Would appreciate the answer to two questions re '86 Carrera

[A horse with no name]

Hi,

#1. Can I obtain the Euro rear height by means of the eccentric bolt on the radius arm? The rear wheels/tires are 225/50VR16 Michelin's.


#2. Will a 1987 Turbo's lower valance fit my narrow body 1986 Carrera bumper?

Thanks in advance.

[Flat6pac]

The font lower valance does not have a rounded lip but just cuts off and is trimmed with the turbo air dam
Bruce

[rusnak]

#1. Maybe. It depends on your current ride height. I think the bolts are good for maybe an inch each way. You use the eccentric bolts to refine ride height and corner balance. Lowering is really done with re-indexing the radius arms. I would say be prepared to re-index any time you are chaning the ride height at the rear.

But it's not hard work. You need a bunch of tools, including a large allen wrench for the eccentric bolts, and a thin wrench. There are some good thread on this.

[uwanna]

#1: Before you try adjusting the spring plate eccentrics, a little info for you and also
perhaps bad news on the dificulty of lowering the rear suspension.

The eccentrics come from the factory already set to the lowest possible position, so the only adjustment available is UP! Now if someone in the past has reindexed the torsion bars and readjusted the eccentrics that may no longer be true, but you need to check.

If the eccentrics are still as factory delivered, you'll need to reindex your torsion bars.
When you do it, also reset the eccentrics in the middle of the adjustment to afford
tweaking up or down for corner balancing.

[rusnak]

^ Yup, I agree. A little tech tip - use a center punch and a paint pencil or something to make a dot to show you where the top of the lobe is on each eccentric bolt. I get the paint pencils at Orchard Supply Hardware. They are next to welding supplies and made by Forney. Very useful items. White or Yellow for visibility. Black for general identification.

[A horse with no name]

Thanks everyone for your input.
I best not lowered it until the winter as I'm going re & re all of the bushing in the rear. I recently rebuilt the complete front end which was quite easy. It appears that the rear is basically the opposite but I do have oodles of time.

BTW, how do you re-torque that nut that requires 184 ft lbs.?

[rusnak]

The center axle nut? You don't have to touch it if you're just lowering or replacing the radius bushings. If you are planning to take the banana arms off, then you may also think about replacing the rubber brake lines at the same time. You need a 3/4" breaker bar and a socket. I would recommend a high quality socket such as a Wright. You can use a regular quality breaker bar such as an Ace Hardware or the like. Just lower the car with the wheels on, and stand on the bar. You will have to pop the center hub cap out.

[A horse with no name]

Originally Posted by rusnak

The center axle nut? You don't have to touch it if you're just lowering or replacing the radius bushings. If you are planning to take the banana arms off, then you may also think about replacing the rubber brake lines at the same time. You need a 3/4" breaker bar and a socket. I would recommend a high quality socket such as a Wright. You can use a regular quality breaker bar such as an Ace Hardware or the like. Just lower the car with the wheels on, and stand on the bar. You will have to pop the center hub cap out.

Thanks!