the price was pretty reasonable and the quality was great. He even made some custom lines for me when I moved my fuel pump from the rear to the front on my '74.

He uses the correct lines that are rated for the fuel pressure.

He made me CIS lines that go from the fuel distributor to the injectors. new lines that go thru the tunnel from front to rear, and the connecting lines that go to the fuel tank and connection lines that go to the rear engine compartment. When I moved my fuel pump to the front, I had to replace the tunnel lines since the original on a '74 are not high-pressure lines as they are originally "before the fuel pump"

Below are some fuel lines he made for me:

Thanks. Those hose assemblies look great. I could identify the cohline numbers Len used, same as PP sells.

I did send Len an email but haven't heard back yet. Hoping he can make them.

[cmonref]

I used 2-ear on the short rubber hoses up front. Crimp one ear, twist the hose 180 deg (hold the fitting that is crimped to the plastic line to prevent twisting the plastic), crimp the other ear. Orient the ears so that the crimp does not bear on the other fuel line. Researched 1-ear Oetikers but could not find comparison info to the 2-ear, so stuck with 2-ear. The lack of info suggests they are identical in performance specs. Have used FI clamps but never considered Loctite on the threads, but never had them come loose either. Not a bad idea, tho', and I will use Loctite in the future. Have never used double clamp arrangements, and (for the front rubber hoses) found the barbed section a little short for double clamps.

Check your banjo fitting for corrosion on the sealing surfaces. That surface holds back the highest fuel pressure in the system, so I got a new banjo from our host to fit the 5/16 hose, with its full-width uncorroded sealing surfaces.

[Dizzy911]

Thanks. Will check the banjo surface, good idea. For this first pressure test of the fuel lines, after them being dry for about 25 yrs, I used new crush washers, and so far did not leak at all. I often add some blue loctite on fasteners if there is no lock washer. If you want to be able to remove later, be sure to use blue, not red; the red is permanent!

[cmonref]

211,000 miles and I just stumbled on it by accident. In retrospect, it was time for it to be replaced. I put antiseize on all threads so loctite may not be an option. But fuel pump threads do not need antiseize.

[Dizzy911]

Originally Posted by cmonref

211,000 miles and I just stumbled on it by accident. In retrospect, it was time for it to be replaced. I put antiseize on all threads so loctite may not be an option. But fuel pump threads do not need antiseize.

Right. Wouldn't put loctite on fuel fittings either, just on clamp screws and such.