Hard Oil Line Fitting on Engine side???

[DRACO A5OG]

I recall someone posted a upgrade fitting for the crossover hard oil line to the engine side.

Can anyone who done this post the part# or link? Could not find it on our host's site or maybe I am not looking correctly?

TIA,

Jim

Yes, mine is leaking, may need tightening but just in case.

[DRACO A5OG]

Anyone Anyone???

[KTL]

I don't know of an upgrade to the fitting itself. There's just various hard line choices to choose from.

That's not to say you cannot change the adapter on the case if you want to. Setrab and Elephant Racing make an AN-16 adapter that you can use to replace the M30 Porsche fitting.

Oil cooler fittings, adaptors, and unions Elephant Racing

But if you want to stick with the original hard line, the M30 fitting is really the only way to go? I'm kind of a plumbing nerd lately so i've looked at a lot of different plumbing components over the past few months while I figure out how to plumb my racecar with various factory and aftermarket bits.

[DRACO A5OG]

Brother KTL, thanks so much for the reply-post.

Good, I thought I was seeing things, yeah my fitment worked it's way loose so it's time for me to remove the exchanges and tighten that sucker up, my only leak :-P

Jim

[KTL]

Hey Jim,

You might find that the hard line is loose or the adapter fitting is loose. You need a thin wrench to hold the adapter hex when loosening the 36mm "ring nut" on the hard line.

Adapter is sealed to the case with a aluminum washer so you probably don't need to replace that. Sometimes the adapter is threadlocked in place too. So maybe wont have to mess with it.

Might also find that the nearby oil return tube is in your way even after you get the exhaust off. So if you need a good used two-piece factory return tube to replace an existing one-piecer, let me know.

[DRACO A5OG]

Kevin,

Thanks brother, I will keep it in mind.

Yeah, I can see the weeping from the thread beteen the two nuts, I tapped gently with a punch and it actually moved so definitely need to tighten it.

Question, if you know, I see a rubber coated bracket in the back to hold the oil line, is there another one holding it in the middle or some where, being that loose seems to attribute to that fitting getting loose, I wonder???

Jim

[zippy_gg]

Hey Brother Jim, let me know if you need any thin wrenches; I have a whole set you can use.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by zippy_gg

Hey Brother Jim, let me know if you need any thin wrenches; I have a whole set you can use.

Awesome, when are you planning to reinstall? I will bring back the bike lift for you.

Thanks again Brother Gil!
Jim

[zippy_gg]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Awesome, when are you planning to reinstall? I will bring back the bike lift for you.

Thanks again Brother Gil!
Jim

Well, it looks like I may have to open the tranny as I found nothing obvious about the difficult shift up to 3rd and down to 3rd. No debris in the oil, and nothing loose under the bottom cover. But that's an entire new discussion we can have over beer...

[larrym]

Elephant Racing sells the 22mm lines AND the various metric adapters

they happen to be in the same city as Royal Hydraulics which has every metric fitting & hose size you could want - so maybe that's where they get em?

[scarceller]

KTL,

I see you mentioned the large nut on the tube is 36mm do you know what size the adapter nut is?

Originally Posted by KTL

Hey Jim,

You might find that the hard line is loose or the adapter fitting is loose. You need a thin wrench to hold the adapter hex when loosening the 36mm "ring nut" on the hard line.

Adapter is sealed to the case with a aluminum washer so you probably don't need to replace that. Sometimes the adapter is threadlocked in place too. So maybe wont have to mess with it.

Might also find that the nearby oil return tube is in your way even after you get the exhaust off. So if you need a good used two-piece factory return tube to replace an existing one-piecer, let me know.

[DRACO A5OG]

I think it is 30MM Dr Sal. I will check later when she cools down. I remember using a 30MM socket to torque it first then installing the oil line fitment and used a 36 Crows foot to torque it to spec.

I was scared poopless trying not to damage the case

[scarceller]

Draco,

And you tightened the 36mm nut with exhaust heat exchangers in place? I'm needing to replace my oil line here and plan to try removing it and installing new one with SSIs in place if possible.

I plan on a wrenches like this for the nut:
15 Piece Metric Service Wrench Set
Not the best quality but for this job should be just fine.

or maybe this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201281108343

Thanks.

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

I think it is 30MM Dr Sal. I will check later when she cools down. I remember using a 30MM socket to torque it first then installing the oil line fitment and used a 36 Crows foot to torque it to spec.

I was scared poopless trying not to damage the case

[DRACO A5OG]

Oh no, I removed the exchanger to gain full access, if you can call it that.

I used the harden steel black oil line wrenches to start and then used a 36MM crows foot to torque to spec.

I really do not think either of the two links are strong enough. I mean I was struggling even with a break bar attached to the steel wrenches.

I found you must go by spec torque on both nuts or it will leak. Snug and 1/4 turn just will not do it. I did it 6 times, only the spec torque stopped my leak.

[Ayles]

Don't forget a new crush ring there if you decide to remove. Mine also leaked until I hit the torque spec.

[DRACO A5OG]

32MM for the adaptor to case or M22 x 1.0, 120Nm