Installing new exhaust studs
 

I started some late winter projects this weekend which required removing my entire exhaust. Now I have 2 broken exhaust studs and 1 broken turbo stud, not cool :/ so anyways once I get these babies extracted and cleaned up I think I'll Try to replace all exhaust studs.

So for installing new exhaust studs should I be putting anti seize in the threads or something else? I don't want to run into this every time I drop my exhaust. Hopefully after I drop it this time it'll be the last time for a while.

copper anti-seize

or nickel, nothing containing graphite for the stud/head threads

That is going to be one heck of a job I would leave them in place.

I know I should leave them, but I know I'll feel much better getting this done and having all fresh fasteners.

Unless they are corroded so you can see they have eroded threads I wouldn't mess with them. Just get the bad studs replaced.

As mentioned before: Copper Antiseize. The aluminum based stuff is junk.

But also: Get copper plated exhaust nuts. There is no comparison.
And as the last little detail: Every time you do a valve adjustment take the time to loosen all the exhaust nuts a couple turns and retorque them. They will never seize if they are knocked loose every few thousand miles.

that last tip is a good one.

OP, don;t go looking for trouble is the general consensus when talking exhaust studs. Unless you like pain that is.

+1 on copper antiseize and copper-plated nuts. The other tip is to go with M8 nuts that take a 12mm wrench instead of the standard 13mm. One mm doesn't sound like much, but it's so tight down there that it makes a difference.

exhaust nuts
 

Think I have posted this before. Go to a Honda Dealer (purists chime in here) and get some of their exhaust bolts. 12mm hex with a flange. I used to scrounge thru the junk yards looking for interesting VW stuff, and noticed that there were Hondas there with 180,000 miles and the exhaust manifold nuts looked like they were brand new. So I would take 20 or 30 of them off each visit and filled up a bin for use on my VW engines. Simply put, they don't seem to ever rust. See pic of nuts with probably 150K miles.
Bob Bhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1455672740.jpg

the copper nuts for our exhaust have the m8 thread and take a 12mm socket.
leave them alone unless they break or are pulling out of the head. if you have to replace a stud, get the drill guide tool because they wont screw out

Ok thanks for the tips and advice, maybe I will leave most of them as is.

I went through this anguish not that long ago and going against the advice given by forum members I went ahead and replaced all my studs. I had three casualties during the removal but bought the Stomski kit to facilitate with the broken studs.

I certainly do not miss going through that whole riga-ma-role.

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL38.../403387581.jpg

http://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL38.../403387579.jpg

Regards,

What's that about sleeping dogs?

If the heads were off the engine that would be a different situation but on the engine and in the car you're asking for trouble.

Copper anti-seize. Just a drop will do ya.

Get a removal tool. Stomski is nice. I got one from A Quiet Boom here on Pelican, it worked great! Don't be scared to do this job. Its a nice piece of mind kind of feeling when its done knowing you have all new hardware installed. JUST GO SLOW!!!

- Steve

Don't break something that's not broken....

Wait until it needs a valve job and have all of the studs replaced by the machine shop... :D

I've sent many heads to a local machine shop and they didn't want to do it.

Yea don't poke the bear!

Exhaust studs......
 

Gomez,

You should have brought your cylinder heads to a more capable machine shop. Wondering how they did your valve seats and guides if they can not handle exhaust studs (?).

Tony

good point