http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459778472.jpg
Not for the every one, but to eliminate future probs, I drilled and tapped the threads to 10mil and use hardend allens. Can torque the heck out of them.

hah wow thats one way to solve the pproblem!

Sorry to bump a really old thread, but figured it was better than making another one :)

I'm going through the same process, was going to change out all of the exhaust studs, this thread has me rethinking that. I have 2 that need replacing, the rest came off clean, maybe I should just leave them.

copper anti seize was mentioned, should that be applied to both the head side and the new hardware? I bought new barrel nuts and copper coated nuts from Pelican. I also bought a dozen new studs, but maybe I'll just replace the 2 bad ones?

Is it advisable to use anything on the gaskets themselves, or just clean up the mating surfaces and install the gaskets dry?

I've posted this before:

When I put my exhaust back on I used these nuts

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w...psb6a6ljvl.jpg

The fit through your heatexchangers, are less prone to seizing and easier to remove than the allenbolts. They are M8 with a 10mm socket head.

http://www.machine7.com/shopimages/p...0-dscf4547.jpg

And I installed the exhaust gaskets dry.

Replacing exhaust studs............
 

There is an easy way to do this, a technique that I learned while rebuilding the engine in my SC. To remove an unbroken stud, double nut the stud and then use a propane torch to heat the head inside the exhaust port next to the stud. It (the head) doesn't have to get cherry red, just hot to the touch. At this point, you should be able to put a wrench or socket on the stud nuts and turn it out. If it doesn't move pretty easily, heat it a little bit hotter. I removed all of the studs from a set of heads this way and did not break a single one! Just remember to use propane and not mapp gas. the mapp gas might get things too hot too soon! Good luck!