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Quote:
Originally Posted by ant7 View Post
If you didn't move the adjusters much, [fraction of a turn]then i would also be inclined to think spark plug wires broken, if the tappets are too tight, then the valves will not close, therefore, that/those cylinders will not fire up, or they will miss-fire, i would first check the spark plug wires, make sure the metal connectors in the ends havent come out, then, as others have said, try and i identify which cylinders are not firing, you can check this by either pulling the plug leads off, [use a very well insulated pliers, or grips, and rubber gloves to be safe]one by one, and hearing if the engine rpm changes, or, check the heat of each exhaust pipe coming directly out of each cylinder, Warning! if the tappets have been adjusted way too tight, then there is a possibility of valve to piston contact, but you say you didn't adjust them by much, so i would suspect that to not be the case.
Hope this helps.
Anthony.
What is adjusting to tight, I was able to slide the feeler gauge back and forth on each valve... Can you be to tight and still not be able to slide the feeler gauge back and forth..

Thanks

Old 11-21-2015, 09:39 AM
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People rarely get the valves too tight unless they use the wrong feeler gauge. Typically they are too loose if anything given the locknut pulls the foot away from the valve stem or they don't have the rocker on the cam base circle.

Your problem is not valve adjustment. You either have the plug wires installed incorrectly or screwed up the ignition in some way. Did you change the plugs?
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Old 11-21-2015, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mreid View Post
People rarely get the valves too tight unless they use the wrong feeler gauge. Typically they are too loose if anything given the locknut pulls the foot away from the valve stem or they don't have the rocker on the cam base circle.

Your problem is not valve adjustment. You either have the plug wires installed incorrectly or screwed up the ignition in some way. Did you change the plugs?
Yes I changed the spark plugs and verified that they were gapped...they were properly gapped straight out of the box...each spark plug went in smoothly...
Old 11-21-2015, 12:58 PM
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Swap in the old plugs and see if that fixes it. They can be no good right out if the box.
What brand and type of spark plugs did you use?
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Old 11-21-2015, 01:47 PM
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Old 11-21-2015, 02:10 PM
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The plugs I installed were Bosch , I'm starting to think something is up with the plugs also.. ? First thing in the morning, I'm going to re - install my old plugs.... And try that. All it takes is one faulty plug for it to run bad
Old 11-21-2015, 03:21 PM
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Is there a way to verify if a spark plug is good straight out of the box
Old 11-21-2015, 03:26 PM
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If you can slide the correct size feeler guage between the cam lobe, and rocker foot, then thats not your problem, its electrical i am 90% sure of that, spark plugs, distributor, plug leads etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by avsarinana View Post
What is adjusting to tight, I was able to slide the feeler gauge back and forth on each valve... Can you be to tight and still not be able to slide the feeler gauge back and forth..

Thanks
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Old 11-22-2015, 01:59 AM
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A few items that may help you,
You say you changed plugs,the correct procedure is to check your valves
first before removing plugs,here is why if you removed the plugs first,because it
makes it easy to turn the engine over while checking valve clearance,but what can happen is while doing this carbon pieces can fall from the plugs or cylinder chamber and into the valves, so when checking clearance not getting correct spec. new plugs should be changed after.Also another source while threading your plugs in using the factory socket
you always have to be careful not to crack the side enamel on any plugs, as that will also
give you a bad miss.
go to www.google .com-----put in the words,---how to check valve clearance on
Porsche 911.-----our host Pelican has really info on there,regards.
Old 11-22-2015, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayne robson View Post
A few items that may help you,
You say you changed plugs,the correct procedure is to check your valves
first before removing plugs,here is why if you removed the plugs first,because it
makes it easy to turn the engine over while checking valve clearance,but what can happen is while doing this carbon pieces can fall from the plugs or cylinder chamber and into the valves, so when checking clearance not getting correct spec. new plugs should be changed after.Also another source while threading your plugs in using the factory socket
you always have to be careful not to crack the side enamel on any plugs, as that will also
give you a bad miss.
go to www.google .com-----put in the words,---how to check valve clearance on
Porsche 911.-----our host Pelican has really info on there,regards.
I left the spark plugs in when I was doing the valve adjustment, then changed the spark plug after..removed the plugs with factory socket
Old 11-22-2015, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by timmy2 View Post
Swap in the old plugs and see if that fixes it. They can be no good right out if the box.
What brand and type of spark plugs did you use?
Put in old plugs same result, still running rough... ?
Old 11-22-2015, 09:50 AM
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What kind of resistance readings, should I get when testing spark plug wires. The spark plug wires look original to the car.. car has 117,000 miles
Old 11-22-2015, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avsarinana View Post
Put in old plugs same result, still running rough... ?
So, you put all the old parts back on the car and it still runs bad, just leaves the valves in question then.
Old 11-22-2015, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo owner View Post
So, you put all the old parts back on the car and it still runs bad, just leaves the valves in question then.

Your right at this point its either the spark plug wires or I F$ck up the valve adjustment. I know its not the rotor and cap, I put back all the old spark plugs, and it still runs like crap.
Old 11-22-2015, 10:42 AM
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I have one of these and it is great to test spark at each cylinder.

maybe you can borrow one.
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Old 11-22-2015, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avsarinana View Post
What kind of resistance readings, should I get when testing spark plug wires. The spark plug wires look original to the car.. car has 117,000 miles
Going by memory here, I think 4K ohms overall is normal.
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Old 11-22-2015, 04:32 PM
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I just changed my wires on my '85. All were 2.9-3.0 kohms.
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Old 11-23-2015, 06:16 AM
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Based on your description, I don't think your issue is valves. I think you cracked some plug wires internally when you pulled the wires to install new plugs or knocked a vacuum line off it's fitting. Just doesn't sound like a valve adjustment problem.
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mreid View Post
Based on your description, I don't think your issue is valves. I think you cracked some plug wires internally when you pulled the wires to install new plugs or knocked a vacuum line off it's fitting. Just doesn't sound like a valve adjustment problem.
Agreed, unless you totally got the cylinders mixed up when doing the valves.... but that's not likely as I think you said you've done valve adjustments before.
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jlex View Post
Agreed, unless you totally got the cylinders mixed up when doing the valves.... but that's not likely as I think you said you've done valve adjustments before.
Well im just fully confused, at this point... I'm hesitant to drain the oil and re-check the valves?

Im ready to take my car to a repair shop and get it going, and re-group and give it another try at a later date.


Last edited by avsarinana; 11-23-2015 at 12:37 PM..
Old 11-23-2015, 12:34 PM
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