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Sway bar link bracket weld failed

Special concerns when repairing a busted sway bar bracket?
A once.already repaired/rewelded bracket separated again.

Paul C
'87 Carrera

Old 09-17-2015, 05:10 PM
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The Weltmeister sway bar mount was the standard upgrade to replace broken factory mounts on our race cars.
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Old 09-17-2015, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninesixfour View Post
The Weltmeister sway bar mount was the standard upgrade to replace broken factory mounts on our race cars.
What driving incident typically causes that part or weld to fail?
Paul
Old 09-18-2015, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Crowther View Post
What driving incident typically causes that part or weld to fail?
Paul
fun.

Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 402k miles
Old 09-18-2015, 03:46 AM
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porsher
 
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I assume you are referring to the rear. Take a look at the buckley racing mount. It takes the load to the torsion tube.

The weltmaster is a great part but it attaches to a very weak area, as you have found.
Old 09-18-2015, 05:59 AM
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For inspiration. I know it looks over the top but i wont be fixing it any time soon.


Old 09-18-2015, 06:14 AM
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WEVO has one of the best fixes: http://www.wevo.com/Products/ChassisProducts/WevoChassisProducts-RARBConsoles.htm

And of course Pelican carries it: 1987 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe - Suspension, Shocks & Springs - Page 8
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Old 09-18-2015, 06:42 AM
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The Jerry Woods Enterprises mount is the best one on the market today. Here is a link to a post about it:

need sway bar ideas
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Old 09-18-2015, 07:06 AM
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I am having similar issue. Bottom half of one of my rear sway bar brackets rusted off. For my car (1988 carrera), the OEM style replacement is readily available on Pelican or ebay. Part #911-501-983-00-GRV. Replacement should be pretty straightforward if you have access to a lift and someone who can weld. Need to grind off the existing welds first. Mine is just tacked in 4 places. Then take a grinder and clean up the frame where you'll be welding to, and weld the new one in place. Probably want to dab or spray on some primer at least to protect new part from rusting. Note that if car has A/C you will need to remove several of the clamps that hold the evaporator to condenser A/C hose to the body to move it out of the way, but you don't need to disconnect and won't lose refrigerant.
Old 09-18-2015, 07:43 AM
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Don't bother with the updated OEM mount. They are barely any better than the originals, as the above photo shows.
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Old 09-18-2015, 07:57 AM
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Replacement with a factory bracket is nice to use OEM Porsche parts. But it'll break again in the future. The original brackets, and even the updated "butterfly" reinforced bracket, is rather thin sheetmetal. Like the other guys have indicated, the bracket rocks back & forth ever so slightly and that slowly fatigues the bracket metal. Eventually what happens is either the bracket tears away at the base, or the welded nuts pull through the base.

Be sure to disconnect the battery and remove the Motronic ECU from the car before welding on the new bracket!

I can't tell if Aston's handy work is reinforcing the bracket, or if the bracket is now reinforcing the torsion bar housing!
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTL View Post
I can't tell if Aston's handy work is reinforcing the bracket, or if the bracket is now reinforcing the torsion bar housing!

Who asked you?
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:37 AM
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Seriously, the Jerry Woods Enterprises (JWE) part is the best one available and it is cheaper than the WEVO or Buckley Racing part.
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:01 AM
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You guys crack me up

For reference, here is my WEVO welded in place

Saving a 73 from the crusher...

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Old 09-18-2015, 10:02 AM
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I did the Wevo style too:
And we're off! '74 Rear Suspension Rebuild
-C
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:10 AM
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The WEVO can fail too....the JWE product is cheaper and better. It is welded on in such as to prevent the rocking fatigue failures and the nuts are replaceable.
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winders View Post
The Jerry Woods Enterprises mount is the best one on the market today. Here is a link to a post about it:

need sway bar ideas
I can see how the heavier wevo holds up better than stock, but as Winders points out it doesn't eliminate the forces, it just resists them. I'd do it his way if I were to do it again.
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Last edited by wayner; 09-18-2015 at 10:59 AM..
Old 09-18-2015, 10:55 AM
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+1 on the WEVO. I run them on my '88 and '73 track car with Smart Racing Bars. With the '88, I went thru the improved OEM version that had a cracking failure similar to JRSIII's picture and the original version. Since the WEVO replacement, no problems at all on either car. WEVO makes some great components.
Eric
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Old 09-18-2015, 11:09 AM
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Eric,

JWE used to sell the WEVO part through their Smart Racing Products catalog. I would bet they designed their own part to address what they viewed as shortcomings in the WEVO part. Hence the welding of the part to the outside of the longitudinal, welding it to the torsion tube, and having replaceable nuts for the bolts.

Yes, it does require some extra welding, but the part is cheaper and will not fail if installed correctly!
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Old 09-18-2015, 11:16 AM
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Scott,
I don't doubt the methodology of the JWE mount. Double shear will always beat single shear. The issue is the JWE mount has a flat interface with no relief for a stock or SRP bar. It looks like the Tarret bar has a flat face suitable for the JWE design.
Eric

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Old 09-18-2015, 11:59 AM
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