Need help with Tarett sway bar settings

[seebobgo]

Elephant street track restoration package. 22 and 30 torsion bars on my G50. Bilstein sports, Re 11's
My bars are set about half way in the rear and front and I get a little push.
I'm thinking about loosening up the front 1/4 off full soft.
Anyone have the set up and can share your settings?

[Driven97]

Try / test / repeat.

Don't discount tires pressures as a tuning tool either.

[seebobgo]

Originally Posted by Driven97

Try / test / repeat.

Don't discount tires pressures as a tuning tool either.

Last car was a 2002 Zo6. The 911 is like a total reverse.
So, Maybe I should start over again full soft all around?

[0396]

Originally Posted by Driven97

Try / test / repeat.

Don't discount tires pressures as a tuning tool either.

Sometimes the simple things get over looked.
Test / test ...

[Trackrash]

You can dial out the push by softening the front sway. A little bit goes a long way.

The big question is, how are you driving the car? A little push may not be a bad thing. If you are autocrossing, then maybe you don't want any push at all. On the street, it's a different story.

Not too many 911 drivers want a loose car, especially on the street.

911s may show noticeable handling changes by adjusting the tire pressures, the shock settings, or in subtle alignment changes. Be careful about making large changes with the sways.

[seebobgo]

Originally Posted by Trackrash

You can dial out the push by softening the front sway. A little bit goes a long way.

The big question is, how are you driving the car? A little push may not be a bad thing. If you are autocrossing, then maybe you don't want any push at all. On the street, it's a different story.

Not too many 911 drivers want a loose car, especially on the street.

911s may show noticeable handling changes by adjusting the tire pressures, the shock settings, or in subtle alignment changes. Be careful about making large changes with the sways.

Right on...I was thinking the front is to tight as my initial post.
I'm sorting it out on back roads for a track day.
Cold re11's 28 front 31 rear. Not much roll over.
I will take your advise!

[tshebib]

I have a similar setup with 22mm Tarrets, 22/31, rebel bushings, bilsteins, etc. I ended up with fronts half way and rears full stiff for track duty. BTW RE-11's work best at 32 HOT. Cold would end up around 24-26lbs.

[seebobgo]

AH HUH...So instead of loosening the front, Tighten up the rear. I want to thank you for that

[Flieger]

My two main reasons for removing my sway bars was to gain ground clearance and to prevent the possibility of the mounts tearing out of the chassis. I've had it happen once on the passenger side but my fuel pump is right above the sway bar mount on the driver side (1971) and WEVO mounts wouldn't be an option.

By the way, I have the RR bushings.

[winders]

Originally Posted by seebobgo

AH HUH...So instead of loosening the front, Tighten up the rear. I want to thank you for that

Doing either would have a similar effect on roll couple distribution which is what needs to change to alter chassis balance. For a street driven car with your torsion bar setup, I would lean toward softening the front.

Also, a little does not go a long way. I would soften the front by at least 1/2 inch. If the push is bad, I might even go 3/4 inch. You want to make a big enough change to make a real difference. Just be careful when you first drive the car. Once you get close to the chassis balance you want, make smaller changes until you get where you want.

[seebobgo]

Originally Posted by winders

Doing either would have a similar effect on roll couple distribution which is what needs to change to alter chassis balance. For a street driven car with your torsion bar setup, I would lean toward softening the front.

Also, a little does not go a long way. I would soften the front by at least 1/2 inch. If the push is bad, I might even go 3/4 inch. You want to make a big enough change to make a real difference. Just be careful when you first drive the car. Once you get close to the chassis balance you want, make smaller changes until you get where you want.

All of these tips gives me a better idea of how to set these cars up.
Thanks winders

[Driven97]

Also keep in mind that there is a such thing as going too soft and going too firm.

These cars have McStrut front ends that have very little camber gain. If you're running little static camber, and have the car lowered, you can outroll the camber gain. Lowering drops the roll center, which makes the car roll more. The car leans more, putting the tire at an unfavorable angle. That equals push. In this case, actually making the front bar stiffer could increase steady state front grip. Even though it's counter intuitive to every tuning chart.

On the flip side, the firmer you go with sway bar, the less independence you have in your suspension because you're tying the right and left together that much firmer. Single wheel bumps, rough road handling, and ride all suffer. And since swaybars add spring rate, but just in roll, it's more difficult to tune the shocks for optimal performance.

Most people will say to tune the car with springs, and use swaybars sparingly as "seasoning." They're quick and easy to adjust for changing conditions. For a while, Racing Beat was tuning Mazdas with soft springs / tons of bar, and it was making it to production cars like the MP3 and Mazdaspeed Protege. I'm somewhere in between. I AX, so I like a lot of front bar for the lateral response, while running a slightly softer front spring for more forgiving braking bite. I keep going more spring in the rear, can't get enough. I've got a pretty big sway out back still, which can affect power down (a rear sway "lifts" the inside wheel) that I'll be experimenting with going smaller or maybe ditching the rear entirely.

Again, the only way to make real improvements is to get scientific. Really pay attention to what the car is doing in all phases of a corner: in transition, at entry, mid-corner, corner exit. Try different techniques to find out what is driver induced, many perceived handling issues are driver error. Take notes. Try things. Make large changes so you get a feel for what each adjustment does. Change tire pressures. Tweak alignment settings. Test, test, test. There's no shortcut, no easy button. You can't just ask on a forum what the "best" is. No car will ever be perfect. The only question is what level of "good enough" is good enough for your standards.

The good news is, all that playing around is a lot of fun, and it's one heck of a self-taught class. Good luck.