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Madsimilius
 
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G50 Assembly. Adjuments and things to remember to do?

I've had my G50/00 dissasembled to shorten the clutchhouse and mainshaft, and i've bought a kit with all g50 seals and new syncrings for all the gears.
I'm almost done assembling it and i've only got the reverse gear and transmission nose left

Now to the questions: Can i do all the adjustments and calibrations my self without the special tools?

And thinking about the pinion and and differential, i've put back the same shims for the tensioning plate, i never took the four point bearing and main bearing of the pinion shaft and i'm using the same differential.
Do i need to recallibrate this?

And if i want to change the differential later do i need to open the whole transmission to change the tensioning plate shims? if thats the case i guess i'll get a new LSD right away.

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Old 07-29-2015, 01:13 AM
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WOW... G50 rebuilds are relatively rare compared to the 915.

I can't help but I wish you the best.
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Old 07-29-2015, 01:27 AM
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Madsimilius
 
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Thank you !
From what i've heard the g50 is a bit easier then the 915, but i haven't been able to find to much information about the G50, so that probably makes it worse again
I didn't realy need to change all the syncronizer rings, but i thougt i'd just do it while i was already at it.
I'll put up some pictures later
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Old 07-29-2015, 02:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madsimilius View Post
Thank you !
From what i've heard the g50 is a bit easier then the 915, but i haven't been able to find to much information about the G50, so that probably makes it worse again
I didn't realy need to change all the syncronizer rings, but i thougt i'd just do it while i was already at it.
I'll put up some pictures later
I've heard opposite, that the 915 is easier than the G50?

No experience in either, but have done other trans.
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Old 07-29-2015, 03:39 AM
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Post some pics! Best of luck and full props for having the guts to tackle it yourself!
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Old 07-29-2015, 04:00 AM
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The G50 is much more difficult than the 915. And the tools are more complicated.

I don't believe you need to do anything special on reassembly. I just followed the directions and re-assembled mine.

Maybe Peter Zimmerman can chime in if he's still around.
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Old 07-29-2015, 04:17 AM
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At least check the contact pattern on the ring gear with prussian blue. that will tell you if something is different. I would have looked at this before disassembly just to see where its at.
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:26 AM
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The ring and pinion will have a visual wear pattern without bluing it. That's how it has been running. Wouldn't hurt to check it now that it is back together.

You changed no shims or bearings do pinion froth should still be fine.

And LSD only alters the backlash and bearing preload on the ring gear. Only side cover needs to come off. Pinion depth should be unchanged. You can put the box back together and do LSD later.

Did you measure the loaded stack height on the synchros? Been lots if inferior out of spec replacement synchros floating around in recent times. Oem is best.
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:38 AM
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Madsimilius
 
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My dad told me to paint the pinion and ring blue actually
There visual wear on the ring (seems a bit of?) but the not the pinion.
No i didn't measure them, but i bought the syncronizer rings from pelicanparts. 1&2 gear rings are from Getrag and the rest of the rings are Rauch & spiegel.
I should be ok shouldn't i ?
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Last edited by Madsimilius; 07-29-2015 at 10:13 AM..
Old 07-29-2015, 09:38 AM
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Madsimilius
 
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I got the transmission cheap from a crashed 911, and a crack in the bellhousing needed some welding.

The transmission nose had two broken bolts in it that i had to drill out and a piece of the nose was broken of and had to be welded before drilling a new hole.
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Last edited by Madsimilius; 07-29-2015 at 09:55 AM..
Old 07-29-2015, 09:49 AM
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Madsimilius
 
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I had to modify this puller to get the gears of the shafts.

And i had to sacrifce this 41mm cup (or what ever it's called in english ? To be able to get the big nut at the rear end of the mainshaft of. (It was STUCK!!)
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Last edited by Madsimilius; 07-29-2015 at 10:14 AM..
Old 07-29-2015, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madsimilius View Post
My dad told me to paint the pinion and ring blue actually
There visual wear on the ring but the not the pinion. (seems a bit of?)
No i didn't measure them. I bought the syncronizer rings from pelicanparts. 1&2 gear rings are from Getrag and the rest of the rings are Rauch & spiegel. I should be ok shouldn't i ?
Looks to me the contact is not centered,.....wonder what experts say.
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Old 07-29-2015, 10:06 AM
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Madsimilius
 
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Got help from my cousin shortening the transmission.

Ready to put back together.

And where i am now.
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Old 07-29-2015, 10:07 AM
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Madsimilius
 
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Thats what i thought to Ganun.
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Old 07-29-2015, 10:09 AM
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gearhead
 
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What does the pattern look like on the other side of the teeth? That's the coast side in the picture if I am seeing it right.

I wouldn't personally use R&S synchros. Be sure to measure the loaded stack height on them with a feeler gauge if you decide to proceed. But as I said before, OEM is best.
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Old 07-29-2015, 01:26 PM
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Madsimilius
 
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Measure loaded stack height? can you please explain?
I guess i'll have to go with the R&S as i've already bought them.
I'll make sure to do more research before buying later on.
Thank you for helping Matt you are very helpful!
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Old 07-29-2015, 03:41 PM
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Madsimilius
 
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By the way, on the other side of the ring teeth the whole side is shiny and it seems like it's very even.
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Old 07-29-2015, 03:45 PM
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Madsimilius
 
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By measuring stack height do you mean measuring ring wear? I did measure my old rings to see if i should throw them away or not. They are stil good so i'm keeping them as spares.
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:48 AM
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gearhead
 
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Yes. That is what you measure.

Your r/p set up sounds ok.
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Old 07-30-2015, 05:30 AM
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gearhead
 
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Yes. That is what you measure.

Your r/p set up sounds ok.

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Old 07-30-2015, 05:32 AM
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