HELP!! '88 911 Cannot Get into Gear

[Memorad]

Please help!!!! The car was driving fine at first, but abruptly in the middle of a shift, the car would not get into another gear (any at all!!!) Once this happened, I just started coasting to a parking spot in neutral. I really appreciate any advice anybody can give me on my car's problem.

Here are the facts:
1) With the car completely off, I can shift through all the gears.

Although at first, I couldn't do this either. For some reason, I just couldn't shift into any gear when the problem cropped up (engine on or off).

2) When the car is on, I cannot shift into any gear (only stay in neutral). No matter what the effort, the gear shift lever does not engage a gear.

What can I do to fix this problem? I read through the other posts, and I seem to be the only person with this problem. Argh.

In dreadful need of help,
James

[motion]

I'd check the linkage and coupler first, but sounds like a synchro. Its happened to me twice in the last 10,000 miles.

[marcesq]

First you have to determine whether the hydraulics are working to disengage the clutch.

Have you checked the fluid level to see if the clutch master or slave cylinders are leaking.

If no leaks, put the car up and check the slave cylinder to see if it is properly disengaging the clutch. The plunger should be extending into the bell housing and pushing the clutch fork toward the rear of the car.

Did you hear any loud bump or bang when the clutch last engaged.

Check the shift coupler between the rear footwells under a plate to see if it is stripped or has become loose.

In order for syncros to be the problem, all of them would have to be shot.

Let us know what you find.h

[Rick Lee]

How does your pedal feel? Marc is right about the hydraulics, but you'd certainly feel it with your foot if that were the case. When my slave went out, my pedal almost stayed on the floor - pretty unmistakeable. I don't know how in the world this could have happened, but I guess your slave's push rod could have come out of the fork dimple. In that case, your pedal would be real stiff and the clutch would not disengage at all. If you need a new slave cylinder, it's only about $50 and a mild headache to R&R yourself. I think the exploding rubber-centered clutch disc problems did not occur after 1987, but not sure.

[Mike the mechanic]

Sounds like a clutch related problem, seeing as you can get into any gear with the engine off. How does your clutch pedal feel? Is it stiffer or softer to depress? My guess would be a clutch fork problem. I have actually seen the clutch fork mountings break off the inside if the bellhousing.

[Memorad]

First off, I want to thank everybody who has responded to my post so far. I won't be able to try out everybody's suggestions until tomorrow.
However, I've been thinking about everybody's suggestions, and I did not hear any noises when the incident happened. It was all very sudden. Now, I am not a skilled manual tranny driver, and this may help your contributions. I have grinded the gears (letting the clutch out a little too quickly/ midway in a shift), stalled the engine, and whenever I start braking for a complete stop, my feet are on both the clutch and brake.

Motion suggested synchros, but Marcesq pointed out that all of them would have to be broken. OUCH, I most certainly hope that is not my problem, but I can't shift into any gear with the engine running so..... I'll keep my fingers crossed.

My clutch pedal feels lighter than normal, but not significantly so (it's not on the floor, Richard).

Where can I find out more about the shift coupler between the rear foot wells and the clutch fork.

Hey, what do you guys think about attempting to start the car with the car in gear, but the clutch disengaged? Could that damage things?

Thanks for everything,
James

[Memorad]

So, this is for anybody who may have the same problem that I do. I called the local Porsche dealer and my usual service tech thinks he has the solution to the problem... a blown out clutch. This is a very expensive repair job, requiring 10 hours of labor and altogether will cost nearly $2000. Good luck to everybody with this problem and I appreciate those who tried to answer my question.

James

[Rick Lee]

Don't you dare pay someone $2k to do this job for you. I did it myself and it was a super rewarding experience. I am a total novice, had done nothing more than brake pads on my old BMW and I did my own G50 clutch update and R&R myself with a lot of research and help from the local Pelicanheads. It's a very doable job and you can do it in one or two weekends max for less than $900 max. In addition, you can do a lot of otherwise costly repairs very cheaply while the engine is out. I don't even have a garage. Believe me - I am living proof that a G50 clutch job can be tackled by a complete beginner.

[marcesq]

James:

Did the tech have the car or was the diagnosis made based on the same information that you gave us??

If he didn't have the car, please follow the checks offered above. In the end he may be right, but there is no sense dropping the engine (or pay someone else to do it) if it is not needed.

If you do need a new clutch, dropping of the engine is not impossible, and with the help of a few friends, it can be done in a weekend.

If you decide to do the work yourself, drop me a PM and I will try to out line the parts needed, and those suggested to head off problems in the future.

[john walker's workshop]

you should be able to get a clutch job including the fork, shaft and guide update for $1400, if that's really what the problem is. just for the hell of it, bleed the clutch hydraulic system. if it works after that, which will probably be fairly temporary, then you can just replace the master and slave cylinders. that's what it sounds like to me. sometimes you can just pull the pedal up by hand and pump it a few times to restore the function for a while.

[Face]

I had the same indications when I blew my rubber centered clutch a few months back. (89, Richard, so yes, even the "newer" models had this problem! $1500 in parts for the update, clutch kit, and new slave and master cylinders - did the work with the help of Jim Smolka.
Cheers,

[Rick Lee]

Originally posted by Face
I had the same indications when I blew my rubber centered clutch a few months back. (89, Richard, so yes, even the "newer" models had this problem! $1500 in parts for the update, clutch kit, and new slave and master cylinders - did the work with the help of Jim Smolka.
Cheers,

Jim Smolka called me about this job back in August I think. I recited for him all the parts and tricks we used for this update. I did it on my cell phone while on a long drive. He seemed to grasp it and again, I'm a novice. This job is totally DIYable. My clutch kit and update parts were under $700. I threw in another $200 or so in misc. oil seals, gaskets and beer and was done in under two weekends. You can get in a very easy valve adjustment and several other repairs and preventative fixes with the engine out. Don't pay someone else for this job. If I can do it, anyone can. Come to think of it, we even placed an emergency phone call to John Walker during this job. There's so much help out there.

See for yourself how much fun we had:

Engine drop . . . day one

[RatBoy4]

I had a similar problem. It was only with second gear though. Everyone (mechanics and other Porsche guys) told me that there was probably something wrong with the clutch. It turned out that once I took it to a wrench that there was just a problem with one of the coupler bushings that was going bad. I got it replaced parts and labor for under a hundred bucks. Lets hope that this is your problem as well.

[rcwaldo]

since you can get it into gear when the engine is off, try this. With the engine off, put it in gear and (clutch in) try to start the car. If the car lunges forward (with the clutch in) then you know its something to do with the clutch.

give it a try.

Good luck, we are all with you

Chris

[Memorad]

Hey Everyone,
So, I have tried something similar to Chris's suggestion, and when I started the car with the clutch in (reverse gear selected)... the car lunges backward. Can we all agree that this is a similar enough scenario and that the culprit is the clutch?

Thanks again everyone,
James

[Rick Lee]

Well, it sure sounds clutch-related to me. But I still wouldn't rule out your master and/or slave cylinders. You need to get under there and take a look whilst someone plays with the pedal.

[john walker's workshop]

you won't see anything if you look while someone works the pedal. it's all enclosed. doesn't sound like you tried bleeding it yet. that's the first step, and could be the cheapest repair if it's the hydraulic system.