Front sway bars (which one to use)

[JOHN21BLACK]

Whats the difference in handling between traditional bottom sway bar or threw body. I now have a 22mm front and 18mm back on a 911 turbo wide-body all steel. Dont know the weight yet.

[Driven97]

Many more options for stiffer if you use a through-body. Old style ones also have more traditional style drop links so you can remove the preload, where the under body ones just plug into the a-arms.

[winders]

I like the Tarett through the body sway bar best. I use Tarett sway bars front (22mm) and rear (22mm) on my race car and they work quite well. They have robust hardware and are easy to adjust.

[JOHN21BLACK]

What about front shocks? I have boge struts. Do i only have to go with same inserts? Going to be driving car on weekends only and some willow springs action when i can. It will be used on street also.

[Driven97]

We need to know torsion bar size to answer that. Shocks need to be matched to spring rate.

[JOHN21BLACK]

Stock 1984 torsion bars in front

[chrismorse]

Hi John,

Springs, anti roll bars and shocks are all inter-related.
These must then be adjusted to suit your intended use.
These choices are influenced by the engine output and where you are driving.

The more specific about what you have and what you want, the better the advice will fit.
I have autoxed off and on for 40 years, tracked a few cars and had a great deal of fun doing it.

For many, a lot of the fun is tuning on stuff to make it better.

Sorry, long day, I'm kind of tired,
chris

[HarryD]

I would contact Steve Weiner (Steve@rennsport) and discuss your objectives. He will be able to make a package that will be just what you need.

[Driven97]

I'm a big proponent of not upgrading unless you're certain you need to. The cars are quite fun and fantastic as delivered.

Fresh shocks, verification all bushings are in good shape and working as intended, plus modern sticky tires should make for a very enjoyable car with few tradeoffs.

That said, the urge to buy "toys" is very strong, and it's a heck of a lot of fun too. If you go down that rabbit hole, I suggest doing one at a time. That way:
A) you get to prolong the pleasure of buying & installing toys.
B) you get to learn the effect of each one. You're part of the process instead of waking up one day to a totally different car. And if one thing has an effect you don't like, you can undo it.

If you do decide to go mod crazy, I also suggest starting with a plan. Every mod has pros and cons, so being very honest with yourself about use should direct you properly. That way you'll end up with a complete final product you'll love, rather than a car with a bunch of mismatched, haphazard bolt-ons.

[HarryD]

Matt:

While generally I agree that one mod at a time is a prudent way to go. If you are upgrading suspension, often the upgrade requires an alignment at the same time. I would do all the mods that require an alignment at the same time to save the cost of repetitive alignments. This is why I suggest you contact some one like Steve Weiner who can put a package together for you.

[Farrell]

^ exactly, although its nice to order stuff slowly and see the effects, it also makes financial sense to do a lot of it at the same time to save on time and money from repetitive alignments, etc.

[toddu]

How do you guys adjust the front bars? Can't really get in there with the car on the ground to remove preload, and can't do it with the wheels dangling on a lift.

Todd