Clutch Adjustment and Pedal Question

[arbita1]

I installed a new clutch, pressure plate, etc. Today I assembled the clutch springs and adjusted. I haven't checked the cable throw yet (i didn't have a helper). But the clutch pedal seems a bit lower to the floor than previously. It is also much softer. Is this to be expected or is something wrong?

[gregwils]

A new clutch is typically softer (easier) to depress than a tired, old unit even more so if you lubed the input shaft and replaced the cable. Getting the pedal height correct is generally just a matter of correct adjustment, if existing cable that assumes your cable is not stretched.

If you have Wayne's 101 book, read everything again and measure precisely. You may even want to start by verifying the pedal end of the cable is adjusted correctly.

Mine was hosed up when I first installed it, but through trial and error, reading and re-reading, it is now excellent.

[Oh Haha]

Adjust the cable and report back.

You may not be moving the clutch enough to have any resistance.

[arbita1]

Will do. I'm a little unclear on one aspect of the adjustment. When you tighten the cable to reduce the gap to 1mm, do you tighten the front nut or rear nut or both on the cable to do this?

[yelcab1]

Adjust the front nut first to tighten up the cable to the first spec.
Adjust the rear nut to bring the gap to 1mm

My preference has been to adjust the final value to much smaller than 1mm because I like to feel the clutch to be tight and not have too much free throw

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by yelcab1

Adjust the front nut first to tighten up the cable to the first spec.
Adjust the rear nut to bring the gap to 1mm

My preference has been to adjust the final value to much smaller than 1mm because I like to feel the clutch to be tight and not have too much free throw

Interesting, I wondered about the "free throw" at 1MM gap. So have you measured what your setting is at?

How long have you driven like this and how did you gear lube look on change?

[yelcab1]

My gap is about half of 1mm. I drove it that way for years with half the free play. I am one of the few guys on this board that did his own 915 rebuild. The main thing that was bad was the reverse idle gear was toast. But once inside, a full rebuild was in order.

The fluid was not any dirtier than any other fluid... but your mileage may vary.

[DRACO A5OG]

Interesting. Thanks YC

[RoninLB]

I was sloppy once and broke the cable to tranny bracket/cable holder on my 1977.

The bracket may break if you don't use both cable nuts for final tightening. Replacement was readily available and cost around $25

A wild guess is that the cable should be replaced if the car has over 100k miles even if still functioning ok. My old cable turned into a spare inside the trunk

[RoninLB]

"Clutch Cable Support"
915-116-613-01-M100
1977-86
$21

[arbita1]

My cable is only about 2 years old. It was replaced by a mechanic.

When you put the hook from the cable onto the spring, do you have to pull the cable with a pair.of plyers to get it to reach? That is what I am having to do.

[E Sully]

The first thing I do is set the gap to 1.2mm without the cable attached to the transmission. Then I hook the cable to the lever arm, followed by connecting the bowden tube to the transmission and adjusting the 2 nuts to bring the gap to 1mm. Then I set the travel to 25mm with a friend working the pedal area using the plate on the wooden floorboard.

[arbita1]

When you hook your cable on, do you need to pull it out to reach?

[arbita1]

This is what I mean.

[schumicat]

yes. it may take a few tries.

make sure when you're done that you can slightly pull up on the pedal. if you can't it is too tight.

Originally Posted by arbita1

When you hook your cable on, do you need to pull it out to reach?

[E Sully]

You are trying to hook it to the loop after you connected the cable to the transmission mounting bracket. You should remove the cable from the mounting bracket, catch the hook to the arm and then connect it to the mounting bracket.

[pete3799]

When the cable is disconnected the clutch pedal will drop.
Wedge something behind the pedal and you'll have an easier time connecting the cable.

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by arbita1

This is what I mean.

Looks pretty rusty.

When installing the new clutch, did you check the bushings/bearings in the cross-shaft and lube for free movement?

Same for the mechanism of the Omega spring, lube the pivot-points.

Looks like you're reusing the old cable. Did you look under the floor board at the pedal cluster?

On the pedal-end, how far is the threaded cable-end sticking out of the clevis?

These parts usually wear out and give problems:
Is the eyelet on the shaft lever still good? Not worn out? Small bushing replaced?

[Arne2]

Related question - the clutch pedal in my '84 Carrera feels as if the return spring is too strong. There is a very pronounced "over-center" feel to the clutch at the top of the travel. I can not pull the pedal back to test for free play as the pedal is always held at the top of travel by the spring pressure. There does appear to be free travel, I can feel by hand that there is no real resistance for the first bit of pedal travel, other than the return spring. I have adjusted the clutch as outlined here (and re-checked again after driving). Is this normal?

[E Sully]

The omega spring assists to give a lighter pedal feel. That might be what you are feeling. Just make sure you have the 1mm gap, 25mm of travel, and that the pivot arm and spring are greased and moving freely.