LED Update and Question

[Pstallo]

I have recently become obsessed with replacing all of the bulbs in my 911 with some sort of LED replacement. I think it's because I feel like 'modernizing' everything about the car but the looks, if that makes sense.

First, I installed LED gauge lights by a forum member named rothaus that made an incredible difference. (a tutorial on how I did it is at LED Gauge Tutorial)

Next, I replaced all the interior lights with EBay LED bulbs and installed under dash lighting (see New Interior Lights)

Then, I bought spoke's LED brake lights, which made an incredible difference and will probably decrease the likelihood that I'll be rear-ended by a text-messaging soccer mom with 5 kids in her van.

Today, I replaced the reverse lights with these bulbs I got on EBay:



And the result is pretty dramatic:



So, here's the question:
I tried installing LEDs for the turn signal bulbs, but when I did, they began flashing at double-speed like they do if you remove the bulb completely. The lights worked and were nice and bright, but they blinked way too fast. I'm sure it has something to do with a voltage drop or something.

Is there a way around this so I can still use LED bulbs?

[Pstallo]

I should add that in the picture, the new reverse light is only installed on the right side for comparison.

[DaveMcKenz]

There is a solid state flasher EP 36, that will work with LED's or incandescent, I got mine from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00064LQLC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
You will need to ground the common wire connecting the indicator bulbs in the tachometer, on mine it is blue/white.
Search the LED Brae lights thread. You will find this and other info, including the effect on the cruise control
Good luck,
Dave

[anglophone1]

Originally Posted by Pstallo

I have recently become obsessed with replacing all of the bulbs in my 911 with some sort of LED replacement. I think it's because I feel like 'modernizing' everything about the car but the looks, if that makes sense.

First, I installed LED gauge lights by a forum member named rothaus that made an incredible difference. (a tutorial on how I did it is at LED Gauge Tutorial)

Next, I replaced all the interior lights with EBay LED bulbs and installed under dash lighting (see New Interior Lights)

Then, I bought spoke's LED brake lights, which made an incredible difference and will probably decrease the likelihood that I'll be rear-ended by a text-messaging soccer mom with 5 kids in her van.

Today, I replaced the reverse lights with these bulbs I got on EBay:



And the result is pretty dramatic:



So, here's the question:
I tried installing LEDs for the turn signal bulbs, but when I did, they began flashing at double-speed like they do if you remove the bulb completely. The lights worked and were nice and bright, but they blinked way too fast. I'm sure it has something to do with a voltage drop or something.

Is there a way around this so I can still use LED bulbs?

I have just put in Spoke's backlights/brake lights- really good!
I have tried to instll some LED replacement reversing lights but not a good fit- can you send me the ebay link for yours?
Thanks
Clive

[Pstallo]

Sure, it turns out those were from Amazon. Here you go:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OGXID7E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

[Pstallo]

Also, I forgot to mention that the seating little pins were offset on the LEDs but were even on the original bulbs, so they wouldn't go in easily. I took a Dremel tool and ground down the uppermost pin a little and then they fit fine.

[RSTarga]

Phillips makes a replacement bulb for the directioanals that doe not require a flasher replacement.

[Pstallo]

RSTarga, you don't happen to know a part number or link for it do you?

[spoke]

Peter,

Hyperflashing is a safety feature built into most car's flasher relay. The flasher is designed to flash at 2x rate (hyperflash) when the loading is less than the wattage of 2 normal bulbs. Normal bulb is about 20W. So 2 bulbs burn about 40W.

If the flasher senses something like 30W or less, it will hyperflash to alert the driver that a bulb is burned out. LED replacements burn much much less, maybe 3W to less than 10W. To replace front or rear or both with LEDs requires a change to an LED-compatible flasher.

As Dave mentioned, the EP36 is LED-compatible and plug-in compatible with the 911 standard flasher. Every FLAPS that I've checked (Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance Auto, etc.) carry EP36 on the shelf for around $15.

[Pstallo]

Thanks spoke! I figured the voltage difference was the issue. I'll definitely try the EP36. I'm assuming that would be needed with your turn signal LEDs anyway, right?

[spoke]

Yes, my turnsignal boards burn about 5W each. When I did the first one, I realized I needed an EP36. Really annoying when turnsignals hyperflash. I've seen this a lot in work trucks when turnsignals are replaced with LED types.

The flasher is behind the dash. I found mine by going through the front trunk. It helps to have the turnsignals or 4-ways on and just follow the clicking sound. Replacement took about 1 minute.

[javadog]

Originally Posted by Pstallo

Thanks spoke! I figured the wattage difference was the issue.

What you meant...



Might be easiest to replace the flasher by reaching through a gauge hole.

[Pstallo]

Ahh, sorry. That makes sense--I guess it's 12 volts all the time, isn't it.

My electrical experience is limited to the Alabama multimeter--if you touch a 9 volt battery to your tongue and it tingles, it's probably good, if you touch a lawnmower spark plug while it's running and your arm shakes, it's running fine, and if you touch a household wire and piss your pants, then it's a 110 line.

[JohnJL]

Originally Posted by Pstallo

Ahh, sorry. That makes sense--I guess it's 12 volts all the time, isn't it.

My electrical experience is limited to the Alabama multimeter--if you touch a 9 volt battery to your tongue and it tingles, it's probably good, if you touch a lawnmower spark plug while it's running and your arm shakes, it's running fine, and if you touch a household wire and piss your pants, then it's a 110 line.

And if you go #2 its 220v?

[Quicksilver]

Originally Posted by javadog

What you meant...



Might be easiest to replace the flasher by reaching through a gauge hole.

What was was really, REALLY meant...

[javadog]

Well, see, the wattage determines the amperage, given the voltage, divided by wwest's IQ, which is more math than I can do.

Maybe it's the impedance. Or the phase. Or the weight.

[Quicksilver]

Originally Posted by Pstallo

Also, I forgot to mention that the seating little pins were offset on the LEDs but were even on the original bulbs, so they wouldn't go in easily. I took a Dremel tool and ground down the uppermost pin a little and then they fit fine.

The reason you had to "ground down the uppermost pin" is you used the wrong type of bulb. The bulb you listed is a replacement for an 1157 which is a 2 filament bulb.

The backup lights use an 1156 which is only a single filament bulb so it doesn't need to be "keyed" with offset pins.
Try this one from the same supplier: http://www.amazon.com/SiriusLED-Bright-Projection-Signal-Brightness/dp/B0105LW41G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449929648&sr=1-1

It is a 35W equivalent and you will need to click the options for 1156 and white.

[will hung]

This thread should help you with your problem:
I solved the LED indicator problem!!

[universeman]

I bought an EP35 and an EP36 and neither work with my SC -- seems there's a missing fourth Common (C) pin.

I think I need an EP26 according to some other threads I've been reading, those are a bit harder to find.

[spoke]

Originally Posted by universeman

I bought an EP35 and an EP36 and neither work with my SC -- seems there's a missing fourth Common (C) pin.

I think I need an EP26 according to some other threads I've been reading, those are a bit harder to find.

What is not working? Pin 31 is ground. Pin 49 connects to 12V and Pin 49a goes to the lights. These 3 are all that is needed to flash the external lights. The K/C/C2 4th pin is usually used to do something with the dash indicators.

EP26 and EP36 are almost identical. Both are available at your FLAPS.

The EP26 that I've purchased from Autozone had the 4th C terminal but it did not connect to anything. I took it apart to verify.

In 914's I've seen the 4th terminal labeled as K, C, and C2. In some, K would connect to ground and C/C2 would connect to 12V when the lights are flashed.