Aux. Air Regulatory - How to remove ??? - Help

[Jcon]

On cold start my 81SC has to sit and idle (950) for about 2 minutes before it's drivable. Actually you can tell when it's ready because the engine will begin idling at around 1800 -2000 RPM likes it's supposed to when it's first started. From that point in runs great and the idle settles back at 950RPM once the engine warms a little more.

I'm in denile that it's probably the WUR, so I'm checking everything else. There may be a chance that the Aux Air regulator is not opening the way it should at start up. To really check it I need to remove it. How the hell does this thing come out. Do I need to remove the airbox? The Bently manual simply says "remove it"(the AAR). It can't be this difficult!!!! Help


Jeff C
81 SC

[RoninLB]

Whats the problem?

[This message has been edited by RoninLB (edited 10-07-2001).]

[This message has been edited by RoninLB (edited 10-07-2001).]

[Jcon]

Sorry - I would like to remove the Aux. Air regulator and besides the two hose clamps I can't tell what's holding it in there. How do I get this thing out and do I need to remove the airbox to do it.

Thanks

Jeff C

[fred cook]

Jeff,

I just went through the same problem with my 80 911SC. The AAR is actually not too hard to remove. Use the correct screwdriver to unscrew the large vacuum hose clamps, use small flat bladed screwdriver or hooked piece of wire to release the wire "lock" on the 12 v. connector (you should only have to lift the top side of the wire clip) and use a fairly long allen wrench to remove the two screws that hold the AAR base to the block. The two allen screws are slightly aggrevating to get to, but not impossible. Once out, check the resistance of the coil (should be about 25-35 ohms) and make sure that you are getting 12 volts at the connector. I put my AAR in the freezer for about 5 minutes to make it fully open, then plugged the connector back on and turned on the ignition to make sure it was working correctly. It should take about 1-2 minutes to close completely. When you are ready to reinstall the AAR, use a short piece of electrical tape to hold the allen screw on the allen wrench. Once the screw is started threading correctly in the hole, a gentle tug should pull the tape off the screw head.
Start the other screw before tightening the first one. You may find it easier to remove and replace the inside vacuum hose before fastening the AAR to the block. Good luck.

[Jcon]

Fred

Thanks! I found the Allen screws..looks like I'll need a longer wrench to get the second one out.

Did you ever solve your cold start problem, was it the AAR?

Jeff C
81 SC

[john walker's workshop]

wrong tree. it's the WUR. if the WUR doesn't let the engine run rich enough to get it's cold running act together, there will be no fast idle because there is not enough fuel to do it. do the pin adjustment on the WUR. most respond favorably.

[Jcon]

John

Your right, Like I said in my original post I'm in denial about the WUR. The damn things just such an ass pain to adjust.

Thanks for the help.

Jeff C