I didn't say they couldn't I said they didn't want to.

My thoughts exactly, I would find another machine shop!

Ok thansk for all the advise fellas, but i'm kind of stubborn maybe even stupid. I know that its not smart to fix what ain't broke but if I can get the two broken studs out OK with some heat and an extractor then i may just continue on with removing other studs. Slowly, carefully, see how it goes. I'll let you know how it goes either way...

Use the exhaust stud jog kit.......
 

Chris,

If you don't have the exhaust stud jig to use for this job, think twice. And with the engine installed, you are looking for trouble. You could do it, there is no question about it but how well you could get the studs aligned and centered is another question mark. It is not how hard you work but how smart you tackled the job. Good luck.

Tony

There's nothing else to do in Canada this time of year anyway, it's 7 degrees here in upstate NY so I can only imagine what it's like up north. Cabin fever does cloud your judgement.

I believe it is, "Rattle the food dish and you have the most energetic, devoted friend ever!"


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1455812516.jpg
Reminds me...
Time to feed Wrecks "Rex" Rexroth

Thats true, its soo cold up here, ever the sled dogs won't go outside!

I replaced all of mine with my engine in and the car on jack stands.
9 out of 12 studs broke. I used the jig to drill them out and had to time cert a few.
So, it can be done but I wouldn't wish that job on my worst enemy. That said, I'm glad I did it. I took Jacob's advice and went with S.S. studs and copper nuts even though some well respected mechanics advise against S.S. due to dis-similar metals. I've had the headers off several times since with no issues.

You don't know me or my machine shop. You have no idea of my capabilities or my work. How can you make a statement like that?

LOL..... Apparently you don't know Tony either. I said the same thing, find a machine shop that doesn't tell you they "don't want to do it".

It's not that they didn't want to replace the studs they suggested against it just like John Walker. Jezzzzzz you guy's can be a little judgmental somewhat of a pain. Not one of you know what the machine shop that I use is capable of for crying out loud.

Come on Fellas, you know there are Machine Shops that will not work on our parts, like the flywheel for instance.

For some reason, I often hear "BMW and Porsche Owners" are real PITA to do machine work for. I guess most of us are real particular and OCD like, I know I am and I can be a prima donna about my car at times.

Said the guy who's worked on more 911 cylinder heads than most realize. If Craig says leave 'em alone, along with John Walker, take their word for it.

Whatever replacement nuts you use, DO NOT use the deformed lock nut style. There's no reason for these to be locking nuts since they just don't come loose. Plus the locking effect just makes it easier to break a stud in the future. Porsche didn't use lock nuts on the original exhaust. They used plain nuts where there's "easy" access and inhex barrel nuts where there's access holes thru the heat exchanger shrouds.

What KTL said ........

I was taught a long time ago by an old friend I affectionately call Yoda (Steve f/Rennsport).
1. I always try to start with giving the nut a slight turn to tighten. It seems to help. I mean just a smidgen. If it doesn't like it. STOP.
2. Go slow. If the nut comes off without a hitch, SMILE. Some will come out with the stud attached, once again smile.
3. Most of the time you'll either get no movement. Or you'll get about 1/2-3/4 turn then it will stop. This is the critical point. STOP.
4. Some folks stop here and soak the nut with PB Blaster or Deep Creep and come back tomorrow.
5. I just cut to the chase. I too soak the nut with either PB Blaster or Deep Creep. But then I get out the torch and heat the nut till its RED hot. Sometimes the nut only, sometimes nut with stud.

I just did this yesterday on one of my 914 engines I was putting storage.
Box Score:
5 Nuts Only
3 Studs and Nuts

Once again. Yoda thank you for your words of wisdom many years ago.

Not trying to say what is best..but what about this stuff? Been hearing that it works better than pb blaster or kroil
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1455899409.jpg

Ok ok you are all right, i'll replace the two broken studs and just leave the rest alone using regular non locking nuts instead. I'll probably have the motor out and apart next winter anyways so thats a better time to goof around with installing new studs.

Now your making sense! :D

stevej37 - as a total noob at doing this, I used CRC Freeze-off and got 12 out of 12 nuts off.

Here's why I credit the CRC: I had been soaking the nuts in PB and Kroil and Gibb's for weeks. When I started the job, the nuts wouldn't move under any amount of small ratchet pressure (was afraid to use anything more.) Ratchet was hurting my hand I was pushing it so hard. And I was sure I was going to break something. Oh well, nothing ventured...get out the CRC and start freezing. 20 seconds on the first nut, wait 1-2 minutes and then hit it with the ratchet. Amazing, movement right away. Continue for 10 nuts, same easy process. Only 1 stud gave me enough resistance that I needed a breaker bar. Gulp, this is def going to break the stud. More CRC. A little more. Wait. Try to turn. 1/8 turn then it bound up - full stop. Uh-oh. Tighten it back and loosen it again (1/8 turn.) More CRC. Loose!

My engine had been apart in 08 for a rebuild, that's the last I know of based on service records. But the ruts were pretty well rusted.

Bottom line all the soaking didn't seem to do much over several weeks, but the CRC seemed to immediately break them loose. Good luck!

That CRC sounds great. However I'm trying to remove studs not nuts, my nuts are all off, and broke 2 studs in the process. Maybe i'll try to get this stuff and see if it helps remove the two broken studs?

So a little update! I borrowed a stomski tool from a friend to do my two broken studs and it was so damn fun that I cut the other studs off and drilled them out too. Of course I first tried heat, stud extractor, freezing spray, nothing worked. The Stomski tool was so easy! I was sweating about doing this for weeks along with other serious engine work on the car. So it's a huge relief to have this done and the OCD in me is completely satisfied having all new matching exhaust studs. Now I just gotta go get some of them Honda exhaust nuts!